CaptainMorgan535i

Does anyone have a good part number for the subframe bolts. I think FCP euro only has the subframe reinforcement plate bolts listed as part #31106770256.

iShapeshifter

I had a similar issue with FCP order. the four long ones are 31106760222, the two short ones are 31106770256. when I ordered from FCP the four long ones were accurate, but the two short ones were totally different. I ended up going to local stealership for the two short ones. I took the part numbers off their order form. I re-used the bolts for the reinforcement plate. Good luck!

rkvarner43

I bought the same ones (31106760222 and 31106770256) from FCP Euro and they worked for me, I don't remember any difference with the original ones.

CaptainMorgan535i

. Thank you for looking the part numbers up!

Thank you so much for making the write up! Its awesome being able to find 535i specific stuff versus reading the 335i forums and hoping the same instructions apply across chassis.

I'm taking my car and the parts to a mechanic who works out of his house to see if hes willing to do the motor mounts and oil pan gasket. He quoted me $450 for the motor mounts at $50 an hour for 9 hours. At around $700 parts and labor, it seems like it would be smart to do the oil pan at the same time to save some labor. My dealership quote is $1860.xx for oil pan gasket and motor mounts, so I might have to try and do it myself if the mechanic is not up for it. I've done control arms and struts on my e60, but they didn't require a lot of other stuff to be removed to get to them. I'd be really afraid I'd drop the subframe without much trouble, but not be able to guide it back in properly. I don't have active steering so maybe with less power steering lines it would make the job less risky?

iShapeshifter

Yeah, they must have sent me the wrong ones, the order has the right number, but the bolts I received were different length, different thread and also different material (they looked like steel bolts)

iShapeshifter

I dunno man, its up to you. I had the time and the desire to do it myself. After getting quotes of a couple thousand to do all I did, it really motivated me to do it myself. I am glad I did it overall but it was a lot of work. I understand why they ask for so much money! I saw Ken above had some issues with the motor mounts, but in my case it was super easy and simple once the subframe was dropped a few inches. To line it back up to put it back together, I did have to be flexible and with one hand pumping the jack slowly to raise the subframe while using an extension bar passed thru the subframe and into the car frame to guide the subframe back up with the other hand. I did it slowly and stopped a couple of times to make sure all the parts were lining up. ( also to make sure no lines were crimped or in the way. I did have to push some of the hydraulic lines back in to place, but it all went pretty smoothly) As I was raising the subframe, I also had to bolt up the bracket for the auto trans lines. The steering spindle and the motor mounts all have to line up, but it was relatively simple. It was certainly not the hardest part of the job. Also I would add that taking off the oil pan, there are three E11 bolts that need to be take out as well. Two of them hold the bracket that holds the o2 sensor connections. The third one is further above, following the curve of the bell housing.

CaptainMorgan535i

Thank you for the heads up on the E11 bolts. I've definitely seen multiple people say they wouldn't want to do the job for someone else for under $1k. Do you have active steering with all of the extra lines tied to the subframe? I'm wondering if you still have to drain the power steering fluid if you don't have active steering.

iShapeshifter

I do have the active steering and the hydraulic lines that it entails are in the way to access the water pump and thermostat. I would say that if you have any hydraulic lines that need to be disconnected, you will likely have to drain the fluid. I used one of those tall, floor extractors that use a pump to create a vacuum and suck it all out in a few seconds. I just felt that I can do the work at a much lower price than what is being charged. I do work on my other cars (Mercedes E class and Honda Pilot) I also work on my motorcycle (Honda CBR 1000) as well as my bicycles. So for me it was a way to achieve ninja level on my mechanics. Also chicks dig guys that can work on their cars. So between saving money, having some experience and ability and tools, and the fact that chicks dig it...well, the decision was simple. It will really increase your level of confidence once it gets done and runs smooth as silk. And the satisfaction you get from doing a job that is daunting at times carries into your regular day. The only tools I bought was the engine lift from Harbor Freight and some low profile torx bits for the belt, tensioner and pulleys. I read a few other threads and other people encouraged others to do it. I took the plunge and it came out great, no warning lights, no parts or screws leftover..lol! But what do I know, I am probably the least qualified to tell you what to do or how to do it. I learned it all from these forums!

CaptainMorgan535i

I appreciate the feedback. I definitely agree. I'm glad I'm addressing this now. My oil pan went from leaking a little bit, to a lot more.

iShapeshifter

so...over a year later, the world has changed with the virus. But the car is still going strong! Hasn't been driven much this year, but have not had any issues related to this repair. wonder how @captainmorgan535i did with the oil leak...too much time on my hands the day before new years eve.