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Injectors wouldn't normally fail as a whole bank all in one go...
One way or another this is likely to be a single point of failure. I am still guessing an electrical issue, whether a sensor or some wiring and it doesn't scream out vacuum to me.
Since you are doing the smoke test you'll also get to run it a bit longer and check codes again at least. Considering not just the faults that remained but also the faults that disappeared is worth doing. Why no exhaust cam fault any more? I would like to see if that returns after more running. There was a guy with an X5 and N62 who had that fault and the gear the sensor reads had fallen off the cam, if I recall correctly. Surprisingly easy fix.
Yes I plan on replacing the part but it seems it is not as big as an issue as the misfiring, rough idle, not starting etc. Unless you think those are connected to the purge valve?
yes could likely be, worthwhile replacing it as it’s easy and relatively cheap to do
Well here is the update we have all been waiting for:
After many hours trying to get the sensors out and back in (If only BMW put them in the front of not the back under everything else) and finally figuring out the INPA software, the same codes have returned.
I switched the camshaft sensors, cleared the codes, started the car and it idled really really rough for about 10 seconds and the error code popped up and shut the car down. I then checked the eccentric shaft sensors only to find them bone dry. When I pulled up the codes again I got:
P0330- Random misfires detected P0305- Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0308- Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0306- Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307- Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
The missing 4 purge and emissions codes don't concern me as much as the missing camshaft code. Is the missing code indicative of anything or do the car just not run long enough for it too come up? Can anybody make anything of this?
Today I tried everything I can think of to try, so any new suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
those purge/tank vent codes will not be activated right away, IIRC with me they would appear after the second or third trip, when I had that issue. You could tap the valve JIC it’s stuck in the open position and likely it could close when doing so AND if car then runs without misfires you’re gonna know...
Today I constructed a smoke tester and used it on the car. At first I wasn't getting anything but after adjusting it I was getting a small amount of smoke through a breather hose on the left side of the engine (See picture). I had previously had an issue about 4 months ago with this hose being cracked but I had slapped some tape on there and everything was fine. When the current problem started the first thing I did was remove the old tape and re-tape it but it seems there is still a leak. There also may have been some smoke coming from the oil cap but it was hard to tell because it was so close to the hose.
I will replace that hose but I have been looking for some time now and I can't find a replacement. Could this create all of the misfires? Has anybody had to replace this?
I smacked the purge valve a couple times, put the intake back together, and tried to start the car. I stuck a battery pack on the front because the battery was a little low from the last couple times starting it. Anyways I cleared the misfire codes and cranked her over about 5 times before I gave up. I couldn't get it started so for kicks I read the codes to see if anything came back. This time I got the code below, 299B communication with DME. This is the first time I have seen it and I'm not sure how to fix it.
I feels that there are just more and more problems arising everytime.
1. Put the battery to charge. Use the charge points in the engine bay or do it with the -ve terminal disconnected. I suggest disconnection, might as well.
2. Consider just going ahead and replacing the purge valve. Cmyachtie is right, if it happens to be stuck open then it acts like a (big) vacuum leak. You have the code, might as well address it with a relatively inexpensive part. Alternatively find a way to ensure it is closed (stuck closed will not affect engine running like stuck open would).
When you come back to it in four hours or so, you will have fresh eyes again. It might be talking to the DME again due to battery charge, or it might not. If it's not, then that is sort of (but only sort of) bad. DME is the engine ECU. If you have lost communication with that, then you are just looking at this big mix of semi-unrelated error codes that all point to an electrical issue, possibly a fairly basic one. I would be looking carefully at all the ground points (there must be a diagram for the E60 floating around) and visually check all the plugs and wires you can lay your eyes on. But first, it's possible that by the time you hook the battery up the DME code will be gone.
I do not think you are looking for a small vacuum leak in your case. If the problem is a vacuum leak then it's not a tiny one.
You will get to the bottom of this. It's going to be peripheral stuff, not like a seized motor or similar catastrophe. I always have to remind myself to slow down when I am trying to tackle these kinds of things.
1. Put the battery to charge. Use the charge points in the engine bay or do it with the -ve terminal disconnected. I suggest disconnection, might as well.
2. Consider just going ahead and replacing the purge valve. Cmyachtie is right, if it happens to be stuck open then it acts like a (big) vacuum leak. You have the code, might as well address it with a relatively inexpensive part. Alternatively find a way to ensure it is closed (stuck closed will not affect engine running like stuck open would).
When you come back to it in four hours or so, you will have fresh eyes again. It might be talking to the DME again due to battery charge, or it might not. If it's not, then that is sort of (but only sort of) bad. DME is the engine ECU. If you have lost communication with that, then you are just looking at this big mix of semi-unrelated error codes that all point to an electrical issue, possibly a fairly basic one. I would be looking carefully at all the ground points (there must be a diagram for the E60 floating around) and visually check all the plugs and wires you can lay your eyes on. But first, it's possible that by the time you hook the battery up the DME code will be gone.
I do not think you are looking for a small vacuum leak in your case. If the problem is a vacuum leak then it's not a tiny one.
You will get to the bottom of this. It's going to be peripheral stuff, not like a seized motor or similar catastrophe. I always have to remind myself to slow down when I am trying to tackle these kinds of things.
Alright thanks. I know that these cars hate low voltage from batteries so it could very well be the problem. I am going to just pull it and throw it on the charger tomorrow.
Being this car is just about as old as I am and I have already put quite a bit of money into it at this point, I am hesitant to just keep throwing in more. However, however much the parts are, it is still probably cheaper than buying a new car and this being my first car I am truly in love with her. That being said I bought a new purge valve and breather hoses and I will continue troubleshooting from there.
Thank you everyone who has replied so far, I would be sitting here clueless if it weren't for you guys.
01-15-2021, 07:10 PM
