Quarta2six

Hopefully I can too... While trying to stretch the belt are you risking bending anything? You think I should change the water pump and thermostat when I attempt to tackle this job?

e6t.lab.rat

Answer to your first question is No. Just be sure that the bolt you initially install on the crank goes in straight. Finger tighten it in and you should be good to go. The bolt will not finger thread in if its not staight. Took me a few attemps but I managed to get it done.

Water pump longevity vary greatly, anywhere from 50k to +100k miles. Mine crapped out at about 65k. Personally I'd replace it only when it starts to hint of bad bearing: faint and rapid clattering at the pump so to speak. Use of a mechanics stethoscope helped me diagnose my problem.

The thermostat is a much easier repair and a fairly cheap part so that I'd probably do.

myates3

I think this covers the majority of the tools you will need, but I may have neglected a common tool or two from the list...
- Ratchet and various wrenches
- A few extensions and universal
- Screwdrivers
- Breaker bar
- Set of Metric sockets (think I used a standard socket or two also)
- Hex bits
- Torx bits
- External Torx sockets
- Belt Tool I used was universal I got off ebay and a PITA. There are model specific tools that may work easier. Here's a quick link to the one I got Bottom-line pricing on Private Brand Tools - 70990 at ToolTopia.com&
(although the how-to video that comes with it, and also on youtube, makes the process seem effortless while the engine is out of the car and on a stand...LOL) I found that I had to place the belt on the compressor first, using the tool and turning the crank pulley with the breaker bar and socket (22 mm I think), stretch the belt little by little while also prying it onto the crank pulley with a large screwdriver, and while also holding the tool in place. An extra set of hands may help!! Also, I had a hose bracket attached to the front of the compressor that I had to bend a bit to get clearance for the tool.
- Jack and jack stands (unless you have a lift)
- Rhino ramps (unless you have a lift)
- Jack and block of wood (unless you have an engine hoist)
- Beer

Regarding what can go wrong...maybe strip a bolt head, damage an electrical wire, break a tab off the tensioner pulley while reinstalling and having to order a new one, car could fall on you, bang your knuckles on some steel...nothing that can't be overcome. One item I neglected to mention...be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while working on this project. You wouldn't want to accidentally ground the pos cable of the alternator and fry your computers.

If you're anything like me, once all the parts are disassembled and laying around you may have one of those "oh shit, I hope I can put all this back together again so my car will work" moments. Don't be intimidated. Like I said in the first post (although maybe over simplified) you're just unbolting stuff and bolting it back on.

Margal

What brand water pump do you guys use except OEM
I ordered Crapt water pump from AutoHouse. Which is the OE supplier for BMW?
And where to buy it?

pjinca

For water pumps I'd suggest ecstuning.com they have the OEM ones, plus they have OEM upgraded ones that have metal impellers, as opposed to the plastic impeller on the OEM pump.

pradden

Sry to thread jack, but while we are on the topic of water pumps... What exactly is the difference in the electric WP on my 06 N52 525i, vs the "second generation" electronic WP used on the newer 528, and 328 N52, N51?

Margal

[QUOTE=pjinca;1488052]For water pumps I'd suggest ecstuning.com they have the OEM ones, plus they have OEM upgraded ones that have metal impellers, as opposed to the plastic impeller on the OEM pump.[/QUOTE

I checked ECS tuning but they only have re manufactured OEM pump and Craf brand that costs much less at AutoHouse. I decieded not to order Remunufactued one after reading some members comments and experience with it. just want to know if anyone have Craf water pump and how durable are they?

545iMike

myates3 covered what you need. Just make sure you clean the alt bracket and the mating surface on the block very well before installation. Also use a bit of sealant. As for water pumps I just ordered a Beck/Arnley. Metal impeller, heavy duty bearings, long warranty. The upper timing cover isn't hard, especially when you have everything removed for the alt bracket. Make sure you get new gaskets including Vanos o-rings. Those will probably give you the most trouble. I oiled mine and used a rubber mallet to lightly tap them into place.

Quarta2six

Ok... One more thing I think, I've been looking for the torques to the various bolts I think I have to take out. I found motor mount bolts 38nm and alternator to bracket 43nm what Im confused about is the bracket itself is only held on by the motor mount bolts? I cant find torque specs for the bracket to the block. Also is any of the taking off the power steering pump different if I have active steering?

Quarta2six

You the man bro... I have pretty much everything you listed except the external torx sockets im gonna pick those up tomorrow. I can remove upper timing cover without removing the cover for the cylinder head? According to the TIS i have to do that first thats a piece of work in itself.