kd7iwp

Did you replace your turbos or just have the wastegate linkage replaced?

I noticed that the output seals from your passenger side axle carrier and the front diff have the red plastic piece in them to assist in sliding the axle in. My Bentley manual says that new seals will come with these guides and oddly mine did not, even though I bought the seals from my local BMW dealership. I'm assuming it won't be a problem to put the axle in without those, but thought it was interesting to note.

gman6262

I replaced the turbos with Mitsubishi OEM replacements from Turner Motorsports. They were drop in replacements except for one small wastegate actuator bracket which I needed to swap from the old turbos. They’re running great.

The red plastic bits on the Front diff output seals are not guides - they are too small. I think they just protect the sealing surface and make sure it stays round during installation.

joed

Amazing amount of work there. I’m comfortable with old cars and have replaced the starter on my e61. Inspiring to see you do this at home. Gives me hope that I’ll be able to tackle some of the harder jobs down the road.

gman6262

Here's a 16 month update on this major repair. The repair has mostly been sucessful - full boost from the turbos, reliable operation. A few problems emerged however - my resealing of the small cover plate on the right hand side of the oil pan (where the front right drive axle passes through the oil pan) ended up leaking worse than before. I also just recently got low boost pressure faults and reduced engine power errors. I've had the car in the garage for a week now, troubleshooting everything and figuring out what's going on. Low boost pressure was caused primarly by a bad vacuum line to the rear turbo wastegate actuator (this was a vacuum line I replace with hose supplied with the turner motorsports Mitsubishi turbo kit - I think the vacuum line was cheap). I'll be replacing all the vacuum lines in the car with silicone hose. I tested the turbo pressure controllers - both were bad and I'm in the process of replacing them now. I also tested both pop-off valves - and the rear one was bad, it's now been replaced.

I just got all my parts yesterday, in the process of putting everything back together now. I did a short writeup on repairing a small leak in one of my transmission oil cooler hose quick disconnects here: https://www.fightchaos.com/2020/08/r...il-cooler.html and a post on the oil pan side cover repair here: https://www.fightchaos.com/2020/09/b...-pan-leak.html. With the right front drive axle removed, and the exhaust system removed, I saw that I had pretty good access to the oxygen sensors and since they haven't been replaced yet at 205,000 km, I've decided to replace them now while everything is apart. That's gone well - fairly easy to remove all four O2 sensors and I have the front 2 sensors back in and torqued down already. Here's a few photos - I'll put in an update when everything is done.


Replacing the O-Rings in the Transmission Cooler Hose Quick Connect Fittings.


Oil pan side cover re-sealing. Tip here is to let the sealant cure for 48 hours before torquing fasteners (not 1 hour as recommended in the sealant instructions)

kd7iwp

Shoot, I’m sorry to hear about the recent issues. When you did all this work it inspired me to remove my own turbos and replace front diff seals and whatnot (though not nearly to the extent you did). Mind if I ask how you tested the boost solenoids? It seems like I have read others say they are not particularly easy to test other than putting a gauge on the output side of the solenoid while driving.

gman6262

Testing the pressure controllers was pretty simple, you can do this in the car. I bought a handheld vacuum pump with gauge, since I was going to be testing all vacuum components on the engine - wastegate actuators, pressure controllers and the pop off valves. To test the pressure controllers, disconnect the two hoses and the electrical connection, apply vacuum to the inlet port (from the vacuum reservoirs) - and the pressure controller should be closed, and allow vacuum to build without releasing it. Both my controllers failed this test - they were leaking vacuum to the outlet port (to the wastegate actuators). I could tell because I could only build vacuum with the pump holding my finger over the outlet port. Second test would be to build vacuum, then slowly let it off by applying quick pulses of 12v to the controller electrical contacts (you can use battery power and test leads) - the pressure controller should allow you to slowly and evenly drop vacuum over several pulses. A bad pressure controller may let off all vacuum with a single pulse of 12v. Third - the pressure controller should be able to hold vacuum even during vibration (you can apply vacuum then tap the end of the controller with a small wrench or screwdriver). My controllers would lose their vacuum with minor tapping - when holding my finger over the outlet.

The handheld vacuum pump is a nice tool - I found that one of my pop-off valves was bad (the rear one) and the vacuum line between the rear pressure controller and turbo actuator was crushed (probably the main reason I was getting the low boost pressure code).

Bennhct

I have deep admiration for what you’ve done and I am sure you’ll be running to 300,000+. I’ve had trouble sorting boost leaks and the crap plastic parts don’t help. I replaced the piping with aftermarket metal and I can (at least) cross that source off the list.

im on to rewriting headlights for the look i want. Never knew I like electrical. Time will tell.

kd7iwp

Mind sharing what you have in mind for your lights?