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For me it looks not good, charge level low, dont remmeber , but its looks somethink like:
74%
79%
83%
I will post it later. But ISTA shows that these charge levels is ok.
I Found one internet site, that are all junk yards in one place, and they accept returns without reason, shipping is 5 €, so i can try to order used LM for a try.
Last edited by Bmwpower530; 10-16-2022 at 08:18 AM.
Battery was 5 years old, i was hoping that new will hold more than 11.8v with ignition on and it was for two days 12.1-12.2v . After new battery installed and registered, strange charging voltage started. After car start 14.1-14.3v, drive for a 200 metres reading drops to 12,4v like its not charging at all , driving ~15km more readings drops 12.4-12v, then rise to 12.9v and holds for 50km of my trip, trip ends i parked car to my friends house and leave it running because my boy was sleeping in a car, readings on idle rised to 14.1-14.3v.
All sounds pretty normal. Ideally, the charged battery will hold more than 12 volts overnight, but I don't get my knickers in too tight a twist if / when it's a couple tenths of a volt lower after sitting overnight. And it's absolutely, positively (pun intended) normal for the battery voltage to drop to 12-something when you turn the car off. The reason it's near 14 volts when running is because you have to create a voltage differential to get current to flow INTO the battery. If the alternator was producing only the battery's resting voltage, no current would flow - or it would flow SO slowly that you'd have to run out a tank of gas to charge the battery.
If you're really worried about a voltage issue (battery and/or alternator) I recommend getting one of the cheap cigarette lighter plug-in voltmeters (most are also USB chargers) - only a few bucks from Amazon or elsewhere, and you can check the status of your electrical system constantly. You might want to check the calibration with a "real voltmeter" when you first get it, just to make sure it's accurate.
All sounds pretty normal. Ideally, the charged battery will hold more than 12 volts overnight, but I don't get my knickers in too tight a twist if / when it's a couple tenths of a volt lower after sitting overnight. And it's absolutely, positively (pun intended) normal for the battery voltage to drop to 12-something when you turn the car off. The reason it's near 14 volts when running is because you have to create a voltage differential to get current to flow INTO the battery. If the alternator was producing only the battery's resting voltage, no current would flow - or it would flow SO slowly that you'd have to run out a tank of gas to charge the battery.
If you're really worried about a voltage issue (battery and/or alternator) I recommend getting one of the cheap cigarette lighter plug-in voltmeters (most are also USB chargers) - only a few bucks from Amazon or elsewhere, and you can check the status of your electrical system constantly. You might want to check the calibration with a "real voltmeter" when you first get it, just to make sure it's accurate.
In kombi secret meniu there is battery voltage, and its same like voltmeter readings direct on battery, so no need aditional equipment.
Yea I'm looking at the pics and everything is normal
Maybe in this picture not everything is normal.
Sensor voltage 0v . Wtf? RLSS is green in ISTA. If im not wrong ISTA says that 0v readings from RLSS ? I measured it couple days ago it was 7.3v at RLSS connector, yes i know its to low. So if RLSS operating voltage is 9-15v and it gets just 7.3v its operates, but LM readings via LIN bus is 0v?
Last edited by Bmwpower530; 10-16-2022 at 03:34 PM.
This sheds light on the issue. Was the new RLSS initialized? Recheck voltage at every point from fuse to RLS module. There's a reason why voltage is not there. Was there some coding done previously that changed the parameters? It will show green on ISTA because the module is there and has no errors. The LM is not receiving communication from the RLS and that's why the error is in the LM instead of the RLS. What does it look like when you pull it up in INPA?
Yes it was initialized and coded, vin took itself because its new part. Fault occurred not after new RLSS was installed. I bought car with this fault code 4 years ago.
UPDATE! All 3 wires measured they are ok. After yesterday testing, 0v on RLSS connector (before 7.3v). RLSS red in ISTA, no communication with RLSS.
I thing fuse was the problem, it was like partial burned,
dissolved. I put new 5A fuse, now at connector i have battery voltage. Deleted fault codes, i will check faults after 2 days, and report.
Thanks for your inspiration guys.
Last edited by Bmwpower530; 10-17-2022 at 02:09 PM.
10-16-2022, 07:27 AM
