Hi !
Late answer for this problem but anyway. This helps a lot
http://www.google.no/url?sa=t&rct=j&...FOmGaKVwdyzsMg

 

hmm, look up this topic and you will find this one : https://5series.net/forums/topic/727...st__p__1060146
Post is by the author of the DIY .

 

Thanks for your guide, I had exactly the same issue (tailgate would open intermittently when the car was started). I noticed if I locked the doors using the lock switch on the dash this would prevent the tailgate opening when the car came to a stop while the engine was still running. I replaced the microswitch (cost 39 euro in Ireland) easily following your guide. I found that I didn't need the bearing puller, a gentle pry with a large flat blade screwdriver was enough to lever the wiper arm loose.

I opened the defective microswitch unit by levering the end cap off and found that it was drenched with water. The water was reducing the resistance across the pressure pad sufficiently to trigger the unlock mechanism intermittently. Removing the end cap on a non functional switch would give you access to the flexible circuitboard and it should be possible to trigger the unlock mechanism manually this way by attaching a resistor across the contacts (don't know what value - you would need to measure a good one first by connecting a multimeter across the plug pins and pushing the unlock button). Of course this assumes that the wire feed to the micoswitch hasn't been damaged in the tailgate hinge area.

 

I have a 58 reg 520 touring. (not long out of warranty!!)
I have a tailgate glass opening problem.

I have read a number of posts on a number of forums.
I thought I had a switch problem but now I am not sure it may be the wiring.

Symptoms are:
insert keyfob.
Start engine parcel curtain lifts and glass hatch releases.
Close hatch and it cannot be reopened - only way is to switch off and start engine.
I originally got battery disscharge message but not now.
Can anybody tell me is it the switch or cable issue, or should I do switch first then cable if not fixed?
Thanks

 

the cheapest one to check is the cable, the easiest to fix is the switch which obviously costs.... your call, me personally, i'd be stripping the wires down the right hand side (think its the centre duct that goes to the glass).... the left set dont control the glass.

 

I had both the remote keys for my 2008 E62 525d (LCI) stop working one day, and after reading other threads on this forum, the prime suspect was a faulty or waterlogged Diversity Amplifier. Following their guidance I was able to gain access to it and quickly see that the unit was fine, and in fact (as suggested by another knowledgeable member) my car had been built with the running change to improve the sealing around this unit.

Whilst investigating this I happened to notice that my high level brake light also wasn't working, which lead me to this thread and the very useful guide from hgulikers and the posts by others. Now I could look in the right place I was very quickly able to see that the previous owner had already repaired some wires going through the hinge, albeit badly, and that two other wires had broken, causing both my problems. I soldered in some new wire and now it's all good.

Big thanks to all those who have passed on their knowledge, and no doubt saved me a big bill at the garage!

 

hello! thank you all for the information. I was having issues with the right reverse light and automatic door button on my 2008 535xi and was able to fix it with the information provided, although i am not sure of my fix's long term durability. Has anyone used the official bmw kit for their repair or seen the instructions referenced in the parts diagram? In the parts diagram for the repair kits, it appears to have plugs, which with my soldiering skills (or lack there of) would be preferred. Thanks in advance for your help!

Here's the diagram i am speaking of for reference:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...78&hg=61&fg=10

 

Looking at the diagram, it seems to me as if those repair wiring harnesses didn't extend all the way to ceiling where the speakers are at. I think they end on the tailgate side of the hinges. Does anyone know for fact? And what good would those do if they were so short?

 

Hello everybody! You who got this problem with the upper brakelight, are there some LED's in the brakelight that doesn't work or are the brake light not working at all (upper brakelight). Why i am sking this is because some of my led is not working in theupper brakelight. Best regards /Peter

 

Hi everybody

Having the same problem as most of you with the cables to alot of things around the trunk. I've read alot here but i can't find out if there is any one that know how to get the tailgate opend if it's not working at all. How do I open it with broken cables

Would be nice if som one could tell me how or show me where in the forum I can get this kind of information!

A great thank you to those who can help me!