FS: E60 OEM amp PnP trunk subwoofer harness with built in LOC
09-28-2010, 04:04 AM
#62
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[#10226] You are not allowed to use the private messaging system.
is what i get can you email me slopson@gmail.com
is what i get can you email me slopson@gmail.com
10-07-2010, 05:05 PM
#66
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My Ride: Amethest Grey 530i--AC Schnitzer Kit all the way around--Quad Magna Flow Exhaust--20" MMR wheel 4.5 inch lip--
Just something to share and a question I guess. I installed a Kenwood Mono-amp in my car. My set up was very simple.
Things I needed:
1. Amp with speaker level inputs for ex. a Kenwood KAC-8105D Mono amp with speaker level inputs <--- what I used
2. 10" Subwoofer and Box for the trunk. <-- what I used
3. Wire tap like these. http://www.midterminc.com/en-us/dept_52.html <--- to make the speaker level connection
4. Power Cable with fuse and Ground cable. <--- to power the amp
All I needed to figure out was which wires on the harness powered the subwoofers. I used this diagram
Then I tapped the Speaker level input harness that came with the amp into the wires that feed the Stock Subs.In particular, On the left side (+R/W and -Br/y) and right side (+R/Blue and -Br/W). These wires you will notice are thicker that the rest.
Next, I Connected the power and ground to the Amp and the Sub box with Sub and plugged in the speaker level input harness.
Note no remote wire is needed because the amp's speaker level input sensitivity automatically turns on and off the amp.
Then I turned on the car and the amp turned on and it all worked.
Things I needed:
1. Amp with speaker level inputs for ex. a Kenwood KAC-8105D Mono amp with speaker level inputs <--- what I used
2. 10" Subwoofer and Box for the trunk. <-- what I used
3. Wire tap like these. http://www.midterminc.com/en-us/dept_52.html <--- to make the speaker level connection
4. Power Cable with fuse and Ground cable. <--- to power the amp
All I needed to figure out was which wires on the harness powered the subwoofers. I used this diagram
Then I tapped the Speaker level input harness that came with the amp into the wires that feed the Stock Subs.In particular, On the left side (+R/W and -Br/y) and right side (+R/Blue and -Br/W). These wires you will notice are thicker that the rest.
Next, I Connected the power and ground to the Amp and the Sub box with Sub and plugged in the speaker level input harness.
Note no remote wire is needed because the amp's speaker level input sensitivity automatically turns on and off the amp.
Then I turned on the car and the amp turned on and it all worked.
How do you think this works compared the the converter technic is selling? My amp has the speaker level inputs. Besides just not cutting wires do you guys think there is a sound quality advantage to the product or should I just use my amp that has it built in?
10-07-2010, 07:15 PM
#67
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My Ride: 2004 BMW 545i 6mt, Titanium Silver, Sport Package, Winter Package
Yes it will work with speaker level input sub however, technic's product is plug and play and takes the headache of figuring out what wire does what and the whole splicing issue. IMO I would purchase his product.
10-08-2010, 08:53 AM
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I recommend a box in the trunk if the OEM system is the Logic7, as at least you will have a 7-band EQ to make some adjustments to the rest of the speakers to better blend with the sub and the OEM amp is decently powered so the sub can be tuned to not overwhelm the system.
For the HiFi there is no such 7-band EQ and the overall system power is lacking, so a trunk sub could be too much for the system to blend. My recommendation for the HiFi is to try the SWS-8 instead with a 2-channel amp as they will be also the midbass drivers in your system. Any compact 100W-150W RMS 2-channel amp will do, like the PDX 2.150, the Rockford Fosgate P400-2, the JL Audio XD200/2 (shipping in July) or at the high end the Zapco DC350.2 with built in DSP.
The SWS-8 are great woofers that play very low (I would not call them real subwoofers), but by the same token they do not play midbass that great without EQ. DSP can fix that, so that's something to be considered.
For the HiFi there is no such 7-band EQ and the overall system power is lacking, so a trunk sub could be too much for the system to blend. My recommendation for the HiFi is to try the SWS-8 instead with a 2-channel amp as they will be also the midbass drivers in your system. Any compact 100W-150W RMS 2-channel amp will do, like the PDX 2.150, the Rockford Fosgate P400-2, the JL Audio XD200/2 (shipping in July) or at the high end the Zapco DC350.2 with built in DSP.
The SWS-8 are great woofers that play very low (I would not call them real subwoofers), but by the same token they do not play midbass that great without EQ. DSP can fix that, so that's something to be considered.
1. is the power wire that runs from the battery big enough to support a 2nd 150-watt amp via this harness? usually they use at least 4ga wire...the wires in this harness are tiny!
2. if you do the SWS-8's, wouldn't it be difficult to run speaker wire from under the seats to the amp--could you instead find the wires on your harness here and splice off of them instead?
10-08-2010, 08:59 AM
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My Ride: 05 545/6
2. if you do the SWS-8's, wouldn't it be difficult to run speaker wire from under the seats to the amp--could you instead find the wires on your harness here and splice off of them instead?
10-08-2010, 09:15 AM
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do NOT use this harness to power your additional amp!! use this harness only for the turn-on relay and signal. scroll back to the first page, you'll see my pics where you can easily add a 4-8ga power lead directly to the input side of the fuse panel in the trunk without any fuss. the terminal is already there, waiting to be used.
Technic can answer that, but yes that is possible.
Technic can answer that, but yes that is possible.
i'm not really concerned for what sounds BETTER, but what is easier--replacing subs under the seats and splicing off the wires to a new amp, or just adding a new sub to the new amp? do you have to remove the seats to put in the SWS-8s (or take out the stockers for that matter)? i think if you used technic's harness and spliced the speaker wires from HIS harness on the underseat speakers, then you aren't clipping/splicing any factory wiring, which of course to most people is important. i just wonder if that would cause any problems with the stock amp and idrive to freak out if it has two speaker wires providing a blank signal?
earlier technic mentioned getting a new center channel in the front dashboard like the l7 has. if you have the hifi system and open up that speaker grill in the dash, will you find speaker wires there or do you have to run new ones? any recommendations on running new ones?
i will probably be interested in purchasing the product also. forgot the battery was in the trunk, too