wow Carlos, you're still working on this? you might as well replace the entire motor while you're at it. good luck and have fun bud.

 

If that makes no sense at all, regarding the tensioner:

 

This is my long term project. I've only had it a few weeks!!

 

Video is private.

 

oops, thanks.

Sorted it now.

 

It's hard to see in the video, but the tensioner is fighting against the valve springs on the nearest cylinder.

 

I am schpenxel from bimmerfest.. not sure why I used a different name on this forum, but anyways.

Haven't read every post, but you are right, it is a BASTARD to get in right. They should honestly include 2 or 3 extra seals with the kit so you don't have to worry about destroying the only one you have on hand.. I would recommend anyone who orders this kit to order an extra seal or three.

It really does take some force, and you have to be careful not to get it so pinched up that it won't go in all the way around. I think I used the edge of a 3/8" extension or something to get it to seat.. mine never did really feel like it went in 100% all the way around, but it DID have the "tap" when I slid the pipe in. The pipe should go all the way through the seal and hit something solid (timing cover?)

You may want to go ahead and get another seal at this point, depending on how pinched or warped it is at this point


edit: wait, did you just pull the whole front of the motor off because of this seal? I hope not, lol

edit2: k, I see where you said you had the seal in but the pipe still wouldn't go through it. Basically, you didn't have the seal in. It doesn't just sit in the natural place it wants to go when you first put it in--you have to force it into the groove first or you won't be able to get the pipe through. My problem was I'd get it pushed in 90% of the way around then the last bit would get all bunched up or pinched or whatever and I couldn't get it in. I'm not sure how I finally got it in all the way around but it finally went in.. I was pretty pissed at that point so I might have just forced it in

 

Hey schpenxel. I did have it in. It was completely flush and in the groove. I had to start with the thin edge right down in the groove, then push/force the thicker back edge down all the way around. This took ages and many attempts to achieve.

Anyway, the pipe is in perfectly now and removing the timing cover is a piece of piss. It might even be possible to do the job without removing the intake manifold... yes it requires a crane, but nothing difficult so far.

 

Anyway I just discovered: they redesigned the timing chain guides in 2005!

The parts I have are noticable larger!

You have to replace uppler/lower in pairs, and the bearing bolt/pivot is larger too (I haven't got that part yet).

I can replace the left-side guides easily. The right side cannot be replaced without pulling the head, I don't think. If there was a little less thread on the bearing bolt it would thread out enough to allow removal, but there's not Actually.. I might cut it, if the newer ones have shorter threads. Hmm. Need to get the newer bearing bolts.

I also discovered that the Febi chain guides (febi parts 28721, 28722, 28723, 28724) are actually the OEM parts, and they have had the BMW logos and words scraped/ground out of them!

 

Good to know.. I've thought about replacing my timing chain guides (had one fail and wreck an engine a few cars ago, albeit not a BMW) on mine but I'm sure as heck not pulling a head to do it!