BAD NEWS!!!....Rear Subframe Bushing worn.
07-17-2014, 11:32 AM
#11
Yea I originally though it was the front of the car definitely didnt feel like the rear at all. A second opinion wouldnt hurt though thats money taken away from the repair since I may or may not get the car repaired at where I got it diagnosed. Definitely not paying BMW $200 to take a look at it.
07-17-2014, 11:42 AM
#12
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
Yea I know about him from Bimmerfest, already tried that route today actually.He told me he doesnt have the time or a lift to get that kind of work done right now. He usually does engine related repairs. Didnt say he couldnt do it but doesnt have a lift. BMW mechanics in MD are hard to come by thats why I started to DIY and never looked back sense. I'll have to do some more poking around and see if I can find some other places in NY I always there soo. of course MD would be ideal though.
Last edited by Quarta2six; 07-17-2014 at 11:48 AM.
07-17-2014, 04:54 PM
#13
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My Ride: Alpine E60, '09 535i-Premium, Sport and Comfort Access PackageMods: Lux H8 V3 Angel Eyes, Weisslicht LED license plate lights, Interior LED lights, RPI Scoop, Matte Black Grills, Smoked LED side markers & side reflectors, 35% tint all around, and a 3
Yea I know about him from Bimmerfest, already tried that route today actually.He told me he doesnt have the time or a lift to get that kind of work done right now. He usually does engine related repairs. Didnt say he couldnt do it but doesnt have a lift. BMW mechanics in MD are hard to come by thats why I started to DIY and never looked back sense. I'll have to do some more poking around and see if I can find some other places in NY I always there soo. of course MD would be ideal though.
07-18-2014, 05:56 AM
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
BS on coils causing subframe bushing failure.
Also, BS on 15hours to replace rear subframe bushings on an E60.
If you want, I'll look up the ALLDATA time as well as the CCC crash guide time. I've never seen a rear subframe removal pay anywhere near 15 hours on any BMW.
I'll eat my words if I look it up in either guide and see 15 hours.
If you do end up replacing them, now is the time to see if there's an upgraded part somewhere. When I did them on my E30, I snagged a set of Group N bushings that the factory race teams used for the E30 M3 DTM cars. Maybe there's an aftermarket or M car upgrade?
Also, BS on 15hours to replace rear subframe bushings on an E60.
If you want, I'll look up the ALLDATA time as well as the CCC crash guide time. I've never seen a rear subframe removal pay anywhere near 15 hours on any BMW.
I'll eat my words if I look it up in either guide and see 15 hours.
If you do end up replacing them, now is the time to see if there's an upgraded part somewhere. When I did them on my E30, I snagged a set of Group N bushings that the factory race teams used for the E30 M3 DTM cars. Maybe there's an aftermarket or M car upgrade?
Typically subframe bushings can be replaced without removing the unit. BMW has a puller that can take them out one at a time from under the car while the others are still holding up the subframe.
I'm assuming you're talking about bushings item 2: RealOEM.com * BMW E60N 535xi REAR AXLE CARRIER
Oh, and BS on the coilovers being the cause.
I'm assuming you're talking about bushings item 2: RealOEM.com * BMW E60N 535xi REAR AXLE CARRIER
Oh, and BS on the coilovers being the cause.
Maybe you should get a second opinion on where that clunk is coming from. In your other post you stated that the clunk is coming from the front. Being that you have a 6 speed and it's coming from the front, that sounds like a worn guibo. It is known that the guibo wears faster in the manual cars vs. the auto, so that could be your problem...just a guess, tho. Definitely get a 2nd opinion before jumping in on the subframe bushings..
-- Drop the exhaust out of the way
-- Undo the emergency brake cable at the handle inside the car
-- Unbolt the calipers and hang them from something not attached to the subframe
-- Remove the rotors
-- Unbolt the bottom of the struts at the hub
-- Unbolt the driveshaft from the dif
-- Support the subframe and
-- Undo the four bolts that hold the subframe to the vehicle
07-24-2014, 08:50 AM
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I did this on my E61, and replaced them with powerflex. Took about 2-3 hours.
