Engine Mount DIY for 535xi? - Page 2 - 5Series.net - Forums

Go Back  5Series.net - Forums > E60 5 Series (2004 - 2010) > E60 Discussion
Reload this Page >

Engine Mount DIY for 535xi?

E60 Discussion Anything and everything to do with the E60 5 Series. All are welcome!
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Engine Mount DIY for 535xi?

Old 11-01-2018, 12:16 PM
  #11  
New Members
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: FTB
Posts: 38
My Ride: e61 535xi
Model Year: 2008
Default

It's not that bad IMO. I've dropped the subframe for the second time now and you honestly don't have to drop it all the way to do the mounts. If you have decent wrenching skills and an engine brace, you'll be fine.
Sirius815 is offline  
Old 11-01-2018, 01:53 PM
  #12  
New Members
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: NJ
Posts: 18
My Ride: 535i X-Drive
Model Year: 2010
Default

Originally Posted by Sirius815 View Post
It's not that bad IMO. I've dropped the subframe for the second time now and you honestly don't have to drop it all the way to do the mounts. If you have decent wrenching skills and an engine brace, you'll be fine.
8

Do you know if there is any DIY guide to lowering or removing the subframe on an X-Drive E60? I haven't been able to find one yet.
zoom750 is offline  
Old 11-01-2018, 05:01 PM
  #13  
New Members
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: FTB
Posts: 38
My Ride: e61 535xi
Model Year: 2008
Default

There is a video on youtube, but it is not in depth. Overall, brace engine from top, unbolt front and rear control arms from the subframe (you can likely leave the axles, tie rods, and struts in because you won't have to drop the subframe all the way down to do engine mounts), unbolt the front right height sensor arm and unplug connector, unbolt steering coupler at the steering rack and unplug (easily done from driver's side fender well), unbolt engine mounts from top (bolt on driver's side and nut on passenger's), partially unbolt all 6 subframe bolts, lower subframe carefully with your choice of equipment (I've used an ATV or just a regular jack just fine, but I usually have my wife out there with me as a second set of hands comes in really handy). There may be enough slack in the power steering lines that are attached to the front of the subframe, but you can unbolt those as well (one bolt on the driver's side is on top of the subframe so you'll have to lower it some before you can get to it). You'll possibly need slack in the transmission fluid lines if you have an automatic; unbolt the two screws that hold the lines to a bracket towards the front driver's side of the subframe (they are a pain to get to, but you can lower the subframe down some to get access or you may not even have to remove).

Just take your time and double check everything as it is coming down to make sure everything has clearance and all lines have enough slack. Be careful with the engine brace as it will sit very far forward on the inner fenders; you don't want it to accidentally slide off. Again, a helper is encouraged.
Sirius815 is offline  
Old 11-10-2018, 02:15 AM
  #14  
New Members
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Montreal
Posts: 73
My Ride: 2010 535xiT Touring
Model Year: 2010
Engine: N54 3.0L Twin Turbo
Default

Get yourself a 1/4" drive e-torx set for the mount to subframe fasteners and a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a flex head to help you get at the mount fasteners - clearances can be tight.
gman6262 is offline  
Old 12-05-2018, 08:57 AM
  #15  
New Members
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: mn
Posts: 1
My Ride: 2007 525xi
Default

I am in the same boat. Need to replace the right front motor mount on a 2007 525xi (N52) engine. I can't find a DIY either.

My questions:
  • It looks like I need to remove the passenger axle to gain access to the mount bolts?
  • Then my other question is after getting access, is there enough room to jack up the engine to get the new mount in there without disassembling a bunch of things?
  • Stealership said all four bolts sheared off. Will they be able to come out easily? I assume these are aluminum...

I usually DIY, but in this case I'm considering taking it to the dealer or find a Indy.

Damn potholes up here.
srohang1 is offline  
Old 12-05-2018, 09:00 AM
  #16  
New Members
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: FTB
Posts: 38
My Ride: e61 535xi
Model Year: 2008
Default

Subframe must drop down and the passenger axle goes through the subframe - so yes the axle must come out.
Sirius815 is offline  
Old 12-05-2018, 10:25 PM
  #17  
New Members
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Portland Or
Posts: 34
My Ride: 535xi hud night vision
Model Year: 08
Default

Originally Posted by Zero Cool View Post
at idle, in drive, with A/C on, and brake pedal depressed. so just like at a stop light. there is vibration. its not horrible, its noticeable though. the car has 111,000 miles.
My issues were exactly as you described, no codes. Worst at idle In drive with the ac on. I replaced my Vanos and it was a night and day difference. The old ones rattled when I pulled them out. I would highly recommend seeing if you can borrow some know good ones from a buddies car. Its a 30 minute project to replace them. Put something down over the pulleys so if you drop the 10mm bolts you donít lose them or if oil leaks it doesnít get on your belt. I used rags an made sure to put a note on the starter button to remove them so I didnít forget.


Last edited by 535xrayindigo; 12-05-2018 at 10:50 PM.
535xrayindigo is offline  
Old 12-10-2018, 05:29 AM
  #18  
New Members
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 34
My Ride: 2008 535xi base sedan
Default

I agree, I have my engine mounts exposed, I can report back with pictures for evidence.
Pegasusxi is offline  
Old 12-10-2018, 05:30 AM
  #19  
New Members
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 34
My Ride: 2008 535xi base sedan
Default

If you are unsure about your diagnosis you can always run to an indy and get a diagnosis for 60-100 bucks. This will ensure that if you decide to tackle this (not easy) job, you will indeed solve your chief complaint.

Good luck
Pegasusxi is offline  
Old 12-12-2018, 05:19 AM
  #20  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 30
My Ride: 2008 535xI Wagon
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Default

Originally Posted by 535xrayindigo View Post


My issues were exactly as you described, no codes. Worst at idle In drive with the ac on. I replaced my Vanos and it was a night and day difference. The old ones rattled when I pulled them out. I would highly recommend seeing if you can borrow some know good ones from a buddies car. Its a 30 minute project to replace them. Put something down over the pulleys so if you drop the 10mm bolts you donít lose them or if oil leaks it doesnít get on your belt. I used rags an made sure to put a note on the starter button to remove them so I didnít forget.

how many miles are/were on your car when you did this?
i replaced cams in my E46, and while i was there, rebuilt the VANOS, so doing this on the N54 shouldn't be an issue for me.
Zero Cool is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Engine Mount DIY for 535xi?


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.