carl0s

I got the timing cover back on now.

I have a great tip for this job: remove the lower oil pan, and loosen the bolts to the upper oil pan (this includes the 4 torx bolts from the gearbox/bellhousing, and the 4 smaller 10mm bolts underneath the rubber caps.

Just loosen them a bit.

There was no way I was getting the timing cover back on without doing that. It was just starting to crunch up the front of the oil pan gasket and the front of the head gaskets. I was using a prybar and all sorts.

Once the pan was loosened, the timing cover slides on easily, nearly all the way, but not quite all the way because the dowels aren't lined up because the timing cover is sitting a little low. Then you tighten up the oil pan bolts all around (except those that go into the timing cover), and this pushes the timing cover up into place against the head gaskets and in line with those dowels.
Then either mallet with a wood block in between, or just pull in with the bolts, to get that last 2mm in.

I wish I had loosened the oil pan in the first place then removing the timing cover would have been easier. It wasn't too difficult anyway, but I don't like using prybars on my expensive aluminium engine!!

528canyonrot

did you get the uro pipe in? I used the uro pipe with mine and I thought I did not have the pipe in enough, but as long as you can get the spiral clip in place your good. I actually tore one seal because I didnt think it was in enough and kept retrying to get it. My only tip is make sure you get it seated well using your fingers and lube and just get in on..

H F

Looks like your making good progress..I was wondering if u have been torque specific when tightening and bolting things back on..
I suggest changing the oil pressure switch while u have good access to it. If it leaks its hard to see and find,, its harder to get to later and its kinda hidden after everything is back on.
You know there is an update for a a/c belt tensioner. Ditch the stretch belt and Install a tensioner it will make it easy to reinstall or replace the ac belt.

carl0s

Yeah I got it in, but installed from the front like you would with the OEM pipe. I used two of the three optional spacers that they give you, so it's in well. I could see that the tip was in line with the edge of the block.

carl0s

I haven't been torque specific on anything yet, but then I've only put 4 - 5 timing cover bolts in, to pull the cover in. I have a torque wrench but I very rarely use it

Is the oil pressure sensor/switch the thing right next to the impossible-to-remove timing chain tensioner? I'll look it up anyway, thanks.

Didn't know about the A/C update. I'll look at that too - thanks again

H F

The oil switch is under passenger lower cam in your picture. Next to that hose clamp.
Ya bro,, look up the torque specs for the lower timing cover,,whip out your torque wrench and make sure u don't over or under tighten the cover. It will ensure that u don't crush the gasket from a heavy hand. The last thing u want is a leak. Also when putting the alternator bracket back on, torque those bolts to specs. Especially belt tensioners too, if u over tighten those the pully will seize and break the belt.
The belt tensioner is the same one for the serpentine belt and the location is just to the left of the crank pulley just above the ARS torsion bar. The mounting casting in the block looks identical to the serpentine pully mount.

carl0s

Good idea re the torque specs. I'm not sure I'm going to bother with the tensioner though. Thanks.
I ordered the oil pressure switch. Yes that's right next to my faulty tensioner !

H F

Don't under estimate the torque on the pullys they are really easy to over tighten, and they will seize on you. I suggest putting all new tensioners and pully's along with new belts hoses, expansion tank, water pump and thermostat. while u have her wide open.

carl0s

I have just bought all the chain guides and what not. Now I know what those pieces of plastic in the oil pan were.. That means the timing cover has to come off again though!

I don't see the point in adding a new tensioner for the a/c compressor. It's just another thing to go wrong, and another expense. The tool for fitting the stretch belt is cheap enough.

The water pump looks to have been replaced not too long ago. I have bought a new gasket for it though.

carl0s

Hmm. They could have made it possible to remove/swap the chain guides on the RH side without removing the cylinder head. But they didn't

So I guess I'll only be replacing the guides on the LH side

Also my new chain tensioner made no difference. I think the reason the tensioner's chain guide is staying floppy on this side (rather than springing back like the other side does), is because the valve springs at the front of the engine are compressed and they're causing the cam gear to turn against the tensioner.

So that means I haven't diagnosed the bad ticking noise. I hope it was just the gearbox. I'm planning to buy a new gearbox tonight.

On a brighter note. Removing that timing cover really is an absolute piece of piss if you remove the lower oil pan and loosen the bolts to the upper oil pan a bit. Just used a wooden mallet.. popped right off