Updates on my situation:

I emailed ZF, Here is a transcript of my conversation:

Me: How can I pressure test the E-clutch circuit?

ZF: The E clutch always has a little bit of a leaky sound compared to the A clutch, because of the way it is sealed. The only way to tell if it is damaged is if the fluid was burnt or if you actually inspect it. If the fluid is burnt, based on the code you have I'd say E would be burnt. The pressure check doesn't sound bad. I do not think you have any serious leakage in the clutch. However, the 4F85 code could mean the clutch is burnt. If the vehicle is going into fail safe, and it has been driven in that condition, then the clutch is probably burnt. I would suggest going through the components and replacing worn items including the bushings and pressure regulators.

Me: Actually I have code 4f8A

ZF: The internal shaft and drum bushings should be replaced. The code usually signifies clutch E is burned. Especially if the vehicle was going into fail safe. If the transmission fluid is clean and full, then the issue could be a simple solenoid replacement. If the fluid level was low or burned, then the E clutch is more than likely burned.

Me: How can I tell if the fluid is burned?

zf: Typically, the fluid would smell burnt. I do not know of a test other than lab work. If the fluid is caramel-light brown in color, but it doesn't smell burnt, it is probably alright.
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I attempted an additional service of the car 4 weeks ago. My Bridge seal was in decent shape, not torn but the edges were fairly bowed in. I still think it was probably holding pressure despite this. The finger seals were also in decent shape but quite hard. At that time I didn't replace the solenoids because I wasn't having any shifting issues other than this 4-5 slip, but if it got worse I would look at the solenoids. I was also experiencing the 2-1 bump which was annoying. I reused my old fluid. After this job the trans shifted very smooth from 1-4, there was a slight bump going in to 5 and a noticeable bump going in to 6th.

I managed to get the car back together after a heck of a time re-installing. I put it all back together once and attempted to start the car, but it didnt start, and the shifter was jammed! The shifter issue was due to having the shifter rod and the slider on the mechatronic misaligned. The piston on the mechatronic side was jammed against the selector rod, so I was really fortunate that I didn't break it. This required draining and removing the pan and mechatronic to reset.

Secondly, I did not disconnect the battery during this service and when I went to reconnect the mechatronic connector I didn't twist it to the full lock position. I had a lost communication fault with the transmission. Codes were CD99, CD9E, CD9D, CDB0. Diagnosing using the ZF guide led me to test for voltage at the power supply pins of the connector, and I was missing voltage at pin 14 which is the ignition power for the trans. I had a blown fuse, F01 in my 330i, so that was my issue there.

Thirdly in all my troubleshooting I still couldnt get the car to start after this fuse re-insertion, so I had to disconnect the battery and charge it up. I think letting the car lose all power and then giving it a full charge really helped, after clearing codes on the DME the car finally started.


The car was driving good until I gave it a bootful of throttle accelerating on to the highway and I got slip again. I pulled a different code, 4f86 for the 4 to 5 gear change, at 3800 rpm. This was AFTER completing the bridge and 4 finger seal replacement. Shifting from 4-5 at around 4k rpm is pretty common experience, so I was anxious to solve this issue. I ordered the solenoids and committed to doing this job a 3rd time.

My fluid was dark brown but did not smell burnt. 10k miles ago I did a fluid and filter change but not flush. The fluid i pulled out a year ago was very dark and dirty, so I imagine that's why I have darker fluid in there now (mixed with the stuff I didnt get out). So according to ZF, if my fluid is in OK shape (clutch hasn't been burnt yet) I was good to replace the solenoids and try again. With my pressure test i'm sure that there is some leakage at the bushing, but perhaps solenoids will help the shift complete faster and minimize the effect of this. In fact, this is exactly what seems to have happened (so far). UPDATE: 4000 miles after the solenoid replacement my shifts are just as good as ever. I havent yet looked at the hydraulic pathways to evaluate which solenoids were bad but my shifting is great so far (knock on wood).

