super helpful and useful. cheers!

 

I just bought a 5 qrt Castrol Edge Titanium synthetic oil at Walmart for $27. Pepboys wants $44 for the same 5 qrts. I will be attempting to change the oil following your instructions on my 2008 528i in a few weeks. Thanks for the great post.

I have attached a file on how to reset the oil change indicator after the oil change. Note: this is something I found online and haven't try it myself. use it at your own risk.

 

Great Write Up!!!

 

Great DIY.. planning to do so soon hopefully before the winter hits

 

hi

Is this the same place on a 535 that we should put the jack stand on?

There is a rubber block (maybe 1in x 3in between the oil cover and the front nose under the car that is not covered by the plastic shield. I ended up using the OEM jack and that rubber block for the jack stand.

It made manuvering under the car a bit difficult with the jack and pan there. I think I want to try a different spot for the jack stands next time.

Thanks
-p

 

The jack stands go on each side of the car right behind the front wheel. You will see the jack pads.

 

Please guys, do not rely on factory jacks for maintenance work. Use a floor jack and a jackstand before going under the car (along with other safety measures - level surface, wheel chocks, etc). For an oil change, get a set of ramps to drive up on.

 

My oil change went smoooooth. Thanks for the help

 

I own a 2005 545i.

My oil change procedure:

I drive upon my homemade wooden ramps.



Floor level is 26" long.

2nd level is 20" long.

Stop is 1/5" sq.

So, using a 2 x 12" x 96" long board from Home Depot at a cost of about $14.00 I have two excelllent ramps.

Place 4 rubber wheel chocks behind the two rear wheels.



Then I remove the oil filler cap from the engine.

Next, I place my 1989, Allied Hydrualics, floor jack under the center jacking point of the car (about 23" back from the very bottom edge of the bumper) adn jack the car to the height that I need.



I then place 7 ton jack (AC Delco) stands under the jacking points below the passenger and drivers doors.



I then lower the car very slowly onto these two jack stands so that they take 100% of the load. (If you like, you can leave the hydraulic jack in place as added security but since I'm using 7 ton jack stands, I remove it.)

The oil filer is behind a flap held in place with 3 screws. Remove two of them and swing the flap out of the way leaving the 3rd screw in place.

Place an oil drain pan that can hold the 8.5 quarts of oil under the plug/filter when draining.

I then use an 8mm and a 6mm to remove the engine oil drain plug (8mm) and then the oil filter housing plug (6mm). Then I use a 23mm socket to remove the oil filter housing and replace with a Hengst Oil Filter.

Reinstall (I recommend you replace the OEM plugs with magnetic ones from: http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/bmwautomobiles.php) and re-screw the flap into place. (Use a torque wrench to specificaions).

Use your jack to slightly raise the car and remove the jack stands.

Now add the 8.5 quarts of 0W-40 Mobil 1 (European Formula) from Walmart and recap the engine.

Remove the the rubber wheel chocks.

Start the egine and check for obvious leaks.

You're done.

 

Great summary - I did the same (always using ramps by the way) and changed my plugs at the same time. Only took about 90 minutes all done. Plugs 5 & particularly 6 were harder to access. Now to reset the computer. Did you try this procedure yet? I did and always get the same German messaging and no service items. Tried it slower & faster. No change. Any help greatly appreciated.
Dave