LCI taillights retrofit by using NCS and simple retrofit wiring kit
#21
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Actually Ehssan, the Bruce's cable, at least V6 (that I know), does provide error if the brake bulb(s) is blown/removed.
I have tested this long before when I was figuring out the brake effects.
In any case, the reality is that some business will probably not occur for the v6.1 cable once Ehssan release the info, but that's what the community is about anyway. Similar to how the VIM for CIC was defeated.
With that said, at the end of the day, we're all after the same thing: making our cars look awesome![Hyper](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/hyper.gif)
I have tested this long before when I was figuring out the brake effects.
In any case, the reality is that some business will probably not occur for the v6.1 cable once Ehssan release the info, but that's what the community is about anyway. Similar to how the VIM for CIC was defeated.
With that said, at the end of the day, we're all after the same thing: making our cars look awesome
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Nicely done Ehssan. Can't wait for a write-up.
I'm not going to bash anyone's business here, Bruce, but Vendors should not try to dispute working alternatives. :thumbsdown:
I'm not going to bash anyone's business here, Bruce, but Vendors should not try to dispute working alternatives. :thumbsdown:
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My Ride: 2006 520d - 19" 172s- Remapped - LCI taillights V6 cables - LCI xenon headlights - Denison 500 with BTA1500 - led interior lights - OEM led number plate lights
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Please confirm if coding will be required to reinstall the pre-LCI taillights (for example if selling the car) and if error msgs will come up should one of the bulbs blow
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545ier :
jas_r_1 : Once you do the swap , you don't need your pre-lci taillights anymore , if you are planing to sell the car with the LCI's then get rid of the old ones as soon as you have the new ones installed/coded , no error for sure .
I will start one more test session tomorrow night to confirm the gadget, looks like when it comes to coding the LM1 , there are 3 different versions , so I'm working on something standard which gives the same affect on all the cars ..
to make things worse , I end up having a first degree sun burn because of the beach on Thursday .. so wish me luck guys .. I can't even put a t-shirt on ,,,
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jas_r_1 : Once you do the swap , you don't need your pre-lci taillights anymore , if you are planing to sell the car with the LCI's then get rid of the old ones as soon as you have the new ones installed/coded , no error for sure .
I will start one more test session tomorrow night to confirm the gadget, looks like when it comes to coding the LM1 , there are 3 different versions , so I'm working on something standard which gives the same affect on all the cars ..
to make things worse , I end up having a first degree sun burn because of the beach on Thursday .. so wish me luck guys .. I can't even put a t-shirt on ,,,
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My Ride: 2006 520d - 19" 172s- Remapped - LCI taillights V6 cables - LCI xenon headlights - Denison 500 with BTA1500 - led interior lights - OEM led number plate lights
Planned mods:
Folding mirrors - Modmynav kit - High gloss shadowline trim -
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So if I wanted to refit the pre-LCI lights, will coding need to be put back?
You said no errors so does that mean we will get no warning if one of the bulbs blow - as Bruce is stating
Thanks
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Model Year: 2006
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But I think my response was completely mis-understood. I will tell you why there are shortcomings with this design and how to solve them.
1. In the LM1 (may-be some versions) when you connect both Brake lines in parallel you will get an error on the idrive when you hit the brakes. The reason for this is that the resistance is halved on the bulbs and the car detects this as a Brake light failure. To get around this, I would keep the Brake and Tail bulbs as the same but coded them in such a way that both brakes become the normal brakes.
2. It is absolutely True that the LED bars in this solution are the brightest they will ever get. Connect the LED bars in parallel with the fog and turn off the Warm and Cold monitoring. Connecting them to the fog will make them very dim. But to get around this, all you need to do is to put a diode between the fog and the LED bars and then a Capacitor between the LED bar lines. That will take the LED bars to full brightness all the time.
3. In any case I would switch the Check Control back on for the Turn and the LED bars. So that even though the car doesn't continously monitor the bulbs it will check it atleast at start-up. This is how BMW does this for all LEDs, e.g. See the Middle Brake light that has always been LED.
This will be my last comment on this thread.
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Thanks for your response but If I sell my car I don't believe I would get the money the lights are worth on top of the car as most likely car will be purchased by someone who doesn't know how much these lights are worth.
So if I wanted to refit the pre-LCI lights, will coding need to be put back?
You said no errors so does that mean we will get no warning if one of the bulbs blow - as Bruce is stating
Thanks
So if I wanted to refit the pre-LCI lights, will coding need to be put back?
You said no errors so does that mean we will get no warning if one of the bulbs blow - as Bruce is stating
Thanks
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