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Thanks for everyone contributed in this post.. After reading so many replies and research on internet. I have got my E61 2006 reg 520d sorted. I want to share a bit of my experience to help the people who may have the same issue as me.
My particle filter warning light was on about 1 month ago. Mine is a 2006 E61 520d, pre-LCI morel and 128,000 miles done already. I read some article on internet and learn the basic knowledge of DPF, I know I need it get regeneration. So I arrange several trip on motor way, after about 4-5 times try on motor way, I notice this car do not regenerate at all. The warning changed from "1000 miles due to a service" to "100 miles overdue".
As most of the people did, I watched the video on youtube and get into the hidden manual and I noticed my engine temp was only 75 degree, and never get higher than this temp. To fix this issue, I changed both main and EGR thermostat.
After this done, I test it on motorway again. No regeneration. I go to ebay, brought a BMW OBD cable and software (DIS GS1). I get into the error msg, and notice all the 4 glow plugs are having fault. It is because the thermostats do not let the engine get to the right temp, so the glow plugs have to working all the time and they are done. Also the back pressure of DPF is too high.
I bought 4 glow plugs and get the garage I have used for 5 years changed for me. I also brought 2 cans carb cleaners. To change the glow pug, the EGR valve has to be removed as well. You can clean them at the same time when the glow plugs are changed. After I change the glow plugs, the only error is the back pressure. After I done the research. I know there are several solution.
1. remove the dpf and clean it. 99% change you need buy new bolts and gasket from the main dealer.
2. use a special DPF cleaner from the thermal sensor socket. You can find it here in Eurocarparts. Normfest DPF Cleaner 400ml
3. Cut a small hole or small crack on the air pressure sensor intake pipe, this will give the back pressure leakage but not make it to 0, which will cheat the ECU think the back pressure is fine. And this will trig the regenerate.
4. Use the GS1 software to clean the error in DDE all the time while driving on motor way. Basically every 5 sec to clean once. This need 2 people.
I am sure all these 4 solutions will fix this problem. My plan is try them from No.4 to No.1.
After 25 mins driving on motor with keep cleaning the error memory, the DPF regenerated itself, which means I do not need try the other 3 ways.
After that, I check the error msg. No more glow plugs or back pressure error. And the back pressure is 8 mbar while idle. But the Particle filter service warning light still on. I tried all different ways to reset it. None of them works. I read some articles said the pre-LCI E60/E61's DPF are designed to be used for more or less 120,000 miles. So I contacted the local dealer for the price of change it. 1200 pounds including VAT is the price I got.
Well, I check the price on ebay. I decided not change it. I may buy a after market one sometime later. What I have done was make a change new DPF service on the GS1 softare. After this "service" done. The warning light is gone and the DPF mileage is reset back to 120,000 miles. You can also make a regenerate request at the same time in GS1. So next time on motor way, the DPF will regenerate again.
I calculate the money I have spend 50 pounds on 2 thermostats, 48 pounds on 4 glow plugs,25 pounds for the BMW cables, 5 pounds on new coolant, 5 pounds on carb cleaner and 140 pounds to the garage. Plus the fuel I used on motor way, totally about 300 pounds to fix all these. After change the thermostats, new glow plugs and clean the EGR valve. The car feel much "lighter" and full of power now. I will make a DPF regenerate request every 5000 miles, I bet this will prevent this error from now on.
I am having simillar problem: after 1 hour driving engine is only 72-73 deg C warm. Only when I am long in a trafic jam, it can get upto 97-98 deg C. Could you please tell me what is the normal operating temperature?
I know that the original termostat is openning at 88 deg C...
[QUOTE=Anzafin;1120691]Hello again folks!
Hi This thread is about some DIY service you can do on your diesel particulate filter (DPF) on diesel E60's.
Yes, the DPF should be maintenance free and you should buy a new one when it's fully clogged and the self cleaning sequence can not be executed anymore to clean the filter. The new one costs about 1500?.
So... maybe you would like to try something else first!
This is my story and you should not go for the same route it if you have any doubts!
