Alternator bracket gasket question..... Some advice please!
#21
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
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Without the tool it's a challenge, but it can be done. I somehow managed to do it without the special tool.
I did my waterpump a few years back and the crank pulley had to be removed to access one last bolt for water pump
. While re-installing the crank pulley I had the compressor belt on it. I had to literally stretch the belt with the pulley and get just one bolt installed. When that bolt went in the rest was cake.
I did my waterpump a few years back and the crank pulley had to be removed to access one last bolt for water pump
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Water pump longevity vary greatly, anywhere from 50k to +100k miles. Mine crapped out at about 65k. Personally I'd replace it only when it starts to hint of bad bearing: faint and rapid clattering at the pump so to speak. Use of a mechanics stethoscope helped me diagnose my problem.
The thermostat is a much easier repair and a fairly cheap part so that I'd probably do.
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I think this covers the majority of the tools you will need, but I may have neglected a common tool or two from the list...
- Ratchet and various wrenches
- A few extensions and universal
- Screwdrivers
- Breaker bar
- Set of Metric sockets (think I used a standard socket or two also)
- Hex bits
- Torx bits
- External Torx sockets
- Belt Tool I used was universal I got off ebay and a PITA. There are model specific tools that may work easier. Here's a quick link to the one I got Bottom-line pricing on Private Brand Tools - 70990 at ToolTopia.com&
(although the how-to video that comes with it, and also on youtube, makes the process seem effortless while the engine is out of the car and on a stand...LOL) I found that I had to place the belt on the compressor first, using the tool and turning the crank pulley with the breaker bar and socket (22 mm I think), stretch the belt little by little while also prying it onto the crank pulley with a large screwdriver, and while also holding the tool in place. An extra set of hands may help!! Also, I had a hose bracket attached to the front of the compressor that I had to bend a bit to get clearance for the tool.
- Jack and jack stands (unless you have a lift)
- Rhino ramps (unless you have a lift)
- Jack and block of wood (unless you have an engine hoist)
- Beer
Regarding what can go wrong...maybe strip a bolt head, damage an electrical wire, break a tab off the tensioner pulley while reinstalling and having to order a new one, car could fall on you, bang your knuckles on some steel...nothing that can't be overcome. One item I neglected to mention...be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while working on this project. You wouldn't want to accidentally ground the pos cable of the alternator and fry your computers.
If you're anything like me, once all the parts are disassembled and laying around you may have one of those "oh shit, I hope I can put all this back together again so my car will work" moments. Don't be intimidated. Like I said in the first post (although maybe over simplified) you're just unbolting stuff and bolting it back on.
- Ratchet and various wrenches
- A few extensions and universal
- Screwdrivers
- Breaker bar
- Set of Metric sockets (think I used a standard socket or two also)
- Hex bits
- Torx bits
- External Torx sockets
- Belt Tool I used was universal I got off ebay and a PITA. There are model specific tools that may work easier. Here's a quick link to the one I got Bottom-line pricing on Private Brand Tools - 70990 at ToolTopia.com&
(although the how-to video that comes with it, and also on youtube, makes the process seem effortless while the engine is out of the car and on a stand...LOL) I found that I had to place the belt on the compressor first, using the tool and turning the crank pulley with the breaker bar and socket (22 mm I think), stretch the belt little by little while also prying it onto the crank pulley with a large screwdriver, and while also holding the tool in place. An extra set of hands may help!! Also, I had a hose bracket attached to the front of the compressor that I had to bend a bit to get clearance for the tool.
- Jack and jack stands (unless you have a lift)
- Rhino ramps (unless you have a lift)
- Jack and block of wood (unless you have an engine hoist)
- Beer
Regarding what can go wrong...maybe strip a bolt head, damage an electrical wire, break a tab off the tensioner pulley while reinstalling and having to order a new one, car could fall on you, bang your knuckles on some steel...nothing that can't be overcome. One item I neglected to mention...be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while working on this project. You wouldn't want to accidentally ground the pos cable of the alternator and fry your computers.
If you're anything like me, once all the parts are disassembled and laying around you may have one of those "oh shit, I hope I can put all this back together again so my car will work" moments. Don't be intimidated. Like I said in the first post (although maybe over simplified) you're just unbolting stuff and bolting it back on.
Last edited by myates3; 01-24-2013 at 12:07 PM.
#24
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My Ride: 2005 E60 545i Manual, Sport, L7
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What brand water pump do you guys use except OEM
I ordered Crapt water pump from AutoHouse. Which is the OE supplier for BMW?
And where to buy it?
I ordered Crapt water pump from AutoHouse. Which is the OE supplier for BMW?
And where to buy it?
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My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
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For water pumps I'd suggest ecstuning.com they have the OEM ones, plus they have OEM upgraded ones that have metal impellers, as opposed to the plastic impeller on the OEM pump.
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Sry to thread jack, but while we are on the topic of water pumps... What exactly is the difference in the electric WP on my 06 N52 525i, vs the "second generation" electronic WP used on the newer 528, and 328 N52, N51?
#27
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My Ride: 2005 E60 545i Manual, Sport, L7
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[QUOTE=pjinca;1488052]For water pumps I'd suggest ecstuning.com they have the OEM ones, plus they have OEM upgraded ones that have metal impellers, as opposed to the plastic impeller on the OEM pump.[/QUOTE
I checked ECS tuning but they only have re manufactured OEM pump and Craf brand that costs much less at AutoHouse. I decieded not to order Remunufactued one after reading some members comments and experience with it. just want to know if anyone have Craf water pump and how durable are they?
