Battery dies overnight
#51
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Originally Posted by Curmudgeon' post='1051181' date='Nov 9 2009, 08:05 PM
Concur! This is "keeper" information. Thanks 530inOK.
I also had problems with BMW-Planet schematics, glad to see they are correcting this.![Smile](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/smile.gif)
I also had problems with BMW-Planet schematics, glad to see they are correcting this.
![Smile](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/smile.gif)
How would a scan tool help in finding my problem other then reading fault codes? Doesn't the car need to be powered to see the streams of data and the module information? If the car is powered how would I find what is draining?
Thanks for all the help.
#52
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Originally Posted by skibarefoot' post='1051373' date='Nov 9 2009, 11:48 PM
How would a scan tool help in finding my problem other then reading fault codes? Doesn't the car need to be powered to see the streams of data and the module information? If the car is powered how would I find what is draining?
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
Guess I'm back to pulling fuses. This time I will pull and note any that create a amp draw decrease no matter how slight.
#53
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Originally Posted by skibarefoot' post='1052048' date='Nov 10 2009, 08:47 PM
Guess I'm back to pulling fuses. This time I will pull and note any that create a amp draw decrease no matter how slight.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...389&nmt=e60 530i..."high rate of battery discharge"...any ideas
The E60 battery negative lead has an Intelligent Battery Sensor built into it,the early ones were prone to moisture causing an internal fault inside it,just above its location there is a vent that can let a little moisture in. The new IBS's are completly waterproof and i haven't had to change one yet. If the sensor is faulty it can stop the car going into sleep mode and actually cause the battery to go flat,the complete opposite of its invention.
The dealers have an energy diagnosis test that highlights if there is a battery drain fault,but if that shows up o.k,i would suspect the i.b.s is faulty.
If a battery has gone faulty and it is replaced,then we have to register it in the ibs's memory so it can start monitoring the battery drain accurately again.
I've seen cars that haven't had a new battery registered keep putting up check control messages because the ibs is confused.
If u disconnect the little red wire on top of the ibs,(its power supply) the battery then goes back to just being a negative lead again,so you could try that and if the battery doesn't go flat then u could buy an ibs
Strictly speaking if you fit a new one you are meant to carry out a full software update.
You could try ur local dealer for a goodwill claim,its worth a phonecall to them
#54
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Originally Posted by 530inOK' post='1052053' date='Nov 10 2009, 09:57 PM
I think the IBS was mentioned early in this thread. This post from another forum mentions a way to test it. May be worth a shot.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...389&nmt=e60 530i..."high rate of battery discharge"...any ideas
The E60 battery negative lead has an Intelligent Battery Sensor built into it,the early ones were prone to moisture causing an internal fault inside it,just above its location there is a vent that can let a little moisture in. The new IBS's are completly waterproof and i haven't had to change one yet. If the sensor is faulty it can stop the car going into sleep mode and actually cause the battery to go flat,the complete opposite of its invention.
The dealers have an energy diagnosis test that highlights if there is a battery drain fault,but if that shows up o.k,i would suspect the i.b.s is faulty.
If a battery has gone faulty and it is replaced,then we have to register it in the ibs's memory so it can start monitoring the battery drain accurately again.
I've seen cars that haven't had a new battery registered keep putting up check control messages because the ibs is confused.
If u disconnect the little red wire on top of the ibs,(its power supply) the battery then goes back to just being a negative lead again,so you could try that and if the battery doesn't go flat then u could buy an ibs
Strictly speaking if you fit a new one you are meant to carry out a full software update.
You could try ur local dealer for a goodwill claim,its worth a phonecall to them
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...389&nmt=e60 530i..."high rate of battery discharge"...any ideas
The E60 battery negative lead has an Intelligent Battery Sensor built into it,the early ones were prone to moisture causing an internal fault inside it,just above its location there is a vent that can let a little moisture in. The new IBS's are completly waterproof and i haven't had to change one yet. If the sensor is faulty it can stop the car going into sleep mode and actually cause the battery to go flat,the complete opposite of its invention.
The dealers have an energy diagnosis test that highlights if there is a battery drain fault,but if that shows up o.k,i would suspect the i.b.s is faulty.
If a battery has gone faulty and it is replaced,then we have to register it in the ibs's memory so it can start monitoring the battery drain accurately again.
I've seen cars that haven't had a new battery registered keep putting up check control messages because the ibs is confused.
If u disconnect the little red wire on top of the ibs,(its power supply) the battery then goes back to just being a negative lead again,so you could try that and if the battery doesn't go flat then u could buy an ibs
Strictly speaking if you fit a new one you are meant to carry out a full software update.
You could try ur local dealer for a goodwill claim,its worth a phonecall to them
The car has 75k miles. Well out of warranty. I'll check out the ibs check out first. Thanks
#55
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This type of problem has recently been discussed in :-
https://5series.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=#entry1045251
Take a look at the post by member vkhong,the information in that link is very informative.
You have been asked if your new battery was registered and I have not seen a reply.It could be a problem with the IBS as other members have already suggested.
https://5series.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=#entry1045251
Take a look at the post by member vkhong,the information in that link is very informative.
You have been asked if your new battery was registered and I have not seen a reply.It could be a problem with the IBS as other members have already suggested.
#56
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Originally Posted by tooltec' post='1053299' date='Nov 12 2009, 03:07 PM
This type of problem has recently been discussed in :-
https://5series.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=#entry1045251
Take a look at the post by member vkhong,the information in that link is very informative.
