naenyc

Hi,

I am having the same issues as Deano in this thread: 2004 545i.

https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...e-help-145481/

2865: DME: Variable valve gear - power limitation in limp home operating mode

Seanjordan20 makes an excellent suggestion, #12, to replace the Ebox Fan. An Ebay replacement is arriving tomorrow as well as Bluetooth temperature sensor to monitor heat in Ebox.

There are so many “strange” symptoms, that any help would be appreciated before ripping the DME/ECU out.

Before I go into detail, note that the car sat for 5 months and water entered into the passenger side, taking out the Active Steering Module, which has been replaced and works just fine.



Main SYMPTOM:

Car runs perfectly until I stop, which is recently at Advance Auto/Autozone for battery/alternator test or Costco for new battery.

Immediately after starting, it enters “drivetrain malfunction”, stage 1, and cannot be cleared with ISTA or INPA. Always bank 2 with a slew of errors.

While driving home in the 90 degree temperature it entered stage 2, where the vehicle becomes un-drivable. While waiting for a tow truck for an hour, it suddenly reverted to stage 1 where it was very happy to drive at 60 miles per hour home. Maybe the high speed cools the ECU.

The codes CANNOT be cleared, but next morning everything is perfect again. Rinse and repeat. While checking the cooling, we started the car for a few minutes, shut it off, and while backing out of the driveway, “drivetrain malfunction”.



Strange Symptom 1.

• · The 1 year old auxiliary water pump seems to have failed.
• · Cannot bleed the system.
• · https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/n...ooling.954304/
• · Can’t find INPA/ISTA bleeding menu
• REST doesn’t seem to activate pump

Strange Symptom 2:

• · Radiator fan does not activate upon start-up
• · Bentley: “When the vehicle is first started the ECM activates the electric fan briefly at 20% of its maximum value”
• · HOWEVER, INPA can activate it successfully.
• · AC activates fan.

Strange Symptom 3:

• · Fan doesn’t seem to come on while the car idles in the hot sun; thought it did in the past.
• · Engine seems to get hot

Strange Symptom 4: And the biggest effort so far

• · The alternator was replaced 200 miles ago with Valeo.
• · Battery was evidently weak.
• · Advance Auto noted a bad diode in alternator.
• · Replacement alternator from FCP euro, thanks to warranty
• · New H8 Interstate battery from Costco.
• · Advance Auto states bad diode again.
• · Drive across street Autozone states can’t be tested at all.
• · Drive to Costco to get replacement battery 5/22/2022.
• · Autozone states battery can’t be tested even though I drove directly from Costco to Autozone.
• · So two batteries and alternators and still have electrical issues.

And the bank 2, driver’s side eccentric shaft sensor is new, Oem a few hundred miles ago, with no oil on it. Replaced after we did the horrendous valve stem seal/coolant pipe ordeals.

1. Basic Error

2.


3. Extended Errors:

4.


5. Advance Auto Report

6.






UPDATE:

• Decided to execute an even more controlled test this morning:
• Car cold no errors(disappeared over night)
• Coolants output and Coolant temp 26.25/59.25

ü


Eccentric Shaft Values: OK

ü


7 Minutes later, temperature hits 105. Output temp: 65

Fan activates.

ü


3 Minutes later. Temp drops 105-> 103.5: Coolant temp: 65.25-> 56.25

Car runs perfectly, nor errors.

ü


30 minutes later, basically 50 minutes after start:

Bank 2 Eccentric Shaft reading flickers, snapping back from 176 -> 100

Drivetrain Malfunction activated.

ü






Definitely appears to be heat related. Any ideas ECU? Eccentric Shaft Sensor? VTT? Electrical?



Regards,

Nels Eliassen

habbyguy

I really didn't get past the aux water pump not working. Beyond that, it's just a question of how hot the engine will get before shutting down. Maybe I missed it, but why would you move past that looking for other ways to explain too much heat?

I suspect that your alternator and battery problems are auto parts store "techs" not having a clue, but you could be a very rare exception (to the rule that no one has that many sequential failures of brand new parts).

naenyc

habbyguy,

You were correct about the aux water pump, think my hearing is going. It is working, felt the vibrations. Though it is only used for the heater and REST functions as I recall. And the coolant temp never get's past 105.

Update:
Switched Valvetronic motors and "2855" error came back on the SAME side, bank 2, drivers after 40 minutes. I was convinced that the problem was solved.
NOTE: The other errors are not triggered immediately. They take a period of time after the "002855".

Is it possible that I have a bad cable from the E-Box?

ANY ideas on what causes a time/heat sensitive issue? IVM, integrated voltage module? ECM overheating? Cable heating up? or simply the eccentric shaft sensor warms up and fails.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. When I explained that issue with the alternators to FCP Euro and asked for clarification on how to test, their answer was to send me a 3rd Alternator
P.S.S. If anyone wants to help debug this issue, please contact and I'll Venmo the funds.

naenyc

Cleaned all the connections again and it idled for 1 hour with the Patton fan blowing on E-Box .. no errors.

Drive from Manchester, MA to Gloucester, MA about 10 miles to NAPA on 90+ degree day. Battery tested fine. Drove 3 miles to Advance Auto and there test failed again, believe their tester doesn't work on 545i.

Walked inside and had a nice discussion, walked out and "Stage 2" Engine malfunction. Waited 30 minutes and went back to Stage 1. Drive home successfully. Next morning all errors gone.

Have 2 VTT controllers coming, very inexpensive, and will change with E-Box fan, which seems to blow properly when activated to INPA.

naenyc

The problem is extremely consistent. Drive the car for a bit, let it sit and 2855 first, then 2863 after clearing 2855, all while in INPA while running.

Replaced the VTT and IVM and the same issue. Really beginning to believe it is the eccentric shaft sensor.

Have new cables arriving for intake and exhaust camshaft sensors, but doubt they are the issue.

REALLY hope it isn't the wiring harness.