Squeaky steering wheel resolution
01-29-2009, 03:46 AM
#11
Senior Members
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 535dA M-Sport
Carbon Black
Nasca Black leather
AFS
Comfort Access
Moonroof
Active seat vent
Xenon
Navi Prof.
Night Vision
HUD
High Gloss Shadow Line
Originally Posted by mini_me' post='780063' date='Jan 29 2009, 01:43 PM
I try not to but currently I drive both types on a daily basis...
Btw, then you will also notice the advantage in handling over a FWD car!
01-29-2009, 09:05 AM
#13
Senior Members
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 535dA M-Sport
Carbon Black
Nasca Black leather
AFS
Comfort Access
Moonroof
Active seat vent
Xenon
Navi Prof.
Night Vision
HUD
High Gloss Shadow Line
Originally Posted by mini_me' post='780178' date='Jan 29 2009, 06:07 PM
Dunlop SP Sport Winter RFT tires.
About 6mm profile depth and DOT 1104
About 6mm profile depth and DOT 1104
Ok, so you're running Winter tyres. Those also provide a different road feel.
DOT 1104 means that the tires are produced almost 5 years ago (week 11 in 2004), so they are early generation RFT's. I think you're problem will be solved after changing the tires. If not, the car will drive at least a lot better! Changing to regular tyres will give you a whole different car!
01-29-2009, 09:36 AM
#14
Members
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LW78' post='780235' date='Jan 29 2009, 07:05 PM
Ok, so you're running Winter tyres. Those also provide a different road feel.
DOT 1104 means that the tires are produced almost 5 years ago (week 11 in 2004), so they are early generation RFT's. I think you're problem will be solved after changing the tires. If not, the car will drive at least a lot better! Changing to regular tyres will give you a whole different car!
DOT 1104 means that the tires are produced almost 5 years ago (week 11 in 2004), so they are early generation RFT's. I think you're problem will be solved after changing the tires. If not, the car will drive at least a lot better! Changing to regular tyres will give you a whole different car!
01-29-2009, 09:57 AM
#15
Contributors
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by porsche911targa' post='778403' date='Jan 27 2009, 12:13 PM
Hi,
Just wanted to share my experience in the hopes that it would help the membership with future issues:
A while ago, my 2006 E60 developed a squeak in the steering wheel when turning either left or right. It sounded to me like when rubber expands and rubs up against something solid; squeaky rubber.
I took it to my excellent dealer who confirmed the squeak even with the engine off. They wrote that SIB 32 17 08 applied to the situation and tried a bunch of things that did not work. Ultimately, they submitted PUMA case for possible steering rack replacement.
PUMA case replied with complete flush of power steering system and bleeding procedure.
This is what they did (written word for word from invoice)
"Per PUMA case, removed return line to P/S reservoir and flushed P/S system new Penticin till pure clean Penticin was flushed. A) Per outlined bleeding procedure replaced power steering reservoir containing P/S filter. Replenished complete power system.
Then performed extended bleeding procedure outlined in the PUMA case by running engine at 2500RPM and going lock to lock with brake pedal depressed until P/S steering fluid obtained 105 deg C. then let brake pedal go and turned steering lock to lock 20 times. This procedure was completed 2 more times. This procedure was successful with no more squeaking from steering column. Even when vehicle sat for 2 hours and retested. Tested OK."
Only had the car back for one day and so far there are no squeaks. I will monitor this and will report an update to the membership in about a month or so, if desired.
I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this in the past and, if it was resolved the same way, did it it fix the problem permanently or is this a patch that will last long enough until I run out of warranty? The only thing that bothers me is that the dealer was able to duplicate this even with the engine off, so I don't fully undersatnd how the procedure above worked.
To the technical geniuses here (I.E. the moderators) why do you think that this procedure would eliminate a problem that sounded like a physical rubber something was rubbing against something else?
To BMW, if this resolves the problem, you guys are geniuses. To my dealer, FMW of Natick, you guys are simply the best. Thanks for working hard and always making sure that this picky customer leaves with a smile on his face. What's up with the crappy Enterprise rentals, though?
If the above procedure will help even one member I will be very happy.
Just wanted to share my experience in the hopes that it would help the membership with future issues:
A while ago, my 2006 E60 developed a squeak in the steering wheel when turning either left or right. It sounded to me like when rubber expands and rubs up against something solid; squeaky rubber.
I took it to my excellent dealer who confirmed the squeak even with the engine off. They wrote that SIB 32 17 08 applied to the situation and tried a bunch of things that did not work. Ultimately, they submitted PUMA case for possible steering rack replacement.
PUMA case replied with complete flush of power steering system and bleeding procedure.
