Originally Posted by Znod' post='236551

I probably didn't make myself clear in previous post.My car always starts in first after a complete stop in D or DS.Only if I am in Manual mode and don't manually downshift and come to a complete stop. It then starts in M3 if I start in a normal non agressive manner.

I hope you have good results after your trip to the dealer.It would be nice if the reset solved your power problem.Looking forward to your times on the "new thread".

Originally Posted by grogan545' post='236562' date='Feb 7 2006, 11:04 PM

I am tired and screwed up my last 2 posts on your new thread,sorry.

Originally Posted by Znod' post='236280

cobradav: you're correct it is for the E90 RAD, and doesn't pertain to our discussion here.


NOTE: The amount of speedometer advance has no effect on recording of accumulated mileage in the odometer display. The odometer records total mileage digitally and does not incorporate any "advance" tolerances."

So yeah BMW "pads" the speedo reading to account for variables.

Originally Posted by cobradav' post='236707' date='Feb 8 2006, 09:40 AM

Good that gives me some level of feel for their tolerance on looking into performance issues and what I might want to divulge, even though I have to this ppoint done nothing to the car itself. My dealer is pretty small so I am not sure how many "enthusists" might be buried in the shop, although there is one M3 always there in the shop area.

Good info on both, thanks

Originally Posted by Znod' post='234533' date='Feb 4 2006, 08:23 AM

Below are two verions of a hidden-menu procedure that appear to be pertinent to what I want to do. I have rewritten both in minor ways for clarity.

The two versions are different. Has anyone used either or a combination of both to get to the accurate speedo and tach? If so, can you, using the steps below, help me identify a procedure that works for sure on the 545i. All help greatly appreciated. And, to your knowledge has anyone ever "gotten into trouble" trying to get these sorts of procedures to work.

Version 1:
1. Hold down the miles reset button, turn the key to first position, and immediately release the button. (This procedure won't work for me unless I can start the car later without disturbing what is displayed. I presume that I can do so.)
2. You will see a small display where the time/temp etc. usually appears.
3. Sequential presses of the button displays the numbers of a menu--1, 2, 3, 4, 5 etc., up to 21.
4. Add up the last 5 digits of your VIN.
5. Go to position 19 on the menu and wait a second or two.
6. Under lock you will see a position to enter the calculated number which you do by sequential presses of the button.
7. Once you get to your calculated number stop pressing the button and wait.
8. The menu will go back to position 1.
9. Now toggle through to say position 7.
10. Once you get there wait a couple of seconds and you will then see 7.1.
11. The next press shows 7.2, etc. etc.
12. You will see that "it" displays, rpm, fuel consumption, battery voltage, current speed, core temp. etc. etc. etc.

Version 2:
1. While car is on, press the mileage reset button, and hold it for 15 seconds. (This procedure obviously would work for me since the car is started at this point.)
2. Now you will have menu options from 01 to 21.
3. Use the milage button or the bottom button on the turn signal--pressing the button for 5 seconds to open the 01 Identification menu.
4. Sum the last 5 digits of your VIN.
5. Press the Button (1 sec. intervals) to get to option 19--UNLOCKING.
6. Press and hold the button for 5 seconds to get to execute that menu option.
7. Now press the button (1 sec intervals) to get to the value you computed from your VIN
8. Once the number is displayed, hold the button in for 5 seconds to get back to the main menu.
9. Now all the options on the menu will work (unlocked!)
From above:
9. Once you get to your calculated number stop pressing the button and wait. (This critical step is different than the prior #9. Any thoughts?)
10. The menu will go back to position 1.
11. Now toggle through to say position 7.
12. Once you get there wait a couple of seconds and you will then see 7.1.
13. The next press shows 7.2, etc. etc.
14. You will see that "it" displays, rpm, fuel consumption, battery voltage, current speed, core temp. etc. etc. etc.

The options let you see a lot of sensor information--speed of vehicle (digital readout that is 100% accurate, but in km/h), true tank capacity, .... Also under the Identification menu you can scroll down to MASTER and find out what version of software your car has.

To Enter and Exit menus you hold for 5 seconds; to scroll down you hold for 1 second; to exit the main menu completely hold for 15 seconds. You do not need to unlock the computer next time. It will always be unlocked until you lock it or your dealer locks it.

Originally Posted by cobradav' post='234248' date='Feb 3 2006, 03:02 PM

Could it be that the speedometer is calibrated in Km/H and the dial we see for MPH is merely overlayed, while speedo is not calibrated for MPH?

No, I do not believe that is the case. Car mfrs as a group are making their speedos read high in nearly all countries that I am aware of and in some cases at the request of the respective government traffic safety agency irrespective of km or mph.

Originally Posted by MattAu' post='438184' date='Jun 21 2007, 02:45 PM

It would appear that there is a 4-6% margin of error. That's high isn't it?

Originally Posted by iversonm' post='438060' date='Jun 21 2007, 12:00 AM

No, it is mostly confined to European makes, due to regulations stipulating that your speedometer can never read low, even with tire wear or wheel changes. They typically read 3-5% high.

Japanese cars tend to read slightly high, but not to the extent of the Europeans, aout 1-3% high.

US speedometers read the correct reading, +/-1%.

Your tachometer should be accurate, although you won't get a ticket if it was wrong.