Internal Remote Boot Release
01-27-2007, 10:20 AM
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My Ride: Estoril Blue 440i GC
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dlevi67,
I got the wiring diagrams from eBay - there are a number of sellers there. I did my usual trick and chose the cheapest!! One DVD with all models on it. It's biased towards LHD, but the diagrams and pictures are pretty good. It runs in an Internet Explorer Browser interface and is OK to use. I am a Mozilla fan, so I have to launch IE specifically for it, but it's no real hassle.
You won't need a seperate earth for the lighting as the earth to the switch is common to the lighting.
I got the wiring diagrams from eBay - there are a number of sellers there. I did my usual trick and chose the cheapest!! One DVD with all models on it. It's biased towards LHD, but the diagrams and pictures are pretty good. It runs in an Internet Explorer Browser interface and is OK to use. I am a Mozilla fan, so I have to launch IE specifically for it, but it's no real hassle.
You won't need a seperate earth for the lighting as the earth to the switch is common to the lighting.
01-28-2007, 02:53 PM
#12
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My Ride: MY RIDE is DA real .-) HAMANN 5 aka BLACK MAMBA born on 16/06/2005/delivered on 05/08/2005 as following:
530dA (steptronic), Black II (JET), leather Dakota auburn black, mapple trim, head-up display, dynamic drive, active steering, adaptive xenon headlights (auto levelling) with headlight washers, alarm, comfort seats with massage function, advanced A/C, big compartment armrest, aux-in, MP3, Logic 7, Radio PRO, CD in-dash+cd changer, power rear sunshades, rear airbags, park distance control, auto dimming folding mirrors, smoking package, shiny shadow line (individual), fold down rear seats, ski bag, sport suspension, run flats on �116-style� rims (Good Year NCT5+), cup holders, debadged, fire extinguishers, additional permanent power outlet, BMW coat hanger, trunk release button (installed by Hobi), GPS tracking device and a big thx 2 Iceman.
Mods done:
� Authentic HAMANN FRONT APRON Including ellipsoid fog lights Item-No.: 10 060 110
� Authentic HAMANN REAR SPOILER Item-No.: 10 060 130,
� Authentic HAMANN HAMANN ALUMINIUM PEDALS For cars with manual gearbox Item-No.: 80 099 100 81,00 For cars with automatic transmission Item-No.: 80 099 120
� Authentic HAMANN FOOT REST In aluminium For left-hand drive vehicles Item No. : 80 099 122
� Authentic HAMANN HAND-BRAKE LEVER In aluminium For left- and right-hand drive cars Item No. : 80 099 216
� Authentic HAMANN Idrive of alu (sorry this is the only one in the World) but you can have it in carbon fiber ,
� Authentic HAMANN EXCLUSIVE FLOORMAT SET In black with HAMANN logo in silver For left-hand drive cars Item-No. : 80 060 120 For right-hand drive cars Item-No. : 80 060
� Authentic HAMANN COVER FOR OIL FILLER CAP In aluminium Item-No.: 80 099 117
� Authentic HAMANN SPORT REAR MUFFLER 4 TAILPIPES Sport rear muffler with four round stainless-steel tailpipes ( � 76mm ) Item-No.: 50 060 111
� Authentic HAMANN new add-on for M pack rear with diffusor for quad pipes -AVAILABLE NOW (http://forums.e60.net/index.php?act=ST&f=22&t=30630&st=0#entry332409)
� ///M steering wheel w Pegasus logo (this will be also changed to three spoke sports)
� ///M pack rear
� HAMANN ECU upgrade 265 HP 608 Nm.
most improtant:
�real and working like a charm forumsbuy real LED tails and PIAA 4700k fogs!!! for HAMANN full front apron you need H3
� CustomAngels, Angel Eyes Brighter than stocks 10X, WHITE & (REd for shows).
