Breyton gts-r info
03-09-2010, 02:22 AM
#12
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03-09-2010, 02:47 AM
#13
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My Ride: Alpine White 2006 530Xi (SLD)
Wow, I can't believe some of the crap I just read in this thread 
Ok, first of all,
Now, you have an XiT, so your offsets are NOT same as RWD cars. FORGET ABOUT RWD WHEELS. Forever.
Next, your stock offsets on the X-drive car are ET43 all around. You'll also notice that the fenders have quite a bit of space with the stock wheels, so you can definitely go more aggressive. How much more aggressive? You are in luck - just so happens that GTS-R's come in the exact offset, that is the most aggressive you can get on an AWD E60 - that is ET30 front and ET32 rear. I think Breyton's rears are ET33 or ET35 in the rear with the staggered setup, but no matter - as long as it is not more aggressive than ET32, you'll be ok
On to the next one: tire sizes. You are going to want to be sure that the overall rolling diameters of your front wheels are a very close match to your rears. This is OVERALL - counting the inflated tire. Why? Because you have X-drive, which uses rotational data from front and rear wheels to determine wheel-slip continually, adjusting the torque split via a differential to compensate for loss of traction. Normally, this is not anything you should be concerned with, until you get staggered wheels. Obviously, the varying diameters between fronts and rears will set off the differential, leading to a slow leak and an eventual demise thereof. There are online calculators to get the overall rolling diameters for any size tires, but since I'm a nice guy, I'll just tell you what you should be shooting for:
245/30/20 fronts - overall diameter 654.81mm
295/25/20 rears - overall diameter 655.32
As you can see, the overall diameters are within a millimeter from each other - negligible difference, safe to use.
Conversely, if you opt for 19s, you'll want 245/35/19 and 285/30/19 front and rear, respectively.
Your friend: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit
When you get these wheels and tires and mount them, you may have to deal with two more issues:
1. Rubbing. Solution is to roll the fender or stretch/pull it. Actually, if you go with the 20in GTS-R's with the 295-wide rear tire, the rubbing is pretty much guaranteed, so choose your offsets wisely. There are online offset calculators that can give you some idea of what is what - they are googlable
2. Vibrations. Solution is hubcentric rings. Before you get the rings, check to be sure the balancing is correct though. Vibrations occur when you mount wheels that are not hubcentric or have a different hub size. You can used realoem.com or search through the forum to find out your hub size and see if it matches the Breytons.
Lastly, dropping the car is highly NOT recommended with the H&R springs alone. Since there aren't any shocks to match these springs - at least, none that are known to fit - you're basically stuck with only one option. This option is KW Variant 3 coilovers. If you're wondering why H&R springs aren't good, I highly encourage you to do your own research. But again, since I have done it already, I can tell you that your handling will get messed up, your ride will suffer varying degrees of bouncing and crashing, and eventually, will lead to a premature failure of suspension components.
I'm really stoked by your plans, actually and hope you get everything done beautifully. Would sure like to see pics of it when everything's finished.
Good Luck!
Ok, first of all,
Now, you have an XiT, so your offsets are NOT same as RWD cars. FORGET ABOUT RWD WHEELS. Forever.
Next, your stock offsets on the X-drive car are ET43 all around. You'll also notice that the fenders have quite a bit of space with the stock wheels, so you can definitely go more aggressive. How much more aggressive? You are in luck - just so happens that GTS-R's come in the exact offset, that is the most aggressive you can get on an AWD E60 - that is ET30 front and ET32 rear. I think Breyton's rears are ET33 or ET35 in the rear with the staggered setup, but no matter - as long as it is not more aggressive than ET32, you'll be ok
On to the next one: tire sizes. You are going to want to be sure that the overall rolling diameters of your front wheels are a very close match to your rears. This is OVERALL - counting the inflated tire. Why? Because you have X-drive, which uses rotational data from front and rear wheels to determine wheel-slip continually, adjusting the torque split via a differential to compensate for loss of traction. Normally, this is not anything you should be concerned with, until you get staggered wheels. Obviously, the varying diameters between fronts and rears will set off the differential, leading to a slow leak and an eventual demise thereof. There are online calculators to get the overall rolling diameters for any size tires, but since I'm a nice guy, I'll just tell you what you should be shooting for:
245/30/20 fronts - overall diameter 654.81mm
295/25/20 rears - overall diameter 655.32
As you can see, the overall diameters are within a millimeter from each other - negligible difference, safe to use.
Conversely, if you opt for 19s, you'll want 245/35/19 and 285/30/19 front and rear, respectively.
Your friend: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit
When you get these wheels and tires and mount them, you may have to deal with two more issues:
1. Rubbing. Solution is to roll the fender or stretch/pull it. Actually, if you go with the 20in GTS-R's with the 295-wide rear tire, the rubbing is pretty much guaranteed, so choose your offsets wisely. There are online offset calculators that can give you some idea of what is what - they are googlable
2. Vibrations. Solution is hubcentric rings. Before you get the rings, check to be sure the balancing is correct though. Vibrations occur when you mount wheels that are not hubcentric or have a different hub size. You can used realoem.com or search through the forum to find out your hub size and see if it matches the Breytons.