I checked ECS tuning but they only have re manufactured OEM pump and Craf brand that costs much less at AutoHouse. I decieded not to order Remunufactued one after reading some members comments and experience with it. just want to know if anyone have Craf water pump and how durable are they?
#28
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myates3 covered what you need. Just make sure you clean the alt bracket and the mating surface on the block very well before installation. Also use a bit of sealant. As for water pumps I just ordered a Beck/Arnley. Metal impeller, heavy duty bearings, long warranty. The upper timing cover isn't hard, especially when you have everything removed for the alt bracket. Make sure you get new gaskets including Vanos o-rings. Those will probably give you the most trouble. I oiled mine and used a rubber mallet to lightly tap them into place.
Last edited by 545iMike; 01-24-2013 at 03:21 PM.
#29
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
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myates3 covered what you need. Just make sure you clean the alt bracket and the mating surface on the block very well before installation. Also use a bit of sealant. As for water pumps I just ordered a Beck/Arnley. Metal impeller, heavy duty bearings, long warranty. The upper timing cover isn't hard, especially when you have everything removed for the alt bracket. Make sure you get new gaskets including Vanos o-rings. Those will probably give you the most trouble. I oiled mine and used a rubber mallet to lightly tap them into place.
Last edited by Quarta2six; 01-24-2013 at 06:02 PM.
#30
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My Ride: 04' 545, 6 Spd Manual, Blk Lthr, Sport Pkg, Sport Sts, Logic 7, Cold Wthr Pkg, Full L.E.D. Interior, Red Eng. Cvr, Mtech Front Bmpr, M5 Spoiler, Matte Blk Grill, Red Caps, Slttd & Drlld Rotors, 20
Model Year: 2004
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think this covers the majority of the tools you will need, but I may have neglected a common tool or two from the list...
- Ratchet and various wrenches
- A few extensions and universal
- Screwdrivers
- Breaker bar
- Set of Metric sockets (think I used a standard socket or two also)
- Hex bits
- Torx bits
- External Torx sockets
- Belt Tool I used was universal I got off ebay and a PITA. There are model specific tools that may work easier. Here's a quick link to the one I got Bottom-line pricing on Private Brand Tools - 70990 at ToolTopia.com&
(although the how-to video that comes with it, and also on youtube, makes the process seem effortless while the engine is out of the car and on a stand...LOL) I found that I had to place the belt on the compressor first, using the tool and turning the crank pulley with the breaker bar and socket (22 mm I think), stretch the belt little by little while also prying it onto the crank pulley with a large screwdriver, and while also holding the tool in place. An extra set of hands may help!! Also, I had a hose bracket attached to the front of the compressor that I had to bend a bit to get clearance for the tool.
- Jack and jack stands (unless you have a lift)
- Rhino ramps (unless you have a lift)
- Jack and block of wood (unless you have an engine hoist)
- Beer
Regarding what can go wrong...maybe strip a bolt head, damage an electrical wire, break a tab off the tensioner pulley while reinstalling and having to order a new one, car could fall on you, bang your knuckles on some steel...nothing that can't be overcome. One item I neglected to mention...be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while working on this project. You wouldn't want to accidentally ground the pos cable of the alternator and fry your computers.
If you're anything like me, once all the parts are disassembled and laying around you may have one of those "oh shit, I hope I can put all this back together again so my car will work" moments. Don't be intimidated. Like I said in the first post (although maybe over simplified) you're just unbolting stuff and bolting it back on.
- Ratchet and various wrenches
- A few extensions and universal
- Screwdrivers
- Breaker bar
- Set of Metric sockets (think I used a standard socket or two also)
- Hex bits
- Torx bits
- External Torx sockets
- Belt Tool I used was universal I got off ebay and a PITA. There are model specific tools that may work easier. Here's a quick link to the one I got Bottom-line pricing on Private Brand Tools - 70990 at ToolTopia.com&
(although the how-to video that comes with it, and also on youtube, makes the process seem effortless while the engine is out of the car and on a stand...LOL) I found that I had to place the belt on the compressor first, using the tool and turning the crank pulley with the breaker bar and socket (22 mm I think), stretch the belt little by little while also prying it onto the crank pulley with a large screwdriver, and while also holding the tool in place. An extra set of hands may help!! Also, I had a hose bracket attached to the front of the compressor that I had to bend a bit to get clearance for the tool.
- Jack and jack stands (unless you have a lift)
- Rhino ramps (unless you have a lift)
- Jack and block of wood (unless you have an engine hoist)
- Beer
Regarding what can go wrong...maybe strip a bolt head, damage an electrical wire, break a tab off the tensioner pulley while reinstalling and having to order a new one, car could fall on you, bang your knuckles on some steel...nothing that can't be overcome. One item I neglected to mention...be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while working on this project. You wouldn't want to accidentally ground the pos cable of the alternator and fry your computers.
If you're anything like me, once all the parts are disassembled and laying around you may have one of those "oh shit, I hope I can put all this back together again so my car will work" moments. Don't be intimidated. Like I said in the first post (although maybe over simplified) you're just unbolting stuff and bolting it back on.