� Authentic HAMANN LIGHT-ALLOY WHEELS DESIGN EDITION RACE 20"
Ultra-light forged 3-pieced light-alloy wheel, Cross-spoke-design,Spider in black, titanium, screwing,polished flange
DIMENSIONS : 9.0 J x 20 FA Item No.: 91 207 315
10.5 J x 20 only RA Item No.: 91 207 625
Recommended 20" Complete Wheel Set DESIGN EDITION RACE I went with most aggressive Combination A.10 FA 9.0 J x 20 / RA 10.5 J x 20 with tires: FA 245/30 ZR 20 / RA 285/25 ZR 20
� Authentic HAMANN LOWERING KIT 4 progressive sport springs Lowering by approx. 40 mm FA, 20 mm RA Item-No.: 20 060 125
� Authentic HAMANN TIRE - PRESSURE CHECK SENSOR SYSTEM
� Authentic HAMANN SIDE SILLS Item-No.: 10 060 120
� Authentic HAMANN REAL CF ROOF SPOLIER Item-No.: 10 060 235
� Authentic HAMANN AIRBAG SPORT STEERING WHEEL 3-SPOKE Three-spoke design w their SMG paddles (For assembly O.E. airbag in exchange)
� Authentic HAMANN sports mirrors (all functions)
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and of course !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
E60.net Clings
Still to do list;-):
� Our Hobi's camera system from : ww.switchchange.com).
� Individual leather interior (auburn+auburn alcantara)... and drive with sheer drivin' pleasure ... until 2009/2010 F10 comes or E60 possibly a 540d V8 diesel early in 2009 badly juiced!
Thx this is what our Hobi did me last year I love it spec when it rains LOL no need to get out if they can close the trunk LOL
02-04-2007, 05:56 AM
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My Ride: E61 535d Apr 05. UK spec + Media Pack, Luxury Pack & Visibility Pack
Update on illumination of button:
The wire from Pin 43 of the lighting module is soldered/crimped where it splits, and that connection is really difficult to access without stripping half the car, so there is no easy way to have a really neat connection. There seems to be no spare wire available for the lid switch (or perhaps it's strapped very tightly among the other 75000 wires). I have used Scotchlocks for both this and the ground, and it's relatively neat, but visible if you know what you are looking for. On the other hand, it works.
One last point on BMW thouroghness of engineering. On the E61, if you unlock the boot using the switch when the driver's door is open, and then close the driver's door, the boot will lock up again! Useful to avoid driving away with the boot open, or inadvertently leaving it open when the car is parked.
The wire from Pin 43 of the lighting module is soldered/crimped where it splits, and that connection is really difficult to access without stripping half the car, so there is no easy way to have a really neat connection. There seems to be no spare wire available for the lid switch (or perhaps it's strapped very tightly among the other 75000 wires). I have used Scotchlocks for both this and the ground, and it's relatively neat, but visible if you know what you are looking for. On the other hand, it works.
One last point on BMW thouroghness of engineering. On the E61, if you unlock the boot using the switch when the driver's door is open, and then close the driver's door, the boot will lock up again! Useful to avoid driving away with the boot open, or inadvertently leaving it open when the car is parked.
02-04-2007, 06:16 AM
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My Ride: bmw 530d,2004,500nm,navi profesional.bi-xenon ,adaptive curve light,active sterring,etc...
Originally Posted by AlwynMike' post='381247' date='Jan 21 2007, 10:30 AM
This post is generally aimed at pre-2005 RHD car owners as I understand that most LHD cars and all E61's have the Remote Boot Release already fitted as standard, as it is on later cars. Hence there will be no apologies for the use of the word "Boot" rather than "Trunk" as our American cousins enjoy the switch as standard.
I have read elsewhere on the forum that there are some cars with the wiring for the switch already fitted. I am one of the unlucky ones that have nothing! Also elsewhere on the forum is a Contributor who may be able to supply a kit for this job, but I understand that he is a busy man, and may be difficult to get hold of.
The job took me about 45 minutes to complete, but it is really only a job for the competent, confident or foolhardy
.
The job is not a complete one as I have not bothered with the illumination for the switch - that's a job for another day.
Usual disclaimers apply, of course, please carry out his procedure at your own risk.
Firstly, you need some parts. Go to your friendly $tealer and buy the proper Boot Release switch that fits in the blank on the footwell trim below the OBD door. (cost less than a tenner). You will also need a couple of pieces of thin wire and connectors. You can buy connectors from Maplins or similar, as they are the same pitch as ones used in Computer motherboards. In the spirit of recycling, I used a connector from an old PC motherboard I had in my shed. I'm sure if you went to your local PC shop, they would give you a connector and wire for next to nothing. The switch has 3 connections, so a 3-way socket is needed, although if you are doing without the illumination, then a 2-way will do.
Get your tools together and remove the footwell trim, both the side panel and under the steering column. One screw on the side panel, plus the screw holding the bonnet release lever, and five screws for the rest, not forgetting the one under the carpet strip on the centre console (the strip just pushes out from the rear). When removing the side panel, the plastic threshold strip needs to be levered up too, so you can get it out completely.
Disconnect the battery - don't worry about this, you only lose the date, time and trip mileage.
