About to do that myself, but I replace whole strut, so I need to assemble a new one without seeing the old one. I am confused how to put the washer on: it has a black circle on one side and that side is slightly raised. Can anybody hint me on that?

It's part #6 on the diagram:

 

Thanks for the information. Well appreciated.

 

Great Info - Thank you!
Just to add some advice. When the strut is swung out and ready to remove, you can tap a chisel or large screwdriver between the clamp. This allows the strut to slide in/out of position with pretty much zero effort.
Also, remember to inspect/clean and re-grease the top bearing mount. You will notice the roller bearings in there.

 

Thanks for your time and effort.

 

I think theoretically this chisel idea should work, unfortunately, I did not have one or a screw driver thick enough. I still managed to get the fronts swapped out this weekend. Wrench to pry open the clamp portion and hammer tapping out the strut. Steps were easy but sweat pouring hard work! It went back in much more easily.

A side note, using a jack (used the OEM jack from the trunk) to jack from the bottom of the control arm after putting on the strut spring compressor (tightening at the same time you jack it up), the overall length of the strut was short enough to easily tilt out. Without it, I could not clear without scraping the wheel well fender. I had stock sports suspension.

Brakes and spark plugs should be arriving any day now so I'll change those out before wheels go back on and do the rears next weekend.

I have a question about the cambers (kmac stage 2), is this something we can adjust on our own or should have it professionally aligned and keep the settings handy afterwords? I see how it floats around but not sure if the 3pc plates were installed correctly. I couldn't make much sense out of the instructions provided. Having them only on the front ok or should I not have them at all?

thanks
-p

 

One more suggestion when replacing struts - you might as well replace the upper control arms too if you have > 80K miles. You need to remove the strut to do this job. It's simple once the strut is out. (The lower control arms can be replaced without removing the strut).

 

Wanted to add a note about the two tools suggested to loosen/tighten the upper strut securing nut.

I found a 13/16" #30731 ProValue deep socket w/hex top for wrenching.

When my shocks arrived from Rock Auto included with them was the top nut. The 13/16" socket does not fully fit over the nut! It is an extremely tight fit. I can tap it down onto the nut, but I al afraid of the socket becoming jammed. Bummer.

So I am now looking for a 21 mm deep socket with same upper hex stamp for a wrench.

As to the Wera series 1 867/2 Torx bit, I found this at KC Tool in Kansas. KNIPEX and Wiha Tools Specialist, KC Tool - The smart place to buy Wiha Tools..

The item list is http://www.kctoolco.com/Wera-867-2-Z-T40-x-100mm-Torx-Bit-5-16-Drive-p/wr066939.htm

The price was more reasonable than Amazon and the shipping is by USPS for almost 1/2 of what was calculated on Amazon.

More to come as I get further into this.

 

Which shocks did you install?
I read in this series, something about M-sport?
BTW, great right up!!

 

I purchased from Rock Auto the Sachs 310379 and 310380. They were $349.00 total including the UPS freight.

My 530i has the factory sport suspension and Dynamic Drive. I believe the factory sport is referred as Msport.

 

Are you sure those part numbers are accurate? I just looked them up and while they did pull up Sachs shocks, there is nothing in the footnotes about being for cars equipped with 'Sport' or 'M' suspensions.