Basics about the DPF taken from a BMW wiring diagram system:
WDS Wiring Diagram SystemFor heavy vehicles such as the E60, to comply with the EU4 legislation taking effect as of 2005, a coated diesel particulate filter is necessary.
This diesel particulate filter separates the soot particles in the exhaust gas with high efficiency (> 95 %). The diesel particulate filter has no influence on the nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions; these are reduced by measures inside the engine.
The particulate filter system used at BMW requires no maintenance and is designed to last the service life of the vehicle. A fuel additive for filter regeneration is not necessary for BMW vehicles.
The diesel particulate filter is fitted close to the engine and is located behind the oxidation catalytic converter in the underbody of the vehicle.
The filter element consists of a ceramic monolith made of silicon carbide that is resistant to high temperatures. The filter element is 50 % porous and has been given a platinum-based, catalytic coating. This coating ensures that the soot ignition temperature is reduced, thus ensuring good regeneration characteristics of the particulate filter.
Why I had to deal with this world saving tin can then???
I'll tell you!
My iDrive displays 100.000km of lifetime left for the DPF, but I ran into problems two weeks ago. I was accelerating at the highway and suddenly all the power dropped and I hardly could get the RPM's over 2000. At first I thought it was the turbo, and kind of it was...
The car limped for two weeks like it had no turbo until my solution.
I got the fault codes read and they were the following (by INPA software):
E R R O R M E M O R Y
---
Date: 21.02.2010 20:07:44 ECU: D50M57E0 JobStatus: OKAY Variant: D50M57E0
480A 480A particle filter system Error counter: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Mileage 114496 km
Engine speed 1268.79 1/min
coolant temperature 77.23 °C
ash mass in particle filter 61.94 g
Injection quantity 4.73 mg/Hub
Air mass per cylinder 548.24 mg/Hub
soot mass in particle filter 60.94 g
exhaust volume flow in particle filter 117.03 m^3/h
Difference pressure over particle filter 187.08 mbar
Abgasgegendruck vor Particle filter 1161.84 mbar
Environment pressure 984.61 mbar
Partikelfilter stark beladen (Abgasgegendruck ueber CRT-Schwelle)
Test conditions not yet fulfilled
Error present now, but not yet stored (debouncing phase)
Error would not cause a warning lamp to light up
Fehler in Entprellphase Fehler in Entprellphase Fehler in Entprellphase
Error code: 48 0A 51 02 00 00 01 28 37 E8 2E 7F 3E 0C 57 3D 0E 13 76 64
---
481A 481A particle filter system
Error counter: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Mileage 114496 km
Engine speed 1406.70 1/min
coolant temperature 82.25 °C
ash mass in particle filter 61.94 g
Injection quantity 33.08 mg/Hub
Air mass per cylinder 693.18 mg/Hub
soot mass in particle filter 60.94 g
exhaust volume flow in particle filter 217.34 m^3/h
Difference pressure over particle filter 305.23 mbar
Abgasgegendruck vor Particle filter 1289.84 mbar
Environment pressure 984.61 mbar
Partikelfilter stark beladen (Abgasgegendruck ueber Maximum)
Test conditions not yet fulfilled
Error present now, but not yet stored (debouncing phase)
Error would not cause a warning lamp to light up
Fehler in Entprellphase Fehler in Entprellphase Fehler in Entprellphase
Error code: 48 1A 51 02 00 00 01 28 37 E8 33 84 3E 54 6E 3D 1A 1F 83 64
---
4530 4530 (1297) air charge control, Standard deviation
Error counter: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Mileage 114496 km
Engine speed 1682.53 1/min c
coolant temperature 82.25 °C
Rail pressure Actual 464.75
bar Injection quantity 22.45 mg/Hub
Air mass per cylinder 781.40 mg/Hub
Charge pressure
Actualwert 1476.92 mbar
Linearised APP1 96.85 %
duty cycle exhaust refeeding actuator 4.73 %
duty cycle manifold pressure actuator 94.53 %
Environment pressure 984.61 mbar
Ladedruck zu niedrig/positive Regelabweichung
Test conditions not yet fulfilled
Error present now, but not yet stored (debouncing phase)
Error would not cause a warning lamp to light up
Fehler in Entprellphase Fehler in Entprellphase
Fehler in Entprellphase
Error code: 45 30 51 02 00 00 01 28 37 E8 3D 84 3B 39 7C 96 7B 06 78 64
---
So the first two are about clogged DPF and the third is about limiting the turbo because of the high backpressure in the exhaust. I tried what happens if I just clear the error memory, and only I got a fully working car for 6-8km until the same fault came back.