You have been asked if your new battery was registered and I have not seen a reply.It could be a problem with the IBS as other members have already suggested.
https://5series.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=#entry1045251
Take a look at the post by member vkhong,the information in that link is very informative.
You have been asked if your new battery was registered and I have not seen a reply.It could be a problem with the IBS as other members have already suggested.
I ordered scan tool hardware today, it'll be here tomorrow. Then I can register the battery and look at modules etc. I have not had a chance yet to mess with the car anymore. I work 3/12hr days a week. I only have time to work on the car on my off days which are coming up. As soon as look at the car again I will post results. Thanks.
#57
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Originally Posted by skibarefoot' post='1053353' date='Nov 12 2009, 04:05 PM
I ordered scan tool hardware today, it'll be here tomorrow. Then I can register the battery and look at modules etc. I have not had a chance yet to mess with the car anymore. I work 3/12hr days a week. I only have time to work on the car on my off days which are coming up. As soon as look at the car again I will post results. Thanks.
#58
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Originally Posted by Vyce77' post='1053381' date='Nov 12 2009, 04:39 PM
From what I understand, only the dealer can get into the power management section and register the battery using progman
According to Auto Enginuity and Bavarian Technic both products will register the battery plus a whole lot more. I asked them that question specifically. We will find out. And, of course I'll let you know.
#59
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Originally Posted by Mizuno' post='1049518' date='Nov 7 2009, 06:16 PM
Hi,
New member here, from Oslo, Norway. I have had the exact same problem on my 2004 E60 the last week. Last Friday night the alarm went off for no reason. Next morning it was totally dead and I measured the battery to 3,35 volts. Got the car to a local BMW dealer and they told me the battery had to be replaced. Cost me $450 incl. registering the battery and removing some failure codes. Yes, service & parts IS expensive here.
Drove the car happily for two days and this morning it was dead again. Measured the battery to 4,4 volts.
Will bring it back to the dealer on Monday. If they identify the problem I will let you know. In the meantime I hope to see some posts here that I can use to put the dealer in the right direction. I suspect that a general search for electrical failures will cost me a small fortune
Ola
New member here, from Oslo, Norway. I have had the exact same problem on my 2004 E60 the last week. Last Friday night the alarm went off for no reason. Next morning it was totally dead and I measured the battery to 3,35 volts. Got the car to a local BMW dealer and they told me the battery had to be replaced. Cost me $450 incl. registering the battery and removing some failure codes. Yes, service & parts IS expensive here.
Drove the car happily for two days and this morning it was dead again. Measured the battery to 4,4 volts.
Will bring it back to the dealer on Monday. If they identify the problem I will let you know. In the meantime I hope to see some posts here that I can use to put the dealer in the right direction. I suspect that a general search for electrical failures will cost me a small fortune
![Frown](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/sad.gif)
Ola
Last Sunday I started pulling fuses and measuring with an ampmeter. First of all, disconnecting the negative lead caused a malfunction report of the belt tensioners and airbags in the display. Supposedly normal when disconnecting the minus lead and something I needed the dealer to fix. I have later been recommended using an ampmeter that connects over the lead and not having to disconnect it.
Next challenge was that my ampmeter had two seperate connectors, one for up to 10 amps and one limited to 2000 milliamps. Had to use the one up to 10 amps initially. The car pulled about 8 amps before going into sleep mode. After about 1-2 minutes it fell to 3,65A. After 10 minutes it measured 0,2A. Started pulling the fuses one by one without much change, until I pulled the one for the PDC. It then fell to 0,01A. Pulling some of the other fuses made it go up to 0,54A and 2,96A. Finally it settled at 0,01A.
Now the problem with continuing the measurements was that I was unable to switch to the 2000mA connector without waking up the car. That was impossible since the 2000 milliamps wouldnt let that much current through. A wide range ampmeter would have been a good idea. Another thing is that I probably didn't wait long enough for the car to go into sleep mode.
I'm not convinced that I learned anything from this. Other than that this is a very complex piece of machinery, best left to those with the right tools and knowledge. I was hoping to save some money this way, but even if I did find the problem I would have no idea what to do with it.
Left the car with the dealer on Tuesday and they spent 5 hours diagnosing it. Because I had disconnected the negative lead they were unable to read any error codes/history related to the battery. They found a broken lead connecting to the trunk light and fixed it. Then they did a complete software update. That actually improved other things about the car. Running more smoothly and removing some jerkyness when cold.
Unfortunately I have no idea what the problem was, but it appears to be ok now. Have had no battery problems after that. Cost me about $1250. $800 + $450 for the previous battery change
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Don't know if there's any useful info her, but I hope I never have electrical probems again. I'll take a mechanical problem any day over this.
#60
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Originally Posted by methodsound' post='1047644' date='Nov 4 2009, 09:54 PM
Just curious what your using to measure current draw? Something similar to this?
This amp meter I mentioned is the solution to your problem trying to measure the amps with your multi meter. It does not require the battery connection to be disconnected.
It sounds like the dealer said your trunk light was staying on due to the faulty trunk hatch trigger? Is that what the drain turned out to be? The reason I ask is that the car will shut off the trunk light if you leave the trunk open, so maybe the trigger was intermittent and the car was waking up thinking you were opening the trunk?