Maku Ansonī Rodorigesu

My car has been having issues giving me the correct fuel amount in my tank, the code it threw was about the fuel level sensor. Since there is two, one in the fuel pump and one in the fuel filter, I replaced both. I let the fuel pump prime and the fuel level is still off and bouncing from a quarter to between a quarter and half full. I just filled up the tank and nothing has changed. I was wondering if there is anything i overlooked when installing the fuel pump and fuel filter. I made sure to connect every connector but im not sure what could be wrong, thoughts?

seanjordan20

That sensor should be in the engine bay just under the valve body

seanjordan20

High Pressure - 13-53-7-537-319
Low pressure - 13-53-7-622-231

Don't forget about the a new oring (13-53-7-559-991). They sit on the fuel rail

seanjordan20

Forget what I said above I was thinking of something else. What code were you getting? Your install is probably wrong. If it wasn't connected right you would know immediately. What brand did you use

Maku Ansonī Rodorigesu

I used bosch parts and installed new o rings on both sides.
The code is gone and after driving it for about an hour the range has increased but the actual needle gauge has been stuck right under a quarter.

scottalexander

My guess is...

When you installed the fuel components in the tank you trapped the connections around the fuel sensor float.

Now the sensor can't reach the right level and report it to the gauge because its trapped.

All the connection and wires are put in the tank in a certain way so the float can swing free with the rise and fall of fuel.

Maku Ansonī Rodorigesu

About a week and a half ago I rechecked my installation and add new new o-rings and that seems to have fixed the issue, I've been testing out the sensors and what not before declaring this issue fixed but everything seems to be working and functioning just properly now. I took out both the fuel filter and pump and made sure the floaters could float, upon initial inspection I didn't see any obstructions on either side that would cause them not to be able to float. I replaced the o-rings before re-tightening the caps and I made sure the fuel pump stayed down as it had some resistance and popped up a slight bit. I read on other forums that this could as cause the mis-reading of the fuel sensors. So I ensured the fuel filter was pushed down while I tighten the cap down.

scottalexander

The metal lock ring gets torqued to 33 ft lbs.

This is one reason why you want to spend $10 and buy the lock ring removal tool off of eBay. Now you can torque it properly to 33 ft lbs.

You put in a new O ring.

Its always a good idea to get a new lock ring when doing work to the fuel filter and pump. If you don't use the right tool, the ring could get damaged and it gets rusty.

Maku Ansonī Rodorigesu

I do have the OEM tool used for then and I did torque it down to 31 because I didn't know what the proper specs were. Also do you have a link for new caps I tried searching for them.

scottalexander

See part #5 in the URL link below.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=16_0553