Battery Replacement
02-22-2009, 12:02 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by RatherBeInCabo' post='788127' date='Feb 8 2009, 04:42 PM
It is absolute BS!!! The dealer programming is resetting the clock and Active Steering which takes all of 2 or 3 minutes. All a battery does is supply voltage and current. There is no electronics connection to the battery. I changed mine several weeks ago as noted in the original post and I have had no problems.
thank you
02-22-2009, 01:17 AM
#52
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My Ride: 520D M Sport Manual, Media Package, Dakota Grey leather, USB, Folding mirrors, Carbon Black.
To EU E60 owners
I am wondering if EU Regulation on block exemption (EU competition law) could mean you don't have to go to a Beemer dealer to register the battery to the car. Maybe any repairer who specialize in BMW may be able to do this cheaper (just a thought), assuming they have the BMW equipment to do it.
I am wondering if EU Regulation on block exemption (EU competition law) could mean you don't have to go to a Beemer dealer to register the battery to the car. Maybe any repairer who specialize in BMW may be able to do this cheaper (just a thought), assuming they have the BMW equipment to do it.
02-23-2009, 10:25 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by xxrap985xx' post='770269' date='Jan 18 2009, 01:45 AM
my battery is going bad and iwas wondering could i replace it with a optima red top battery?
02-24-2009, 06:00 AM
#55
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Just started working on my now out of warranty 2004 545i. Changed the battery with a stealer battery. The one they sold me has slighty less CCA but is about the same size. It was a simple swap, and the only code that came was the active steering. I did the left/right thing 3 times...the first time had no effect, the second time casued the number of turns to lock to reduce tot he correct active steering amount (about 1.75 turns to lock) and the last time the warning light went off. Drove the car to work today, no problems. The screen does not go off for a second when the car starts anymore, the lights in the car and trunk are brighter, and of course, the car starts much easier. Certainly would not pay the stealer for a battery swap. Good luck.
02-24-2009, 08:56 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by RatherBeInCabo' post='788127' date='Feb 8 2009, 08:42 PM
It is absolute BS!!! The dealer programming is resetting the clock and Active Steering which takes all of 2 or 3 minutes. All a battery does is supply voltage and current. There is no electronics connection to the battery. I changed mine several weeks ago as noted in the original post and I have had no problems.
The previous is Bullshit (not the first time in this foorum...).
First: the shematic of IBS:
Then the description:
The IBS is a mechatronic component for monitoring the battery condition. The IBS is secured and connected to the negative terminal of the battery. The power supply for the IBS is fed across a separate cable. For data transmission, the IBS is connected to the DME (Digital Engine Electronics) or DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics) via the BSD (bit-serial data interface).
And the configuration You will find from TIS:
There are also additional documets somewhere, I couldn't find about IBS and its usage.
So: putting roughly 200 - 300 euros for Original Teile battery for a car value of 20 to 50 k is very low, in my opinion. Plus there will be 100% satifaction its also works for years.
03-11-2009, 07:08 AM
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Just got "Increased Battery Discharge" error code a week ago. When it started it was interrmittent. Took it to the dealership and their diagnosis is I either did not turn the car off properly (shut down all the accessories) or have somehow left the fob in the car -- I have comfort access. I informed them that neither is the case (since having owned the car for a long time, I did not just developed a case of brain fart), at which point, the dealership request to keep the car overnight to confirm my claim. The next day, I received a call from the dealership that I have come pick up my car, and eventhough they can not show that it was my fault, their "computer diagnosis" is giving them the error as "operating error" and thus they can not submit a warantee claim. The dealership generously offer to charge my battery, so I can take it to another dealership, or pay $425 to have them replace the battery. I am not even sure the battery is the cuprit, because I told the dealership that even after I properly shut off the car (push and hold start/stop button until all off, AND lock with fob) I can still hear the cd/dvd/cd changer doing things and making noise. I have a call into BMW USA right now, but since the dealership forced me to take the car back I am in a constant state of fear of being stranded somewhere due to dead battery. This sucks, on a fr**kin 2007 530i with comfort access. Anyone with any reccomendations or update to this issue?
If you have to return the car for the same issue for 5 times, isn't there a lemon law to deal with this?
If you have to return the car for the same issue for 5 times, isn't there a lemon law to deal with this?
03-11-2009, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by so.cal1' post='813576' date='Mar 11 2009, 11:08 AM
Just got "Increased Battery Discharge" error code a week ago. Anyone with any reccomendations or update to this issue?
ps. carry jumper cables...
03-11-2009, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RatherBeInCabo' post='763009' date='Jan 8 2009, 04:57 PM
A trunk full of hydrogen could cause an unpleasant experience 
Marc
Marc
03-11-2009, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RatherBeInCabo' post='762866' date='Jan 8 2009, 02:11 PM
Well I had the experience of my battery dying on me while at the car wash this past weekend. I called the sealer and they wanted $500 plus to exchange the battery. I started looking online for information on how to do this and I found a ton of opinions...from doom and gloom to piece of cake. After reading through many posts on multiple sites and what was described in the manual, I decide I could do it myself. I purchased a Werker 95R from Batteries Plus and was on my way.
Many people warned that the battery needed to be registered with the car or I would lose all Idrive control if I do it myself. I can tell you now that is all BS and you can do it yourself in about 30 minutes or less. I took a little longer because I took pictures at each step along the way.
Here is the link to the pictures: http://gallery.me.com/ratherbeincabo#100032
If anyone has questions, I will be glad to answer them. You can email me at my username here at gmail.com
I am sure my question is covered somewhere on this forum, but here goes:
Does anyone use a trickle charger that goes thru the cigarette lighter while changing the battery? If you could keep the current going into the car as you change the battery, you would not lose any settings. And I realize there are several opinions on losing settings. Is one likely to burn up something while using the trickle charger and changing battery?
Marc
Many people warned that the battery needed to be registered with the car or I would lose all Idrive control if I do it myself. I can tell you now that is all BS and you can do it yourself in about 30 minutes or less. I took a little longer because I took pictures at each step along the way.
Here is the link to the pictures: http://gallery.me.com/ratherbeincabo#100032
If anyone has questions, I will be glad to answer them. You can email me at my username here at gmail.com
I am sure my question is covered somewhere on this forum, but here goes:
Does anyone use a trickle charger that goes thru the cigarette lighter while changing the battery? If you could keep the current going into the car as you change the battery, you would not lose any settings. And I realize there are several opinions on losing settings. Is one likely to burn up something while using the trickle charger and changing battery?
Marc