I am stuck! cannot install Valve Cover 2005 BMW 545i e60
08-12-2014, 05:13 PM
#11
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The indy does not have the parts yet.....I may ask him to try fitting the existing. I know he will give me crap.....the new cover is 450+ taxes!!!
08-12-2014, 06:58 PM
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Note: The Valvetronic motor must first be removed in order to remove the cylinder head cover. The eccentric shaft must be in the minimum lift position and the motor must be wound out from the eccentric shaft. The worm gear could otherwise be damaged when separating the worm shaft and the worm wheel as the eccentric shaft springs back (due to the torque compensation spring).
If it is not possible to remove the motor, due to mechanical failure or sticking, the worm shaft can be moved using an Allen key to release the motor. A hole must be drilled in the rear plastic motor cover in order to access the motor shaft (worm shaft) using the Allen key. The motor can then no longer be used.
What does this mean in simple terms? Have anyone removed it without damage?
Thanks
If it is not possible to remove the motor, due to mechanical failure or sticking, the worm shaft can be moved using an Allen key to release the motor. A hole must be drilled in the rear plastic motor cover in order to access the motor shaft (worm shaft) using the Allen key. The motor can then no longer be used.
What does this mean in simple terms? Have anyone removed it without damage?
Thanks
08-12-2014, 07:41 PM
#13
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Please be very careful when torquing the bolts that hold the covers. They are made of titanium and can be snapped off if over torqued. I believe the rate is 35 fp My indi torques them to 15fb, no problems.
08-13-2014, 08:10 AM
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Hi Turboawd - yes I had read this. To remove the VVT I unscrewed the 4 bolts....the motor popped out by 1/2 an inch, then I gently rotated it counter clockwise until it came out by itself. do you think this has anything to do with the cover not sitting back properly?
08-13-2014, 08:48 AM
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got it!! I was expecting these bolts to be titatnium or Al, but they stick with a magnet...suggesting these is some ferrous elements into it. Anyways, I was careful.
08-13-2014, 09:17 AM
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Pretty sure that BMW has used aluminum bolts with magnesium value cover in the early N52's and steel bolts with plastic valve covers. The torque values are different also as I recall.
08-18-2014, 07:25 AM
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just a quick update - My indy was able to put it all back together. Charged me 6 hours of work.
it looks ok, but getting some active steering fault codes (I will post in a separate thread).
Lesson learned - this job on a e60 V8 is very tough. This was my first time DIY, Maybe I should not have gone big like this. Too much hassle if you need to show up at work on a Monday and need the car for it. Pay for it if you can!!
it looks ok, but getting some active steering fault codes (I will post in a separate thread).
Lesson learned - this job on a e60 V8 is very tough. This was my first time DIY, Maybe I should not have gone big like this. Too much hassle if you need to show up at work on a Monday and need the car for it. Pay for it if you can!!
08-18-2014, 05:44 PM
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Edit : oops !! ,, just noticed the second page didn't realize u took it to a shop ..
Last edited by H F; 08-18-2014 at 05:50 PM.
07-22-2023, 03:15 PM
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Reassembled with gap
Reviving an old thread. I just did this job on my n62. I left the spark plug tube gap hoping it would sit from vibrations/heat cycles (optimistic).
Has anyone found a way to get the tubes to seat perfectly?
I have a pretty small gap but i notice a little oil in the spark plug chamber.
Has anyone found a way to get the tubes to seat perfectly?
I have a pretty small gap but i notice a little oil in the spark plug chamber.
07-29-2023, 03:42 AM
#20
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Are you using BMW OEM Spark Plug Tubes?
I'm still banging around in my E60 545i with 278,000 miles and its still running smooth. I just did bank 2 valve covers... I had no issue with spark tube and gap. Did you clean off the valve cover surface? I like to use mineral spirits(poured onto a rag) for cleaning metal/aluminum surfaces If I don't have brake cleaner. I used the original BMW spark plug tube because I got burned with the FEBI tubes in the past. I made sure I pushed each spark plug tube down until is sat snug. You'll feel them go down and then seat. The Febi tubes never really sat right for me. Once the spark plug tubes are seated correctly my valve cover went on with no issue. I made sure the path was clear and once I got the valve on I pushed in with my hand using all(most) my weight(200 lbs). Then hand tighten the corner bolts just to keep the valve cover in place and down. When I torqued down the VC bolts I worked from the inside and then out. Not sure how you tighten the VC bolts but they are a bitch trying to do them by hand...I used my trusty wireless ratchet tool which is able to fit into tight spots and zipped down every bolt. All you need is 10NM on those VC bolts. Just make sure you got every bolt.
What brand of spark plug tube did you use?
What brand of spark plug tube did you use?
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