Lastly, dropping the car is highly NOT recommended with the H&R springs alone. Since there aren't any shocks to match these springs - at least, none that are known to fit - you're basically stuck with only one option. This option is KW Variant 3 coilovers. If you're wondering why H&R springs aren't good, I highly encourage you to do your own research. But again, since I have done it already, I can tell you that your handling will get messed up, your ride will suffer varying degrees of bouncing and crashing, and eventually, will lead to a premature failure of suspension components.
I'm really stoked by your plans, actually and hope you get everything done beautifully. Would sure like to see pics of it when everything's finished.
Good Luck!
03-09-2010, 04:08 AM
#15
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Wow, I can't believe some of the crap I just read in this thread
Ok, first of all,
Now, you have an XiT, so your offsets are NOT same as RWD cars. FORGET ABOUT RWD WHEELS. Forever.
Next, your stock offsets on the X-drive car are ET43 all around. You'll also notice that the fenders have quite a bit of space with the stock wheels, so you can definitely go more aggressive. How much more aggressive? You are in luck - just so happens that GTS-R's come in the exact offset, that is the most aggressive you can get on an AWD E60 - that is ET30 front and ET32 rear. I think Breyton's rears are ET33 or ET35 in the rear with the staggered setup, but no matter - as long as it is not more aggressive than ET32, you'll be ok
On to the next one: tire sizes. You are going to want to be sure that the overall rolling diameters of your front wheels are a very close match to your rears. This is OVERALL - counting the inflated tire. Why? Because you have X-drive, which uses rotational data from front and rear wheels to determine wheel-slip continually, adjusting the torque split via a differential to compensate for loss of traction. Normally, this is not anything you should be concerned with, until you get staggered wheels. Obviously, the varying diameters between fronts and rears will set off the differential, leading to a slow leak and an eventual demise thereof. There are online calculators to get the overall rolling diameters for any size tires, but since I'm a nice guy, I'll just tell you what you should be shooting for:
245/30/20 fronts - overall diameter 654.81mm
295/25/20 rears - overall diameter 655.32
As you can see, the overall diameters are within a millimeter from each other - negligible difference, safe to use.
Conversely, if you opt for 19s, you'll want 245/35/19 and 285/30/19 front and rear, respectively.
Your friend: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit
When you get these wheels and tires and mount them, you may have to deal with two more issues:
1. Rubbing. Solution is to roll the fender or stretch/pull it. Actually, if you go with the 20in GTS-R's with the 295-wide rear tire, the rubbing is pretty much guaranteed, so choose your offsets wisely. There are online offset calculators that can give you some idea of what is what - they are googlable
2. Vibrations. Solution is hubcentric rings. Before you get the rings, check to be sure the balancing is correct though. Vibrations occur when you mount wheels that are not hubcentric or have a different hub size. You can used realoem.com or search through the forum to find out your hub size and see if it matches the Breytons.
Lastly, dropping the car is highly NOT recommended with the H&R springs alone. Since there aren't any shocks to match these springs - at least, none that are known to fit - you're basically stuck with only one option. This option is KW Variant 3 coilovers. If you're wondering why H&R springs aren't good, I highly encourage you to do your own research. But again, since I have done it already, I can tell you that your handling will get messed up, your ride will suffer varying degrees of bouncing and crashing, and eventually, will lead to a premature failure of suspension components.
I'm really stoked by your plans, actually and hope you get everything done beautifully. Would sure like to see pics of it when everything's finished.
Good Luck!
Ok, first of all,
Now, you have an XiT, so your offsets are NOT same as RWD cars. FORGET ABOUT RWD WHEELS. Forever.
Next, your stock offsets on the X-drive car are ET43 all around. You'll also notice that the fenders have quite a bit of space with the stock wheels, so you can definitely go more aggressive. How much more aggressive? You are in luck - just so happens that GTS-R's come in the exact offset, that is the most aggressive you can get on an AWD E60 - that is ET30 front and ET32 rear. I think Breyton's rears are ET33 or ET35 in the rear with the staggered setup, but no matter - as long as it is not more aggressive than ET32, you'll be ok
On to the next one: tire sizes. You are going to want to be sure that the overall rolling diameters of your front wheels are a very close match to your rears. This is OVERALL - counting the inflated tire. Why? Because you have X-drive, which uses rotational data from front and rear wheels to determine wheel-slip continually, adjusting the torque split via a differential to compensate for loss of traction. Normally, this is not anything you should be concerned with, until you get staggered wheels. Obviously, the varying diameters between fronts and rears will set off the differential, leading to a slow leak and an eventual demise thereof. There are online calculators to get the overall rolling diameters for any size tires, but since I'm a nice guy, I'll just tell you what you should be shooting for:
245/30/20 fronts - overall diameter 654.81mm
295/25/20 rears - overall diameter 655.32
As you can see, the overall diameters are within a millimeter from each other - negligible difference, safe to use.
Conversely, if you opt for 19s, you'll want 245/35/19 and 285/30/19 front and rear, respectively.
