Gilgorm

Further to PlanB's note. You can tell you have TPMS if you have pewter-coloured large valve caps. Definitely get the sensors back if you trade your rims. I was told by BMW that TPMS became standard on LCI cars(2008+).

luigi524td

TPMS on '07 on ...

god_003

yep...

07 and newer cars r required by law to have functional tpms systems (us)

cars prior to that didnt require it so is y most have ftm

some states who require a state inspection wont allow u to pass unless they r fully functional

nomis_nehc

Or no need to take the wheel off and throw it in the pool. I have seen guys at the shop use spray such as Windex and check for bubbling/fizzing.

healthservices

The other issue is bad bead sealing where it only leaks when the car is moving. This happens more often on chrome wheels.

JayArras

Thanks for the replies, guys! I think I get it now. I also heard from Tucker at Tire Rack, who had this to say:

"The TPMS sensors are mounted to the other side of the valve stem. If you're purchasing a tire and wheel package, we can sell you the sensors as well and mount them inside the wheels. The tire has almost nothing to do with the TPMS system (other than hold in the air). So you don't need a special tire or a special wheel, just to have the sensor mounted inside the wheel. You can add them at any time, you'd just have to break the bead of the tire to get to the inside of the wheel."

Thought I'd pass that along for others who might be interested.

vickp

Why go through all this complicated mess just for pressure monitoring, my suggestion would getting the Visual valve indicators (VALVE STEM CAPS)from Bavarian Autosport @ bavauto.com They pop a green indicator when u r below your normal air pressure. Can't beat that FOR $ 19.99 PART # KW44444

kirvedx

I've been looking to retrofit TPMS because I have a requirement to either have the FTM working or to retrofit TPMS - in order to pass inspection here in NY. In NY, you absolutely have to have FTM working if you had it as a factory provided option - even if you're waived from having to have TPMS installed due to having an old enough car (systems from factory have to be functional as part of OBDII spec - all ready monitors have to be active and passing). I, however, cannot get the FTM working without fixing the AWD - which is far more expensive (I'm limited in tools required to do big jobs like dropping exhausts, removing hub nuts, replacing CV-Joints, checking the transfer case actuator...etc). Because of that my front right wheel speed sensor remains unplugged to keep the car locked in RWD until I can afford the shop time.

That said, I've purchased:

• 1 x RDC Control Module w/ pigtail w/o holder - my 530xi has the styrofoam under spare tire with the cutout for putting the RDC control module there ($35)
  • There is an service visible in ISTA+ that shows that there is a service kit for the RDC Module that moves the module from the styrofoam into a new holder that clings to the sidewall above the fuse holder. I've tried my damnest to find this holder (or more specifically the service kit) but cannot seem to find it, unfortunately. This update came about as a side-effect to the RDC Module commonly failing due to water damage under the spare tire. In fact, many of the modules that got put there have a service kit available (or used to) to move them out of there.
• 1 x RDC Antennae w/ pigtail w/o holder - the holder is available from any dealer or ECS Tuning for about $40 ($25)
• 4 x RDC Triggers w/ pigtails and holders ($40)
• 4 x Sets of wheel electronics (the sensors) w/ TPMS service kits preinstalled...includes the 4 transmitters, 4 valve stems, 4 valve caps, all seals, etc. ($80.00)

That pretty much covers the bulk of the TPMS system. The way it works is simple:

• The wheel electronics combine to form a mini-pressure guage implementation with digital readout out of the valve stem that transmits over 125hz from inside the wheels. This is not a very powerful signal - requiring little power - so as to keep the battery lasting as long as possible. The electronics transmit frequently once the wheels start spinning for more than 5 seconds.
• This of course is why the trigger modules exist at each wheel well powered by a pigtail. They detect/read the signal transmitted by the wheel electronics and repeat them over 433hz. This is much more powerful, and the right amount so as to accomplish a couple of feats. Their goal is to reach the primary antennae at the rear of the car;
• The primary antennae reads the triggers reapeted signals, and forwards them over the bus to the control module inside of the trunk.
• The control module (or the antennae who id's the information over the bus - not quite sure yet) can determine by the strength of each trigger signal which wheel pressure and heat sensor data it is receiving.
• The CIC can actively display wheel pressure and temperature information. Older implementations simply showed everything was "ok".
• In either case, when a tire is detected as below pressure - and possibly for the temperature if new enough - the CIC and Cluster will display an alert to the user.
• In advanced cases temperature readings can indicate a wearing tire - and is also used to determin if lower pressures are acceptible in colder climates.
• Keep in mind that pressure ratings are based on 0-60MPH on average - and up-to a MAXIMUM of 100MPH. If you drive over 100MPH you will need to follow the recommended ratings for that speed range (look at the stamp inside of the drivers door frame). You'll want some tires that can handle that speed - W-Rated+