You don't have to undo the emergency cables, just unclip them above the exhuast.
The driveshaft can also be hangin' with the diff still mounted.
But you need to support the rear subframe on both sides, and replace the bushing on at the time.
You will need some speciel tools to get the old bushing out, and some heat will eas' up the process.
You don't have to undo the emergency cables, just unclip them above the exhuast.
The driveshaft can also be hangin' with the diff still mounted.
But you need to support the rear subframe on both sides, and replace the bushing on at the time.
You will need some speciel tools to get the old bushing out, and some heat will eas' up the process.
07-24-2014, 05:11 PM
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I did this on my E61, and replaced them with powerflex. Took about 2-3 hours.
You don't have to undo the emergency cables, just unclip them above the exhuast.
The driveshaft can also be hangin' with the diff still mounted.
But you need to support the rear subframe on both sides, and replace the bushing on at the time.
You will need some speciel tools to get the old bushing out, and some heat will eas' up the process.
You don't have to undo the emergency cables, just unclip them above the exhuast.
The driveshaft can also be hangin' with the diff still mounted.
But you need to support the rear subframe on both sides, and replace the bushing on at the time.
You will need some speciel tools to get the old bushing out, and some heat will eas' up the process.
I'm on the fence about installing them.
07-24-2014, 05:50 PM
#17
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
Dodged a bullet on this one, false alarm bro's. Took the car to another shop yesterday for a second opinion. Car had a bad transmission mount and engine mount on the drivers side(time to get a new indy). I let the shop go ahead and change the transmission mount (both) since it was the lighter of the 2 jobs and didnt cost me much saves me a little time also. Now Im going to tackle the motor mount job but cant seem to find it mentioned in the bentley Idk if its because its that easy or im looking the wrong section I checked the index also but cant find it at all. Has anyone done this repair on there 545/550? I know the other models its a little easier of a job. I have done a search and could not find any DIY's. It would be clutch if someone could help me out with this. I have done a search and came up empty unless there is something I overlooked. I do know engine has to be lifted Im comfortable with that from doing the infamous alternator bracket gasket job weekend warriored that thing PITA. I was positive this info would be in the bentley but couldnt find it might just be to much on the brain. All help is appreciated.
07-25-2014, 07:53 AM
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My Ride: E61 525d
The powerflex bushings are really hard, so I just did the subframe with them. Alle the other bushing have been replaced with oem-like ones, and my Bilstein B8 dampers are so great. Really love them!
After the powerflex have been mounted I can hear some resonating from the exhaust when the converter does the lock-up and engine reach 1.500 rpm, maby its my exhaust that is finished inside?? But I just put it in DS, then it disapears. Or just accelerate
After the powerflex have been mounted I can hear some resonating from the exhaust when the converter does the lock-up and engine reach 1.500 rpm, maby its my exhaust that is finished inside?? But I just put it in DS, then it disapears. Or just accelerate
07-25-2014, 09:39 AM
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The powerflex bushings are really hard, so I just did the subframe with them. Alle the other bushing have been replaced with oem-like ones, and my Bilstein B8 dampers are so great. Really love them!
After the powerflex have been mounted I can hear some resonating from the exhaust when the converter does the lock-up and engine reach 1.500 rpm, maby its my exhaust that is finished inside?? But I just put it in DS, then it disapears. Or just accelerate
After the powerflex have been mounted I can hear some resonating from the exhaust when the converter does the lock-up and engine reach 1.500 rpm, maby its my exhaust that is finished inside?? But I just put it in DS, then it disapears. Or just accelerate
Sorry to jack your thread Quarta2six.
07-25-2014, 10:13 AM
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
Its all good bro it happens, It would be helpful if you could offer me some info on this motor mount job since you do have a 545 as well. I cant find anything on it in the bentley have you done on your car? Any tips and tricks, things I should know?