Put the plastics somewhere safe, get on your back in the footwell and look upwards directly forward of the small cubby. You will see 2 electrickery boxes, one black and one grey. Its the grey one you want. Push the plug clip up and withdraw the plug.
On the edge of the plug, near the thick red wire, there are two small clips, spread these and the plug cover will slide off.
In the mass of wires so revealed, you will see at one end a grey/yellow wire, an empty slot and then a purple wire. Looking at the plug base, they are numbered 40, 39 and 38 respectively.
Get your piece of wire, along with its attached terminal and insert it into the empty slot. Slide the cover back on. Refit the plug.
Attachment 27872
This is a picture of the plug without the cover. The Orange wire is the one I have fitted.
The mounting screw for the box makes a convenient earth for the other wire that goes to the switch, as below:
Attachment 27873
In this pic, you can see the forward part of the right hand cubby, to give you a better idea of the location.
Retrieve the plastics and fit the switch in the side panel. Plug in the PC type cable - the centre terminal is earth, the terminal next to the blank is the switched one. The remaining terminal, next to the locating peg when using the BMW plug, is for illumination.
Sorry for the poor picture on this one.
Attachment 27874
Now refit all the plastics and the battery connection, and Voila, one Remote Release fitted. They only come in black though!
Attachment 27875
Now you will be able to sit in the comfort of your car and open the boot without switching off the engine! Ideal for when picking up Wife and shopping or Kids and schoolbags.
If anyone has any questions/queries, I'll be glad to assist. Indeed if there is anyone wanting a little assistance or just moral support :'( in doing the job, let me know.
I have read elsewhere on the forum that there are some cars with the wiring for the switch already fitted. I am one of the unlucky ones that have nothing! Also elsewhere on the forum is a Contributor who may be able to supply a kit for this job, but I understand that he is a busy man, and may be difficult to get hold of.
The job took me about 45 minutes to complete, but it is really only a job for the competent, confident or foolhardy
.The job is not a complete one as I have not bothered with the illumination for the switch - that's a job for another day.
Usual disclaimers apply, of course, please carry out his procedure at your own risk.
Firstly, you need some parts. Go to your friendly $tealer and buy the proper Boot Release switch that fits in the blank on the footwell trim below the OBD door. (cost less than a tenner). You will also need a couple of pieces of thin wire and connectors. You can buy connectors from Maplins or similar, as they are the same pitch as ones used in Computer motherboards. In the spirit of recycling, I used a connector from an old PC motherboard I had in my shed. I'm sure if you went to your local PC shop, they would give you a connector and wire for next to nothing. The switch has 3 connections, so a 3-way socket is needed, although if you are doing without the illumination, then a 2-way will do.
Get your tools together and remove the footwell trim, both the side panel and under the steering column. One screw on the side panel, plus the screw holding the bonnet release lever, and five screws for the rest, not forgetting the one under the carpet strip on the centre console (the strip just pushes out from the rear). When removing the side panel, the plastic threshold strip needs to be levered up too, so you can get it out completely.
Disconnect the battery - don't worry about this, you only lose the date, time and trip mileage.
Put the plastics somewhere safe, get on your back in the footwell and look upwards directly forward of the small cubby. You will see 2 electrickery boxes, one black and one grey. Its the grey one you want. Push the plug clip up and withdraw the plug.
On the edge of the plug, near the thick red wire, there are two small clips, spread these and the plug cover will slide off.
In the mass of wires so revealed, you will see at one end a grey/yellow wire, an empty slot and then a purple wire. Looking at the plug base, they are numbered 40, 39 and 38 respectively.
Get your piece of wire, along with its attached terminal and insert it into the empty slot. Slide the cover back on. Refit the plug.
Attachment 27872
This is a picture of the plug without the cover. The Orange wire is the one I have fitted.
The mounting screw for the box makes a convenient earth for the other wire that goes to the switch, as below:
Attachment 27873
In this pic, you can see the forward part of the right hand cubby, to give you a better idea of the location.
Retrieve the plastics and fit the switch in the side panel. Plug in the PC type cable - the centre terminal is earth, the terminal next to the blank is the switched one. The remaining terminal, next to the locating peg when using the BMW plug, is for illumination.
Sorry for the poor picture on this one.
Attachment 27874
Now refit all the plastics and the battery connection, and Voila, one Remote Release fitted. They only come in black though!
Attachment 27875
Now you will be able to sit in the comfort of your car and open the boot without switching off the engine! Ideal for when picking up Wife and shopping or Kids and schoolbags.