This is what they did (written word for word from invoice)
"Per PUMA case, removed return line to P/S reservoir and flushed P/S system new Penticin till pure clean Penticin was flushed. A) Per outlined bleeding procedure replaced power steering reservoir containing P/S filter. Replenished complete power system.
Then performed extended bleeding procedure outlined in the PUMA case by running engine at 2500RPM and going lock to lock with brake pedal depressed until P/S steering fluid obtained 105 deg C. then let brake pedal go and turned steering lock to lock 20 times. This procedure was completed 2 more times. This procedure was successful with no more squeaking from steering column. Even when vehicle sat for 2 hours and retested. Tested OK."Only had the car back for one day and so far there are no squeaks. I will monitor this and will report an update to the membership in about a month or so, if desired.
I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this in the past and, if it was resolved the same way, did it it fix the problem permanently or is this a patch that will last long enough until I run out of warranty? The only thing that bothers me is that the dealer was able to duplicate this even with the engine off, so I don't fully undersatnd how the procedure above worked.
To the technical geniuses here (I.E. the moderators) why do you think that this procedure would eliminate a problem that sounded like a physical rubber something was rubbing against something else?
To BMW, if this resolves the problem, you guys are geniuses. To my dealer, FMW of Natick, you guys are simply the best. Thanks for working hard and always making sure that this picky customer leaves with a smile on his face. What's up with the crappy Enterprise rentals, though?
If the above procedure will help even one member I will be very happy.
01-29-2009, 10:27 AM
#17
Members
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Porthcawl, UK
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for finding my old thread 
For the record, the new steering rack definitely fixed the problem - no squeaks or whines since.
Maybe flushing the fluid sorts out the problem before the rack gets knackered? There was no messing about with mine - it went in to the dealer with what I'd call a mild irritating noise and I received the phone call to tell me they'd condemned it
For the record, the new steering rack definitely fixed the problem - no squeaks or whines since.
Maybe flushing the fluid sorts out the problem before the rack gets knackered? There was no messing about with mine - it went in to the dealer with what I'd call a mild irritating noise and I received the phone call to tell me they'd condemned it
01-29-2009, 11:44 AM
#18
Contributors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: 2006 525XI, Jet black on Dakota beige. Premium and winter packages. I consider myself a purist and intend to keep my car absolutely stock and shiny.
2008 328I Convertible, Sapphire black on beige interior. Premium package, NAV, iPod adapter.
Retired: 2002 325I, Titanium silver on black leather. Premium package. Absolutely stock and proud of it.
Originally Posted by twh' post='780292' date='Jan 29 2009, 02:08 PM
I still don't understand how P/S fluid can cause a whine.......
01-30-2009, 01:27 AM
#19
Members
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
I had a similar procedure done on my 2005, E60. Experienced the same noise. I could also feel it in the steering wheel.
What they actually did was going lock to lock with the steering wheel while monitoring the temperature in the steering fluid reservoir, stopping at 90 degrees Celsius.
The explanation for this was that the spindle is hollow. The increase in temperature and pressure causes the hydraulic fluid to rise and thereby rinsing and lubricating the spindle.
The noise disappeared for three months, and, as you may have guessed, has now returned.
I didn't quite like this procedure. Hydraulic oil is designed for pressure and contains detergents. It's never used for lubrication.
I found this DIY on Bimmerforum. Hope you find it helpful.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=245961
Regards Knut L., Norway
I had a similar procedure done on my 2005, E60. Experienced the same noise. I could also feel it in the steering wheel.
What they actually did was going lock to lock with the steering wheel while monitoring the temperature in the steering fluid reservoir, stopping at 90 degrees Celsius.
The explanation for this was that the spindle is hollow. The increase in temperature and pressure causes the hydraulic fluid to rise and thereby rinsing and lubricating the spindle.
The noise disappeared for three months, and, as you may have guessed, has now returned.
I didn't quite like this procedure. Hydraulic oil is designed for pressure and contains detergents. It's never used for lubrication.
I found this DIY on Bimmerforum. Hope you find it helpful.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=245961
Regards Knut L., Norway
01-30-2009, 08:12 AM
#20
Contributors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: 2006 525XI, Jet black on Dakota beige. Premium and winter packages. I consider myself a purist and intend to keep my car absolutely stock and shiny.
2008 328I Convertible, Sapphire black on beige interior. Premium package, NAV, iPod adapter.
Retired: 2002 325I, Titanium silver on black leather. Premium package. Absolutely stock and proud of it.
Originally Posted by Howitzer' post='780287' date='Jan 29 2009, 01:57 PM
I had this same issue on my 2004 530i. I took it to the dealer, they performed the same type of job and it was covered under my CPO. Its a known defect.
Thanks