Does my microfilter need changing (Pics inside!)
03-25-2009, 11:49 AM
#11
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Throw them away Adam!!
When you do swop them, before fitting the new ones, get your hose pipe and direct it down the hole by the wing on each side - this drains water from the filter area, and if the drains get blocked, the water will fill up where your leaves are and overflow into the heater and into the car, bringing damp carpets and strange smells!! When you do the hose pipe trick, stand at the front of the car because the drains are at the side and you can get wet feet!!! (Bitter experience talking here!)
Remember the Rover 75 that had the BMW diesel engine in it??
Mr. Rover put the ECU in the tray between the microfilters, but the drains were prone to blocking on the earlier models. Unfortunately before the water got into the heater and inside the car, the ECU was completely under water, which tended to kill the car!!!
It's odd that on the Rover 75 forums, they say that the most unreliable things on the car are those that Mr BMW made!! (ECU's, Fuel Pumps)
Mike
When you do swop them, before fitting the new ones, get your hose pipe and direct it down the hole by the wing on each side - this drains water from the filter area, and if the drains get blocked, the water will fill up where your leaves are and overflow into the heater and into the car, bringing damp carpets and strange smells!! When you do the hose pipe trick, stand at the front of the car because the drains are at the side and you can get wet feet!!! (Bitter experience talking here!)
Remember the Rover 75 that had the BMW diesel engine in it??
Mr. Rover put the ECU in the tray between the microfilters, but the drains were prone to blocking on the earlier models. Unfortunately before the water got into the heater and inside the car, the ECU was completely under water, which tended to kill the car!!!
It's odd that on the Rover 75 forums, they say that the most unreliable things on the car are those that Mr BMW made!! (ECU's, Fuel Pumps)
Mike
03-25-2009, 12:00 PM
#12
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Throw them away Adam!!
When you do swop them, before fitting the new ones, get your hose pipe and direct it down the hole by the wing on each side - this drains water from the filter area, and if the drains get blocked, the water will fill up where your leaves are and overflow into the heater and into the car, bringing damp carpets and strange smells!! When you do the hose pipe trick, stand at the front of the car because the drains are at the side and you can get wet feet!!! (Bitter experience talking here!)
Remember the Rover 75 that had the BMW diesel engine in it??
Mr. Rover put the ECU in the tray between the microfilters, but the drains were prone to blocking on the earlier models. Unfortunately before the water got into the heater and inside the car, the ECU was completely under water, which tended to kill the car!!!
It's odd that on the Rover 75 forums, they say that the most unreliable things on the car are those that Mr BMW made!! (ECU's, Fuel Pumps)
Mike
When you do swop them, before fitting the new ones, get your hose pipe and direct it down the hole by the wing on each side - this drains water from the filter area, and if the drains get blocked, the water will fill up where your leaves are and overflow into the heater and into the car, bringing damp carpets and strange smells!! When you do the hose pipe trick, stand at the front of the car because the drains are at the side and you can get wet feet!!! (Bitter experience talking here!)
Remember the Rover 75 that had the BMW diesel engine in it??
Mr. Rover put the ECU in the tray between the microfilters, but the drains were prone to blocking on the earlier models. Unfortunately before the water got into the heater and inside the car, the ECU was completely under water, which tended to kill the car!!!
It's odd that on the Rover 75 forums, they say that the most unreliable things on the car are those that Mr BMW made!! (ECU's, Fuel Pumps)
Mike
Now I just need to know if oil filter, oil and brake fluid needs to be changed or not. I might just do the oil filter and oil for the hell of it. Brake fluid warning sign has come up but the brakes are not damp and it seems to be fine. Maybe a top up is in order. Dont know if anyone know much about these ?
Thanks all for your help !!!!!!!
03-25-2009, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nudda' post='826575' date='Mar 25 2009, 08:00 PM
lol i am now wondering where the previous owner has been driving to. I dont have any trees where I park, and at work its underground parking.
Top Man. Some of the stuff you have told me needs to be stickied! Very useful ... I will do the hose pipe trick and tell you how it goes. Also plan to change the air filters as per our discussion.
Now I just need to know if oil filter, oil and brake fluid needs to be changed or not. I might just do the oil filter and oil for the hell of it. Brake fluid warning sign has come up but the brakes are not damp and it seems to be fine. Maybe a top up is in order. Dont know if anyone know much about these ?
Thanks all for your help !!!!!!!
Top Man. Some of the stuff you have told me needs to be stickied! Very useful ... I will do the hose pipe trick and tell you how it goes. Also plan to change the air filters as per our discussion.
