How do you determine which CA handle is causing the drain???
05-27-2012, 03:01 PM
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Hello, I been having high battery drain error message with my 08 550i after its park for more then 3 days. Many members suggest it's Comfort Access related so I decided to unplugged the CA fuse and sure enough my high battery drain error is gone.
Now I know it's CA related and its probably one of the handle carrier. How can I determine which handle is causing the drain?
Now I know it's CA related and its probably one of the handle carrier. How can I determine which handle is causing the drain?
05-27-2012, 03:52 PM
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Tough project unless you have some bmw software to diagnose that. I sure wouldn't want to be taking apart door panels and unplugging etc. Get a bmw cable and software will tell you exaclty which one is giving an issue.
05-27-2012, 05:26 PM
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Actually I took my car to a mechanic friend that works at a BMW dealer and he said electric drain is very hard to find, even with BMW software he couldn't pin point what was cause the drain right away, he said would take few days when he have free time. In the mean time I decided to pull the fuse to the CA and that stop the drain....He mention taking door panel off and disconnecting CA to each door and plugging it back in one at a time...that's very time consuming and a lot of work..wondering if anybody can offer faster, easier solution
05-27-2012, 06:10 PM
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Actually I took my car to a mechanic friend that works at a BMW dealer and he said electric drain is very hard to find, even with BMW software he couldn't pin point what was cause the drain right away, he said would take few days when he have free time. In the mean time I decided to pull the fuse to the CA and that stop the drain....He mention taking door panel off and disconnecting CA to each door and plugging it back in one at a time...that's very time consuming and a lot of work..wondering if anybody can offer faster, easier solution
then your friend is not trained on using the software tools properly or is not high up enough in the food chain to be allowed to use the tools others tech use. actually it's quite easy to find. circuits are opened or closed and if there are any inconsistencies, they will store errors. extremely easy to find. will be stored in information memory. but like he said is what I mentioned in my first post. this is the manual way to do it. Can't you just try the CA features on all handles and see if you find any issues with them not working properly? I think the problem would be that one of them doesn't let your car sleep and if that be the case and you do them manually you have to unplug one and see if car will sleep and so on and so on. I think it's like 20 min or so before car sleeps. That's an old school way to do it and there are easier ways.
12-23-2012, 11:14 AM
#5
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I'm having a similar issue with battery drain. I noticed something weird once last summer - when I hit the door handle with the pressure washer (small electric washer, not very high power) it would cause the car to lock and unlock. I mentioned it to the dealer, but they were no help (I've been complaining about the battery drain problem for over a year now).
They say it's my driving profile, and refused to do any diagnosis. They sold me a new battery last winter, but it doesn't hold a charge, especially when cold. They insist the battery isn't bad (not that they tested it), but that it's either because my rear defroster isn't working (this is only recent, in the past month), or the short in my DRL's is causing it (CPO won't fix that either - wiring is fried leading into the headlamp). I have the DRL's turned off via the menu (been that way over a year now). I can't see why the defroster would matter if it's not turned on, nor are the DRL's turned on. The rear glass and hatch otherwise work as designed.
So I have to plug my car in every night to the battery charger like a POS plug-in hybrid. If I leave home with a full charge, drive a 30 mile round trip, with a 3 hour stop, and return home, the charger says the battery is only 65% when I get home. This is in roughly 10º F weather.
So, I have the hose setting off the comfort access, the short in the DRL, and most recently, a crack in the defroster wiring (probably have to take the hatch apart, presume this is in the hinge wiring).
Any thoughts?
As much as I love driving this car, I'm grossly disappointed with the joke of a CPO warranty and all the electrical gremlins (I've also had turbos replaced at 60k, and 3 HPFP's now). I just passed 100k, so my CPO warranty is now expired too...
They say it's my driving profile, and refused to do any diagnosis. They sold me a new battery last winter, but it doesn't hold a charge, especially when cold. They insist the battery isn't bad (not that they tested it), but that it's either because my rear defroster isn't working (this is only recent, in the past month), or the short in my DRL's is causing it (CPO won't fix that either - wiring is fried leading into the headlamp). I have the DRL's turned off via the menu (been that way over a year now). I can't see why the defroster would matter if it's not turned on, nor are the DRL's turned on. The rear glass and hatch otherwise work as designed.
So I have to plug my car in every night to the battery charger like a POS plug-in hybrid. If I leave home with a full charge, drive a 30 mile round trip, with a 3 hour stop, and return home, the charger says the battery is only 65% when I get home. This is in roughly 10º F weather.
So, I have the hose setting off the comfort access, the short in the DRL, and most recently, a crack in the defroster wiring (probably have to take the hatch apart, presume this is in the hinge wiring).
Any thoughts?
