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Rear License Plate Bulb Light

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Old 06-07-2012, 06:53 PM
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Noticed that the front bulb headlight went out on passenger side & the rear passenger side license plate bulb.

1) changed the headlight d1s bulb. headlights work
2) removed passenger side license plate RDASH, tested in the other side (IT WORKS, both RDASH lamps work)
3) purchased new MTECH license plate lamps bulb anyways. Plugged it in only driver side works.
4) passenger side lamp does not work with MTECH or the RDASH. NOthing wrong with the lamps bulbs


5) no power going to passenger side rear license plate wire?

Last edited by code37; 09-03-2013 at 04:18 PM.
Old 09-01-2013, 09:39 AM
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more than likely your wiring may have cut. the wires that run along the trunk hinge bend and eventually crack and break.
Old 09-03-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by turboawd
more than likely your wiring may have cut. the wires that run along the trunk hinge bend and eventually crack and break.
any info on how to access that area, perhaps a diagram or a link to anyone who has attacked this problem?
Old 09-03-2013, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by code37
any info on how to access that area, perhaps a diagram or a link to anyone who has attacked this problem?
there's a few pictures in this thread:
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...closed-114336/

basically remove the carpet panel on the passenger side of the trunk, and you'll see the wiring going to the trunk hinge.
Old 09-08-2013, 07:06 PM
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Post Attacking the Hinge

1. Open Passenger Side Compartment
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2. Lift the spare tire panel, after removing the pins/screws, pull the side panel towards you
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3. Remove the other side panel for better view and access. Follow the hinge to the rear
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4. Remove the black rubber gasket/tube from hinge (i stripped the black tape first, but u can do either order) take a look at which wire is damaged
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5.My damaged wires
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6.Re-Attach the wires and do a test check to see if vehicle operates as normal and repair as you deem neccessary.

TIPS: Repairing Electrical Wiring - Popular Mechanics
Never use solid wire. Solid wire is for stationary household use; the vibration in your car or truck will eventually break it. Use automotive-grade stranded wire, not pieces salvaged from an old extension cord. You'll need to find some automotive-grade wire of the same gauge as the wiring you're replacing. Try to follow the color codes on the factory wiring harness if possible, because in two or five years you may very well be tearing back into your repair-and there's nothing more daunting than troubleshooting a bundle of a half-dozen or more wires that are all the same color. At least use tags that identify the circuit and the original wire color.
Never use wire nuts. They, too, are intended for stationary wiring and will unscrew themselves--usually late at night on a bad stretch of road far from cellphone coverage.
Never use electrical tape to make a splice on automotive wiring. The extremes of heat and moisture degrade the adhesive, and the tape will unwind.

Last edited by code37; 09-08-2013 at 08:21 PM.
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