Now I just need to know if oil filter, oil and brake fluid needs to be changed or not. I might just do the oil filter and oil for the hell of it. Brake fluid warning sign has come up but the brakes are not damp and it seems to be fine. Maybe a top up is in order. Dont know if anyone know much about these ?
Thanks all for your help !!!!!!!
brake fluid is changed every 2 years check your i drive
03-25-2009, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hey3688' post='826613' date='Mar 25 2009, 08:42 PM
i would do oil and filter if you dont know when last done
brake fluid is changed every 2 years check your i drive
brake fluid is changed every 2 years check your i drive
iDrive has flagged brake fluid but I havent driven the car much and i know it just bring it up on time interval ... not actually sensing if it needs changing.
03-26-2009, 05:46 AM
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Brake fluid is probably one of the few things that deteriorate more when you don't use it!
The reason to change the brake fluid is that is absorbs water from the atmosphere. If this water is allowed to build up, then it gets hot, turns to steam in the brake lines (just when you need them because the heat is developed from your braking). Steam is more compressible than brake fluid, so just as you're going hot into a right angle bend, you end up with little brake and a need for clean underwear.
If you use the car regularly, the heat from your brakes will evaporate small amounts of water without any noticeable difference.
Some of us who have old cars that do little mileage have changed from glycol based fluids to silicone based brake fluids. These silicone based fluids don't absorb water at all, and can be left in use typically ten times longer than glycol based fluids. Obviously Silicone fluids are more expensive and not as easy to get hold of. They do conform to the highest DOT5.1 spec. There have been issues with brake seals not agreeing with Silicone fluids and either shrinking or swelling. All UK sourced brake seals, and I understand all European seals can cope with both types of fluid (you should never mix the fluids though). American seals are manufactured with different additives and are prone to shrinkage. I'm not being a know-it-all here (I'm quite the opposite), but I've just been reading about different fluids in this months MG Car Club magazine!!
You can get a kit to test the amount of water in the fluid, and make your decision from there.
As you know, the brake fluid reservoir isn't very easy to get to, so it's not a quick job to do.
I would suggest that if you're inexperienced with bleeding brakes, then you should get a professional to do the job.
If you're doing it yourself, then you need to get under all four wheels of the car, and it is definitely a two person job. Don't forget that brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat into your paintwork if you spill any. Not too good on hands either.
Mike
The reason to change the brake fluid is that is absorbs water from the atmosphere. If this water is allowed to build up, then it gets hot, turns to steam in the brake lines (just when you need them because the heat is developed from your braking). Steam is more compressible than brake fluid, so just as you're going hot into a right angle bend, you end up with little brake and a need for clean underwear.
If you use the car regularly, the heat from your brakes will evaporate small amounts of water without any noticeable difference.
Some of us who have old cars that do little mileage have changed from glycol based fluids to silicone based brake fluids. These silicone based fluids don't absorb water at all, and can be left in use typically ten times longer than glycol based fluids. Obviously Silicone fluids are more expensive and not as easy to get hold of. They do conform to the highest DOT5.1 spec. There have been issues with brake seals not agreeing with Silicone fluids and either shrinking or swelling. All UK sourced brake seals, and I understand all European seals can cope with both types of fluid (you should never mix the fluids though). American seals are manufactured with different additives and are prone to shrinkage. I'm not being a know-it-all here (I'm quite the opposite), but I've just been reading about different fluids in this months MG Car Club magazine!!
You can get a kit to test the amount of water in the fluid, and make your decision from there.
As you know, the brake fluid reservoir isn't very easy to get to, so it's not a quick job to do.
I would suggest that if you're inexperienced with bleeding brakes, then you should get a professional to do the job.
If you're doing it yourself, then you need to get under all four wheels of the car, and it is definitely a two person job. Don't forget that brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat into your paintwork if you spill any. Not too good on hands either.
Mike
03-26-2009, 08:40 AM
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Mike - You are the man 
A wealh of knowledge you have there and not BS like a lot of people feed you on forums! Appreciate your detailed answer. I might just get a pro to change the brake fluid ... I just dont want it to get worse ... as they say, if it aint broke dont fix it 
A wealh of knowledge you have there and not BS like a lot of people feed you on forums! Appreciate your detailed answer. I might just get a pro to change the brake fluid ... I just dont want it to get worse ... as they say, if it aint broke dont fix it
03-27-2009, 07:55 AM
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How can you find out if you have the Active Carbon or the other (paper?) cabin filters?
03-27-2009, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Thullz' post='828204' date='Mar 27 2009, 11:55 AM
How can you find out if you have the Active Carbon or the other (paper?) cabin filters?
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