Brake rotor question
02-11-2021, 04:43 AM
#11
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My Ride: E61 530xi 6MT
Model Year: 2007
Engine: N52
okay, so I find that VERY interesting, thank you.
I wonder how much these ^^^ (mine) weigh vs slotted/drilled rotors.
I’m not getting the drilled and slotted for better braking... I’m getting them, like everyone else, because they look great. I just don’t want to trade a big weight increase for better esthetics.
Hmmmm....
I wonder how much these ^^^ (mine) weigh vs slotted/drilled rotors.
I’m not getting the drilled and slotted for better braking... I’m getting them, like everyone else, because they look great. I just don’t want to trade a big weight increase for better esthetics.
Hmmmm....
The average person would likely never notice a difference just driving to the grocery store and back. But for enthusiasts who like the feel of driving and spirited corners etc; you WILL notice a difference even on the street. I have with many of my cars (same effect as with going to lighter wheels)
As long as you are doing drilled/slotted for appearance then that's fine (even my race car runs blank aluminum hat rotors instead of drilled/slotted because time attack races I'd still not even notice) but I have had drilled/slotted in the past crack on street cars(from the drill holes). In a winter climate I would avoid them, especially cheaper brands. If the car has them oem then likely the rotor is thicker to accommodate the additional fracture points.
In essence you would be decreasing performance for appearance.
Last edited by neilv; 02-11-2021 at 04:48 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by neilv:
FormerE30Owner (02-11-2021),
radarcontact (03-16-2021)
03-16-2021, 04:18 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
I found the aluminum hat 348/345 rotors lighter than the cast 1 piece 324/320 rotors I replaced on my E61. For the E90 cars the 348 front 2 piece rotors are 2-3 pounds lighter than the cast version of same rotor, plus rotational mass is known to have the effect of 4-5 times; so you'd be adding an effective 8-15 lbs per wheel. They are rotational mass plus sprung weight( in suspension travel) so its literally the best place to lose/worst place to add weight. The weight loss from drilled/slotted is in the grams; no where near the change of going to alu hats.
The average person would likely never notice a difference just driving to the grocery store and back. But for enthusiasts who like the feel of driving and spirited corners etc; you WILL notice a difference even on the street. I have with many of my cars (same effect as with going to lighter wheels)
As long as you are doing drilled/slotted for appearance then that's fine (even my race car runs blank aluminum hat rotors instead of drilled/slotted because time attack races I'd still not even notice) but I have had drilled/slotted in the past crack on street cars(from the drill holes). In a winter climate I would avoid them, especially cheaper brands. If the car has them oem then likely the rotor is thicker to accommodate the additional fracture points.
In essence you would be decreasing performance for appearance.
The average person would likely never notice a difference just driving to the grocery store and back. But for enthusiasts who like the feel of driving and spirited corners etc; you WILL notice a difference even on the street. I have with many of my cars (same effect as with going to lighter wheels)
As long as you are doing drilled/slotted for appearance then that's fine (even my race car runs blank aluminum hat rotors instead of drilled/slotted because time attack races I'd still not even notice) but I have had drilled/slotted in the past crack on street cars(from the drill holes). In a winter climate I would avoid them, especially cheaper brands. If the car has them oem then likely the rotor is thicker to accommodate the additional fracture points.
In essence you would be decreasing performance for appearance.
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