Rightnow the interior is ripped apart. I took out the head lights and like yours the ballasts were filled with water. The adaptive headlight modules were corroded so I think they were exposed too, Basically I am replacing both ballast and module aswell as light bulbs. Waiting on those to come in. Gonna replace the blower motor then the flooring while i'm at it.

My main problem rightnow is getting the steering wheel off. I think only an impact wrench will do at this point but I can't drive the car to a mechanic. I am thinking about just buying the tools from Walmart then take them back later. Everytime I tow the car it is $94 just to pick it up. I sprayed the bolt with PB Blaster and WD40 neither has worked. Very frustrating.

All I need to get it on the road are headlights and indicators. Hopefully the steering column switch will take care of the wipers. The seats are heavy as hell, I have heating on the seats but nothing else but I noticed that a bunch of the seat module connectors were disconnected I am hoping all the seat options will work once I plug them all back in, the battery is not in the car rightnow.

Do you know if one can get sound, e.g. radio, without an amplifier installed? Also, do you have power steering? last I drove the car I didn't have power steeering.

 

I made some awesome progress today!! I finally got the CD Changer in after the ebay seller had to order one just to get it to me. So today I installed the CCC, CD Changer, and Logic 7 Amp. Plugged the battery back in and lo and behold my iDrive screen lit up

I had already unplugged the iDrive controller in my venture to remove the center console, so I unplugged the battery again, and this time put the old iDrive screen back in while I finished the task of removing the center console and unscrewing the iDrive controller. I plugged things back in and my iDrive controller is definitely shot, but at least the original iDrive screen works perfectly. So it looks like I'll be returning the wiper motor and iDrive screen which both didn't need to be replaced. I also purchased a replacement HUD, but I haven't taken the car for a spin yet. The original one is still in place, and simply hitting the button did not bring anything up. Crossing my fingers that it needs to be in motion.

I do have power steering. In fact I think it has active steering as when I'm at very low speeds, it turns much better than my MDX, but maybe that's coz I'm so used to my E46 that hasn't had power steering for years. As far as the nut size for the steering it was 15mm, so impact wrench might do the trick. Also talk to your local parts store, maybe they would have a clue of something that would work, if not reaffirming that an impact wrench will do the trick.

From what I understand about the MOST system, all parts need to be in place or else nothing on the network will work. This is because it is a ring topology, which basically means data will only travel in one direction. A break in that ring, means an 'open circuit'. Do you have anything on your iDrive screen?

Good luck on the headlights. With the way my connectors were corroded, I was going to run the hacked set up until I could get complete headlights w/ballasts and ignitors, because I was not sure about the actual connectors once the ballasts and ignitors were replaced. I now have replacement headlights on the way after seeing a deal I couldn't pass up. Since it's such a pain to get the thing apart, I will source a blower for the AC and replace it before I start stitching the car back up.

 

This is totally untrue. Encoding is one thing, programming is another. FIrst a unit needs to programmed to the car and then encoded. I've encoded used modules including DSC modules and SZL (steering column) on BMW so that's complete BS

I read a couple of pages and I kinda skipped over this post because it was a lot of reading. Can you just quickly update me with where you guys are currently at so that I may be of assistance. I'm pretty familiar with all the modules in this car and which one does what and how to troubleshoot a problem.

 

Certainly!
Short back story: Bought a 2007 530XI that turned out to be flood damaged.
Successfully replaced dumb parts: Replaced alternator and battery.
Successfully replaced smart modules: So far I've replaced the LCM, SZL (switch unit steering cluster I thought it was SZC or something likre that), KBM, KGM, TCU, Satellite module, L7 Amp, CCC. Jerry-rigged the lights so that it runs on Halogens instead of the Xenons. I have a pair of headlights on the way to get it back to Bi-Xenons.

Replaced and not sure about success: Transfer control box. I still get the 4X4 warning, so not sure if I need to clear codes or program the module or if the replacement itself is bad. IHKA, the new one lights up and responds, but I'm not getting anything through the vents. I figure it's the AC blower, but the one I got was off an LCI, so it might be the module itself. I'm going to replace the AC blower first and see if it will work.

Issues not yet tackled:
1. iDrive Controller. Once I got the iDrive screen to turn on, I was able to validate that the controller does not function.
2. Driver's door controls light up, but do not do anything. This means I can't raise/lower windows or adjust the side mirrors. The individual door controls work fine for the individual windows. For the drivers door I know the motor works because when I hold down the open button on the key fob, the drivers door opens and closes when I hold the key in the door in the lock position.
2. Front seats will not move. I haven't sourced any of the seat modules yet. I'll most likely do that last.

Coding:
I was able to get the cable and a laptop that seems to work and got as far as INPALOAD showing the two black dots for Battery and whatever the other thing is. But when I access some of the modules, I get a communication error. I was able to successfully access the sunroof and it came back ok. So it might be the cable I'm using. I proceeded to launch NCSExper and got an error trying to access CAS to try coding something.

 

I also have the cable but haven't replaced anything that needs coding yet, so haven't tested it. My windows worked then the rear passenger went down and would not come back up, the dealer got it to come up now the windows doesn't work at all. I'm thinking maybe they pulled the fuse or something.

Did you go with a BMW battery or what? Also, how do I know if I have HUD?

 

I got the first battery that matched the specs from OReiley's. As far as HUD goes think of it this way. It is a device that is housed behind the instrument cluster that protrudes out of the dash. If you look in that area ontop of the dash, it will be very noticeable if you have it. I would say a 6in by 6in square protrusion/glass covered hole.

Wooo hooo!! Thanks to trying to explain the answer I now think I know how to get at replacing the HUD. I'd removed the trim around it and was stumped as to how to get the old one out. I think now I'll simply go through the instrument cluster. lol. Or maybe from under the dash. Hmmmm. Imma try getting it out tonight and read up on the TIS to see the recommended solution. If it requires removing the dash, I'll live without HUD and try to sell the replacement one I got

 

Does the junk yard you go to have an online shop? I think I'm gonna need a CCC.

 

try ebay

 

The website to visit for any part from a salvage yard is car-parts.com. Finding the exact part can be a challenge because you can't search on description, but once you find it, the prices are awesome. Basically you identify the part you are looking for and it will list the yards that have them available. Many yards now have a chat feature that I find very convenient to use. Most of them also have 90 day or 6 month warranties with the parts, so I never have fear of the part not working. So for CCC, you'd choose radio, and read through the descriptions, call one yard up and validate the part #.

As far as the yard I go to, I found the part (transfer case) on car-parts, and then I called to see if they had the transfer box in the car. The part itself was not listed, and initially they said no, but I talked the agent through how to locate it and since it was not listed I got the part for $80 . For obscure parts like that, I've named my price and pretty much gotten them at junkyard prices .

 

Thanks for that site. I finished the R&R on the motor blower yesterday. It was a pain in the ass. Seems like replacing the carpet is gonna be just as tedious. Glad I did it though I found a bunch of stuff disconnected. The water damage in the car seems kinda weird. There was no signs of damage under the seat itself just up to the bottom of the seat module but there was signs of water in the vents. Also driver side of the entire car shows no signs of Damage. It was real dirty after I pulled the blower motor. Here is a pic of the old blower motor still in place look at all that dirt at the bottom.