A hard thinking started about WHY did this happen? Why is my DPF so clogged? I came into a conclusion that it must be because of this cold season we have had almost 100 days and the fact that I have been driving only short trips in the town and therefore the self cleaning sequence hadn't started for a couple of months!!! The self cleaning process starts only if the coolant temperature is over 75°C AND the exhaust gas has reached the 240°C temperature. So, my engine has never reached both of these requirements during last months. You may remember our -35°C days .
Another reason could have been a faulty vacuum tubing in the engine compartment, especially the tube for the exhaust bakpressure sensor, but they all were ok.
Then I started to search info especially from the Finnish BTCF forum, and found out that some people have removed their DPF and WASHED them!
After some more investigating I decided to do the same and see what happens.
Now, this is what I did, and if someone wants to do the same just go for it but don't blame me if it doesn't work out. I'll write the phases as a list. Sorry not so many pics.
1) Removing the DPF (I have the M57N engine so my DPF is a separate can under the car and easily accessible).- Open the eight bolts and nuts holding the DPF on its both heads
- I had some difficulties as the bolts were badly rusted and they had collected lots of dirt that had burned on them
- There are aluminium seals on both heads and I had to scrape them off with a blade
2) Washing the DPF- At first I tried to flow clean water through the DPF, but it stopped right away and didn't "suck" into the cells
- Then I put some hand dishwashing fluid on the cells and then forced it in with a pressure washer --> lots of black soot started to came through slowly
- I repeated that step few times
- Then I trickled about 2-3 liters of a heavy detergent (98% industrial petrol) into the cells and let the thing sit for 15 mins
- Next I started to rinse the DPF with the pressure washer and LOTS and LOTS of soot came out
- Repeated the detergent thing and then rinsed the can so long with the pressure washer that nothing but clean water came out anymore
- It was late, and I left the DPF sit upright on a bucket overnight and I trickled 1 liter of turpentine to run through the cells
- Next day I noticed that maybe 0,7l had came through and missing 0,3l was still inside
- The cells are very tight and it wasn't a wonder there was still liquids inside
- All the turpentine that had came through was 100% clear
Here's a pic of the cells in the DPF, taken at the water rinsing phase. You can see the bubbles coming out of the cells and water dragging into them:
A short video on the same phase can be seen here: Rinsing the DPF
3) Drying the DPF- I forced the "missing" 0,3l of turpentine out with my patented drying system
- I had to blow air through the DPF approximately one hour to get all the liquids out
Patented drying system (Leaf blower attached to "in" head of the DPF):
4) Installing the DPF- The install was easy, just placed the seals between the attaching flanges and bolted the new bolts tight
- The new bolts can be ordered from the dealer, but I bought 8 shorter bolts for it from somewhere else
- The seals' part number is 18307789904 (Please note this is the case for the separate DPF with a M57N engine)
Hi
Brilliant job 👍 Very well done.
I’ve just cleaned my 520 2007 dpf filter exactly the same way you’ve done as it has 155k on the clock and recently it was showing dpf faults (could be too high mileage on the original dpf).
Refitted it yesterday and now the back pressure on idle it’s around 0-3mbar. I think it worked but time will tell. Ash coming out Warm pressure water wash Soaking it with chemical Bolts were gone, had to cut them on both sides-16 cuts Beast on jacks 😅 had remove all of exhaust pipe from the catalytic clamp as not able to.Please feel free to comment or ask questions!
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