E61 Remote Key Fob Again!!
#21
I am having a similar problem with my remote locking not working in my 2008 LCI 535xiT (without comfort access).
I was having a problem with my right rear reverse light coming on intermittently, and knew I would have to fix the wiring harnesses in the hinge at some point. Then one day the remote locking ceased to work, so I figured the wires to the diversity antenna had finally severed. I opened up the hinge and replaced the broken wires in the rightmost hinge (going to the rear hatch glass). One (solid brown I believe) was severed completely, and two more were frayed, including the large positive power cable (likely leading to shorts with the right rear reverse light). The white and white/blue wires which I believe go to the diversity antenna for the remote locking were fine. I should mention that the AM/FM/SAT/GPS radios all work well.
While I had the rear spoiler disassembled, I removed and inspected the diversity antenna for corrosion. It looked pristine, with no signs any moisture had gotten in. My car was manufactured 03/2008, and had the additional foam padding installed in the spoiler to protect from water entry. I also checked all the 5 amp fuses involved in locking, and all looked good. I pulled codes, and there were none corresponding to low voltage faults or anything involving the rear tailgate.
After all of this, the remote locking still doesn't work. Locking/unlocking using the key in the door works fine. Any ideas? Has anyone come across a wiring diagram for the rear hatch?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Edit to add:
Found a wiring diagram on one of the sites posted previously: BMW-Planet.com
I was having a problem with my right rear reverse light coming on intermittently, and knew I would have to fix the wiring harnesses in the hinge at some point. Then one day the remote locking ceased to work, so I figured the wires to the diversity antenna had finally severed. I opened up the hinge and replaced the broken wires in the rightmost hinge (going to the rear hatch glass). One (solid brown I believe) was severed completely, and two more were frayed, including the large positive power cable (likely leading to shorts with the right rear reverse light). The white and white/blue wires which I believe go to the diversity antenna for the remote locking were fine. I should mention that the AM/FM/SAT/GPS radios all work well.
While I had the rear spoiler disassembled, I removed and inspected the diversity antenna for corrosion. It looked pristine, with no signs any moisture had gotten in. My car was manufactured 03/2008, and had the additional foam padding installed in the spoiler to protect from water entry. I also checked all the 5 amp fuses involved in locking, and all looked good. I pulled codes, and there were none corresponding to low voltage faults or anything involving the rear tailgate.
After all of this, the remote locking still doesn't work. Locking/unlocking using the key in the door works fine. Any ideas? Has anyone come across a wiring diagram for the rear hatch?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Edit to add:
Found a wiring diagram on one of the sites posted previously: BMW-Planet.com
Last edited by InsipidMonkey; 02-04-2014 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Add wiring diagram
#22
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Insipid your lot sounds like mine, fixed all the wires and still not working. I suspect I may just have to bite the bullet and buy a new Diversity and hope its works. Is there no way to check the wfunctionality of the old one somehow?
#23
Someone said a dealership let them test a new diversity antenna to confirm that was the issue. If you plan on buying the unit from them or have a good relationship with your SA, this might be an option.
As for my issue, I got fed up and tore everything apart again to recheck my splices. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong, but once it was reassembled it started working.
The roads are terrible around here with potholes now, and I noticed my rear hatch glass is rattling over the bumps. After taking a closer look, the nuts holding the glass to the hinge that I disassembled to get at the wiring loom had begun to loosen. I plan to pick up some threadlock compound and tighten these down again. A word of caution, if you remove the hinge nuts to release the wire guide, the spring is very strong once it gets about halfway up. I nearly launched one of the nuts across the garage through a window the first time I removed it.
As for my issue, I got fed up and tore everything apart again to recheck my splices. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong, but once it was reassembled it started working.
The roads are terrible around here with potholes now, and I noticed my rear hatch glass is rattling over the bumps. After taking a closer look, the nuts holding the glass to the hinge that I disassembled to get at the wiring loom had begun to loosen. I plan to pick up some threadlock compound and tighten these down again. A word of caution, if you remove the hinge nuts to release the wire guide, the spring is very strong once it gets about halfway up. I nearly launched one of the nuts across the garage through a window the first time I removed it.
#24
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My Ride: '06 530xiT
Model Year: 2006
Here was my thread on it:
https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...lready-116438/
And a pic of the inside of mine, the board, with rust and oxidation and calcium buildup:
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https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...lready-116438/
And a pic of the inside of mine, the board, with rust and oxidation and calcium buildup:
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Unbelievable; I just pulled mine out today and it looks almost exactly the same.
I'm going to try to clean it. Really upset that I'm going to need a $300 part and not even going to be sure that it fixes my remote issue.
#26
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Does someone have a link to a tutorial for checking the wire looms in the rear hinges? I know I saw one somewhere in the hundreds of forum threads I've read, but can't find it now that I think this might be my problem.
Key not working, new battery in remote. When I use the hard key the alarm does NOT go off. The spoiler looked dry as a bone inside, but I'm going to open up the actual antenna tomorrow to see I find the same corrosion.
I downloaded the fuse diagram linked in this thread and it definitely does not match my car. I've got a 2006 530xi wagon. This is my first BMW and I'm a DIYer and this fob thing is wearing me out.
*** Never mind. Found it. Although maybe someone can answer this question. When talking about the right and left side does this mean if you're looking at the car from the rear or from the front? Thanks.
Key not working, new battery in remote. When I use the hard key the alarm does NOT go off. The spoiler looked dry as a bone inside, but I'm going to open up the actual antenna tomorrow to see I find the same corrosion.
I downloaded the fuse diagram linked in this thread and it definitely does not match my car. I've got a 2006 530xi wagon. This is my first BMW and I'm a DIYer and this fob thing is wearing me out.
*** Never mind. Found it. Although maybe someone can answer this question. When talking about the right and left side does this mean if you're looking at the car from the rear or from the front? Thanks.
Last edited by jkfdavmat1; 06-28-2014 at 08:38 PM.
#27
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Well I bought a new Diversity unit and changed it over and the locking system still doesn't work. Grrrrrrr!
#29
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I gave up and gave it to a specialist and he found the wire had broken in more than one place (I had only found the most obvious) so you really do need to see all the wire to know its not the wire that's your problem. Thankfully it now all works as before and only as of last week so it has been a long haul as I almost have up.
#30
That looks pretty shagged to me. Mine was like this but I managed to repair the corroded circuit board with a magnifying glass and some soldering equipment; the tiny electrical connections corrode and lose continuity. You can shine a light on the back of the board to check. If you wiring is fine this will cause key-fob issues.