As much as I love driving this car, I'm grossly disappointed with the joke of a CPO warranty and all the electrical gremlins (I've also had turbos replaced at 60k, and 3 HPFP's now). I just passed 100k, so my CPO warranty is now expired too...
Last edited by Sarge; 12-23-2012 at 11:29 AM.
12-23-2012, 04:36 PM
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My Ride: 2012 535i X-driveSpace Grey/Black Dakota, Fineline Anthracite Trim; Executive Package (Rear View, Lumbar, Nav, Voice, SIRIUS, HiFi Pro) Technology Package (Hi Beam Assist, Lane Departure, Blind Spot Detection, Surround View) BMW Apps (Apps, Smart Pho
Model Year: 2012
It sounds like you have a lot of problems.
Regarding the car washing issue. First, this is a non-issue. Most Comfort Access cars have this 'problem'. The water, even from a hose, will cause the doors to lock and unlock if the key fob is close by. Remove the fob further away and it will stop. Both my retired E60 and my current F10 do the same thing. The water is simply a substitute for anything touching the handles.That being said it is annoying when you wash the car.
Regarding the car washing issue. First, this is a non-issue. Most Comfort Access cars have this 'problem'. The water, even from a hose, will cause the doors to lock and unlock if the key fob is close by. Remove the fob further away and it will stop. Both my retired E60 and my current F10 do the same thing. The water is simply a substitute for anything touching the handles.That being said it is annoying when you wash the car.
12-25-2012, 08:33 AM
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It sounds like you have a lot of problems.
Regarding the car washing issue. First, this is a non-issue. Most Comfort Access cars have this 'problem'. The water, even from a hose, will cause the doors to lock and unlock if the key fob is close by. Remove the fob further away and it will stop. Both my retired E60 and my current F10 do the same thing. The water is simply a substitute for anything touching the handles.That being said it is annoying when you wash the car.
Regarding the car washing issue. First, this is a non-issue. Most Comfort Access cars have this 'problem'. The water, even from a hose, will cause the doors to lock and unlock if the key fob is close by. Remove the fob further away and it will stop. Both my retired E60 and my current F10 do the same thing. The water is simply a substitute for anything touching the handles.That being said it is annoying when you wash the car.
12-26-2012, 08:57 PM
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I'm having a similar issue with battery drain. I noticed something weird once last summer - when I hit the door handle with the pressure washer (small electric washer, not very high power) it would cause the car to lock and unlock. I mentioned it to the dealer, but they were no help (I've been complaining about the battery drain problem for over a year now).
They say it's my driving profile, and refused to do any diagnosis. They sold me a new battery last winter, but it doesn't hold a charge, especially when cold. They insist the battery isn't bad (not that they tested it), but that it's either because my rear defroster isn't working (this is only recent, in the past month), or the short in my DRL's is causing it (CPO won't fix that either - wiring is fried leading into the headlamp). I have the DRL's turned off via the menu (been that way over a year now). I can't see why the defroster would matter if it's not turned on, nor are the DRL's turned on. The rear glass and hatch otherwise work as designed.
So I have to plug my car in every night to the battery charger like a POS plug-in hybrid. If I leave home with a full charge, drive a 30 mile round trip, with a 3 hour stop, and return home, the charger says the battery is only 65% when I get home. This is in roughly 10º F weather.
So, I have the hose setting off the comfort access, the short in the DRL, and most recently, a crack in the defroster wiring (probably have to take the hatch apart, presume this is in the hinge wiring).
Any thoughts?
As much as I love driving this car, I'm grossly disappointed with the joke of a CPO warranty and all the electrical gremlins (I've also had turbos replaced at 60k, and 3 HPFP's now). I just passed 100k, so my CPO warranty is now expired too...
They say it's my driving profile, and refused to do any diagnosis. They sold me a new battery last winter, but it doesn't hold a charge, especially when cold. They insist the battery isn't bad (not that they tested it), but that it's either because my rear defroster isn't working (this is only recent, in the past month), or the short in my DRL's is causing it (CPO won't fix that either - wiring is fried leading into the headlamp). I have the DRL's turned off via the menu (been that way over a year now). I can't see why the defroster would matter if it's not turned on, nor are the DRL's turned on. The rear glass and hatch otherwise work as designed.
So I have to plug my car in every night to the battery charger like a POS plug-in hybrid. If I leave home with a full charge, drive a 30 mile round trip, with a 3 hour stop, and return home, the charger says the battery is only 65% when I get home. This is in roughly 10º F weather.
So, I have the hose setting off the comfort access, the short in the DRL, and most recently, a crack in the defroster wiring (probably have to take the hatch apart, presume this is in the hinge wiring).
Any thoughts?
As much as I love driving this car, I'm grossly disappointed with the joke of a CPO warranty and all the electrical gremlins (I've also had turbos replaced at 60k, and 3 HPFP's now). I just passed 100k, so my CPO warranty is now expired too...
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