If anyone has any questions/queries, I'll be glad to assist. Indeed if there is anyone wanting a little assistance or just moral support :'( in doing the job, let me know.
can u make a picture to see where exactly is conected that huge blak connector ?
thank
02-04-2007, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vl20sas' post='387379' date='Feb 4 2007, 03:16 PM
can u make a picture to see where exactly is conected that huge blak connector ?
thank
thank
02-04-2007, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AlwynMike' post='381247' date='Jan 22 2007, 01:00 AM
On the edge of the plug, near the thick red wire, there are two small clips, spread these and the plug cover will slide off.
In the mass of wires so revealed, you will see at one end a grey/yellow wire, an empty slot and then a purple wire. Looking at the plug base, they are numbered 40, 39 and 38 respectively.
Get your piece of wire, along with its attached terminal and insert it into the empty slot. Slide the cover back on. Refit the plug.
Attachment 27872
This is a picture of the plug without the cover. The Orange wire is the one I have fitted.The mounting screw for the box makes a convenient earth for the other wire that goes to the switch, as below:
In the mass of wires so revealed, you will see at one end a grey/yellow wire, an empty slot and then a purple wire. Looking at the plug base, they are numbered 40, 39 and 38 respectively.
Get your piece of wire, along with its attached terminal and insert it into the empty slot. Slide the cover back on. Refit the plug.
Attachment 27872
This is a picture of the plug without the cover. The Orange wire is the one I have fitted.The mounting screw for the box makes a convenient earth for the other wire that goes to the switch, as below:
Are you saying that the wire you connect to the black plug, when the plug is plugged back into the socket, completes the wiring circuit for the wiring that already exists and runs to the boot? If that is the case, why didn't BMW just add the switch in the first place, it wouldn't have cost them much to do and an interior boot release is almost standard even in the cheap cars.
Cheerz
02-04-2007, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by daMANiack' post='387451' date='Feb 4 2007, 09:37 PM
Hi,
Are you saying that the wire you connect to the black plug, when the plug is plugged back into the socket, completes the wiring circuit for the wiring that already exists and runs to the boot? If that is the case, why didn't BMW just add the switch in the first place, it wouldn't have cost them much to do and an interior boot release is almost standard even in the cheap cars.
Cheerz
Are you saying that the wire you connect to the black plug, when the plug is plugged back into the socket, completes the wiring circuit for the wiring that already exists and runs to the boot? If that is the case, why didn't BMW just add the switch in the first place, it wouldn't have cost them much to do and an interior boot release is almost standard even in the cheap cars.
Cheerz
I have no idea why BMW did not do it, as the cost is absolutely trivial: switch was ?12, components were less than ?1 (for the parts I used), and it took me 60 minutes from top to bottom having to figure out everything (and take the bits apart), so it would be probably no more than 5 minutes extra time if you could add the wires to the wiring loom, and fit the switch as the car is being assembled. On the other hand, it gave them something to add to the '06 MY...
02-04-2007, 01:29 PM
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Hi,
Thanks.
I can see where the lighting wire goes in the switch plug, but where would you need to attach the lighting wire to get the switch to illuminate.
Cheerz
Thanks.
I can see where the lighting wire goes in the switch plug, but where would you need to attach the lighting wire to get the switch to illuminate.
Cheerz
02-04-2007, 03:13 PM
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In my original post, look at the second picture. You will see a black box next to the grey box. This is the lighting module. Pin 43 of the large plug that fits into this black box is the feed used to control switch lighting. The wire is Grey with a Red tracer. (With thanks to dlevi67 for this information!). Use a ScotchLok or similar to "piggy back" the wire to go to the release switch - see dlevi67's earlier post.
From Hobi's posts some time ago, there are obviously cars around with the wires already in the loom, that just need a switch fitted. Perhaps an attempt at BMW cost-cutting?? I don't know - it is a pretty trivial item that is great for convenience, and has been standard on all E61's AFAIK from day one.
From Hobi's posts some time ago, there are obviously cars around with the wires already in the loom, that just need a switch fitted. Perhaps an attempt at BMW cost-cutting?? I don't know - it is a pretty trivial item that is great for convenience, and has been standard on all E61's AFAIK from day one.
02-13-2007, 05:52 PM
#20
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at the bmw connector side,a wire is suppose to be connected in between the grey and purple wire(empty slot),that wire i'm suppose to insert is using wat kinda contacts?sockets?pins?u have a part no for it?thnx in advance