Your friend: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit
When you get these wheels and tires and mount them, you may have to deal with two more issues:
1. Rubbing. Solution is to roll the fender or stretch/pull it. Actually, if you go with the 20in GTS-R's with the 295-wide rear tire, the rubbing is pretty much guaranteed, so choose your offsets wisely. There are online offset calculators that can give you some idea of what is what - they are googlable
2. Vibrations. Solution is hubcentric rings. Before you get the rings, check to be sure the balancing is correct though. Vibrations occur when you mount wheels that are not hubcentric or have a different hub size. You can used realoem.com or search through the forum to find out your hub size and see if it matches the Breytons.
Lastly, dropping the car is highly NOT recommended with the H&R springs alone. Since there aren't any shocks to match these springs - at least, none that are known to fit - you're basically stuck with only one option. This option is KW Variant 3 coilovers. If you're wondering why H&R springs aren't good, I highly encourage you to do your own research. But again, since I have done it already, I can tell you that your handling will get messed up, your ride will suffer varying degrees of bouncing and crashing, and eventually, will lead to a premature failure of suspension components.
I'm really stoked by your plans, actually and hope you get everything done beautifully. Would sure like to see pics of it when everything's finished.
Good Luck!
03-09-2010, 04:34 AM
#16
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My Ride: Alpine White 2006 530Xi (SLD)
you're cool, Kuul
I would say VMR is much more attainable, since I think the GTS-Rs are being phased out. I think tirerack.com has taken Breyton GTS-R out of their inventory, but check there (if you haven't yet).
If you live where there aren't that many potholes, then you've got nothing to worry about. The only issue that I've heard is that VMRs may be susceptible to bending, but again, in Fla it shouldn't be a problem.
Rears should better be 285/30/19s - the 275s will yield a bigger difference in rolling diameters, increasing the chances of long-term damage to the differential.
ET38 in the rear will be perfect, but keep in mind that if you want that "flush" look, you should probably shoot for ET35 or even ET33 in the back. If you want to be safer, go with the ET38's and get spacers if needed. I personally don't think that using spacers is the best thing, so I don't recommend it, unless it is basically unavoidable.
For another alternative for wheels, check out:
-Miro 111
-Vorsteiner CS-01
-Forgestar F14
My personal fave - and hopefully, my future purchase - are the Vorsteiners. But I am going by weight as well as design too - I want to lower the unsprung weight as much as I can. We have plenty of vendors on this forum, who sell all of the above and more. Specifically, if you go DPE - which is completely customizable forged wheel - I'd recommend Acute Performance. For Vorsteiners, EuroRev seems to have the best deal. Forgestars - not sure, same for Miros and VMRs - you just have to have all the fun yourself, searching for the vendor and finding best deals
wow ! thanks you so much for all the info. Well I cant find a 20 inch wheel and I cant find a source to get 20 inch breyton with the proper offsets (can you recommend any place to get these wheels with the right offsets ?) Either way if there isnt a solution to that I think I will go with the 19 VMR wheels in staggered fitments. What do you think of going with 19 x 8.5 with 245/35/19 tires up front and 19 x 10 with 275/30/19 tires in back - front offset +40 and the rear offset +38 ? One of the other members did this same set up but I'd like to know your thoughts on it ? Thanks in advance.
If you live where there aren't that many potholes, then you've got nothing to worry about. The only issue that I've heard is that VMRs may be susceptible to bending, but again, in Fla it shouldn't be a problem.
Rears should better be 285/30/19s - the 275s will yield a bigger difference in rolling diameters, increasing the chances of long-term damage to the differential.
ET38 in the rear will be perfect, but keep in mind that if you want that "flush" look, you should probably shoot for ET35 or even ET33 in the back. If you want to be safer, go with the ET38's and get spacers if needed. I personally don't think that using spacers is the best thing, so I don't recommend it, unless it is basically unavoidable.
For another alternative for wheels, check out:
-Miro 111
-Vorsteiner CS-01
-Forgestar F14
My personal fave - and hopefully, my future purchase - are the Vorsteiners. But I am going by weight as well as design too - I want to lower the unsprung weight as much as I can. We have plenty of vendors on this forum, who sell all of the above and more. Specifically, if you go DPE - which is completely customizable forged wheel - I'd recommend Acute Performance. For Vorsteiners, EuroRev seems to have the best deal. Forgestars - not sure, same for Miros and VMRs - you just have to have all the fun yourself, searching for the vendor and finding best deals
03-09-2010, 05:14 AM
#19
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My Ride: E61 535d
Well let's get serious again. Is it so that there is no springs what so ever available for the AWD, just coils? At least in Europe the H&R is quite respected spring manufacturer and many RWD driver is using them on E61's Getting a bit OT, but anyways..
03-09-2010, 06:47 AM
#20
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My Ride: 2010 VW Passat Wagon 2.0l Tsi
Grey/Grey Budapest 18"
Lost to HPFP issues:
08 535i sport pkg
Lost to Dreaded E61 Sun roof leaks:
07 E61 530Xi
Kinda why I put up a warning about how alot of the E61 poster are from EUROPE and DON'T HAVE AWD CARS, like we do in the USA and CANADA.... 