If you are getting trans faults and you have a high mileage trans you will probably benefit from this service. I will update after I've put more miles on the car.

 

Kyle I f**ed up royally. Not knowing the car was no longer in park i pulled the Mechtronics to replace the bridge seal (we were given the wrong one). I had already replaced all the seals with stock parts only to find out this tranny uses the 6hp19-21 bridge seal that is taller. I had fluid in it tires trying to move and then the dashboard indicator just vanished. I tried shifting again and heard dat-dat-dat-dat-dat from the tranny abd no shifting after that.. I finally got the correct bs and went to install it today and when I tried to reinstall the Mechtronics unit it would not go in.i finally discovered the back wheels will turn. I'm assuming this means it wasn't in the park position when I pulled the unit. How can I get this thing back into park if the mechs won't go back in?!?? Please advise as I'm bout ready to pull my tranny fluid filled hair out!!

 

Can you try to re-describe your issue? It's kind of hard to read.

 

Sorry...

Just saw your response.... Glad you got it all worked out...

I drive my 530i Agressive.. I might have the transmission relearn my driving style....... So far so good.....

Having a pain with this Sunroof Drain Bullshi* though.... About to replace the sunroof seal.... Take the headliner down.... etc..... SIB 54 02 08

That's going to be an entire new thread... maybe I'll take pictures.... Water keeps getting in... under the back seats... If you own a E60.. Lift up your back seat.. Lift all the way out of the vehicle... Flip and check for mold or water...
Also check your carpet..Damn BMW's

 

I have a question about reusing the fluid from the trans. The first change I had was at 120k miles or 200kkm, refilled with about 6 liters of new fluid. So that means the fluid that is in there is about 60% new then, right?

My trans started slipping around 210kkm. I tried to remedy this with bridge and finger seal replacement (which didnt work), and I reused most of the fluid that was in the trans, since the stuff costs about the same as 12 year single malt. At that time I ended up having to use one new bottle of fluid. When I did this solenoid job (which fixed the trans) at 128k miles or 213kkm I again tried to reuse what I could, but did lose a couple liters during the job. I ended up having to use 2 new bottles. The fluid came out quite dark, but not smelly or burnt or black. I guess I've put about 10 liters of new fluid in the trans since 200k km, which would be about the capacity of it.

My question is when or if should I change it next? I'm wondering since it keeps mixing with the old stuff if it's really as 'good' as new fluid. I would guess the fluid in the trans now is around 75% 'worn.' Would I want to do another fluid change in 45k miles? That would be about 60k km on the new fluid mixture. What is everyone's recommendation for fluid changes at higher mileages?

Thankfully I can drive the car hard again, and do when i get the chance (but a bit less frequently than I used to).

 

 

For those replacing the Mechatronics connector sleeve here’s a highly recommended list of tools making that job somewhat more doable, (skip to post nr 10).
Sleeve tools

 

Well you know that mirror might have came in hand when I did my VB years ago. 😆

 

Since I am going to change fluid again and rather than draining and filling twice to get rid of MOST of the dirty fluid I am contemplating doing this Flushing torque converter instead as I will be replacing the pan/filter anyway.
This looks like a much better solution, just curious if anyone here has done this also and how it went?
i find this rather ingenious.....

 

I'm in the process of this overhaul, thanks for the write up! My tranny faulted and quit, then would t go into gear after I cleared the codes. We put it on stands and mistakenly pulled the fill plug instead of drain plug to check the fluid level. We then added roughly 3-4 quarts. Realising my mistake, we warmed the car and tranny on jackstands, once the temp hit 100° I pulled the drain plug and got exactly a quart of fluid out. I installed the plug, shut the car off and drained the tranny once cool. I got 2 1/2 quarts out then. We then dropped the pan and probably got a quart to a quart and a half out. Is that normal or do you think my tranny was still low or is that a normal amount of fluid? Just curious how many quarts should be in the pan so I'll know roughly how many should be put back.