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535i Hazard Lights Flash Randomly

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Old 10-01-2019, 08:09 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by audiophool
Try this: press the volume - and preset down buttons on the steering wheel with the engine running. Press volume up until the speedo is pointing to 30 and look where the tach needle is pointing. That is your shift light setpoint. When in that spot, try using the preset down button and move the tach down to say 2000. To exit press volume down until the tach resumes reading correctly. Now your shift lights will come on at 2000 rpm - a much easier to spot speed.
But, ideally, shouldn't the shift points be different for every gear? Or the JB4 isn't that sophisticated.
Old 10-02-2019, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by FormerE30Owner
But, ideally, shouldn't the shift points be different for every gear? Or the JB4 isn't that sophisticated.
Not really. Best acceleration is achieved by maximizing 'area under the curve'. Torque curve, that is. N54 has a flat torque curve (more like a plateau) that falls after 5500. I've found best 0-100 time is starting in 2nd, and WOT to 5500 rpm then force upshift in manual. Setting the JB4 rpm flash at 5000 allows reaction time to make the shift before the torque starts to fall away. 1st gear is a waste of time as it's over in a flash, and running to 7000 is just an exercise in noise. DTC button pressed so the chirp shifting into 3rd doesn't make it fall on its face.
Old 10-02-2019, 08:07 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by audiophool
Not really. Best acceleration is achieved by maximizing 'area under the curve'. Torque curve, that is. N54 has a flat torque curve (more like a plateau) that falls after 5500. I've found best 0-100 time is starting in 2nd, and WOT to 5500 rpm then force upshift in manual. Setting the JB4 rpm flash at 5000 allows reaction time to make the shift before the torque starts to fall away. 1st gear is a waste of time as it's over in a flash, and running to 7000 is just an exercise in noise. DTC button pressed so the chirp shifting into 3rd doesn't make it fall on its face.
I'll have to think about that, but I really think that it is the area under the HP curve that counts, since that indicates the total amount of work done over time. Torque is simply the effort supplied by the engine. But this is an "age-old" discussion of torque versus power (HP).
Old 10-03-2019, 03:19 AM
  #14  
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Once I get the car back up and running (coolant expansion tank cracked this past weekend), then I'll take some time and download the manuals and see if I can actually connect to it via bluetooth (not sure what unit I have). I honestly probably won't spend a lot of time on it, since I'm just running it in bypass anyway. I'm still trying to get acquainted with the car and that's really just another thing to add to the experience later.

Thanks again, everyone that chimed in! Glad we got to the bottom of it. It at least gives me comfort knowing that there's not some strange gremlin in the system.
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Old 10-03-2019, 07:32 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by FormerE30Owner
I'll have to think about that, but I really think that it is the area under the HP curve that counts, since that indicates the total amount of work done over time. Torque is simply the effort supplied by the engine. But this is an "age-old" discussion of torque versus power (HP).
People buy horsepower, but you drive torque. 5500 happens to be about where peak HP is too. Driving past peak hp doesn't work for me on this car - just makes more noise and engine wear. It was different with my S38B36 though - that one made peak HP at redline and had a very peaky torque curve...

Sometimes I'll put the 535 in DS and peg it just to give it an Italian tuneup though. Jumps off the line better this way for sure - maybe good for your 60' times. Definitely need DTS mode for this activity as it'll spin all four when it shifts, and DSC pulls the plug when that happens. Love DTC for winter driving - wife as passenger, not so much...
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