Mind you I've already done a CIC/CID/Combox/Amp retrofit... Here's where that is relavent:

• If you don't have a CIC/CID and don't have a CCC/CCC M-ASK from a year that supported TPMS -> you might either need to get yourself updated firmware and software or do an all-out upgrade. The CCC/CCC M-ASK might only support basic FTM, but if I'm not mistaken TPMS was the default for BMWs in late 90's early 2000's until they felt FTM was better -> and then they ended up having to go with TPMS as standard again in USA after the laws required it (I think it was 2007). It was available as an option all along since the 90's?
• You could always throw the FA needed for TPMS into the VO and default code your media components and see if you get the screen for TPMS. However, depending on what implementation your system supports;
• If you want temp and pressure you will definitely need the CIC - the older (TPMS) systems didn't display the temp, nor the actual pressure -> it only showed you that all tires were green or which tires were thrown (red). It might require a newer RDC module as well to make use of the temps properly.
• This is the mid to late 2000's implementation; from what I understand there is a MUCH more simplified version of it now...which is FAR MORE EXPENSIVE...probably because of the fact that its newer more expensive electronics with higher efficiency allowing for longer lasting batteries in higher frequency applications.

This of course meant that to do a full and complete retrofit, that I needed some more parts:

• 8 wires at 30' (set in a box) of wire at 26AWG from ebay ($8.99)
• 1k Tyco connectors (both male $30 and female $20) from China off a particular seller from ebay - MUCH cheaper than buying them from BMW or other places.
• Klein's professional crimper ($40) and the dies ($15 each) for (1 - Fakra Connectors SMB and HSD) as well as for (2 - Tyco connectors). I did NOT buy the insanely expensive Crimper for crimping the center pin on Fakra Connectors, the klein's die that covers both the sleeve and the center pin works fine - you just have to crimp the center pin twice with the smaller size to round it off for Fakra crimping.
  
  I'm only trying to show the sharing of cost here, building cables for GPS/HSD Connections is not necessary for this retrofit.
• A roll of Coroplast wiring harness tape (same stuff BMW uses) for 8.99 off ebay

I'm getting ready to do this retrofit having all the parts on hand, and I'll share where I end up connecting everywhere I need to - and whether there are any modules I end up having to upgrade in the end in order to make this work.

Perhaps this retrofit was insanely expensive and not worth it at one point - but its been rather cheap for me. I bought new wheels from a 2010 BMW 5-series that came with 4x brand new tires (for 300 from ebay), and I bought the sensor electronics for about $80.00; they can be reused if they have life left in them - so it doesnt seem unrealistic to me to buy new rims and simply fit them, nor to simply buy another set so you have them on both rims. If it costs you 1k..then you had expensive rims, if it costs you a lot for tires, then you bought expensive tires....but the electronics for this...are very cheap.

I did also want to add that the real key indicator for whether or not your wheels have the sensors - is if you have gray/silver aluminum valve caps/stems. Cars with TPMS always have these from like 2004+ (maybe even earlier) - It's a signature thing with BMW, the style anyways. FTM equpiped cars have normal plastic valve stem caps and normal rubber stems.

I posted this today, as I said, because I was getting ready to do this retrofit today (I'm also wiring in a HiFi retrofit...so wanted to tackle both if I could) and searching for some direction in wiring it in... I'll end up making a diagram ultimately - maybe putting it into its own DIY, but sharing this much as this forum and topic showed up for me when searching. The closest thing I've found to someone else doing this - was on a different car (not an e60), but it may end up helping me out a bit so I'll share it too:

BMW Tire Pressure Monitor Retrofit From E39 M5

Jaystyles

Good stuff thanks for sharing all this. Please let us know how everything worked out!