Auto Tail Gate Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement
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Auto Tail Gate Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement
So I've been searching the internet and forums for a couple of days now and can't seem to find any "how to" info out there. My problem seem unique. The ball pin joint where the cylinder attaches to the ball pin on the chassis has worn out so every time I go to open the tail gate it pops off. I've replaced the ball pin hoping for an easy $5 solution, but that didn't help at all. Now it looks like I have to replace the cylinder itself. Sadly this is a $660 part! It seems pretty straight forward but I would really appreciate it if someone had the service manual for this bit that might show bleeding procedures, etc.
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My Ride: 2001 320Ci Coupè
It's pretty straight forward, but the hoses is attached to the cylinder, so you need to remove those aswell. There's no need for bleeding of the system, as the loop is closed when you disconnect the hoses from the pump.
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Thanks awt! I was hoping you'd reply since you've done a retrofit on your car already. Love the ride BTW.
Ordered the cylinder today from ECS Tuning. They were about $100 cheaper than anyone else I could find. I've done business with them in the past for my Audi's. Just an FYI for anyone looking for parts.
Ordered the cylinder today from ECS Tuning. They were about $100 cheaper than anyone else I could find. I've done business with them in the past for my Audi's. Just an FYI for anyone looking for parts.
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My Ride: 2010 535 xi - M Sport Pkg & other goodies
For everyone else's benefit (I just had my cylinder replaced by the dealer), its part # is 51247163662. The part # of the hydraulic pump itself is 51247163661. My tailgate was making creaking sounds when it would close, and I took it in, and they ended up replacing the cylinder, but the sound persisted, and they said it's due to low oil in the pump, which they topped up, and the noise is gone.
However, I have a small leak in the pump apparently, so they said I might need to go back once every year or two to get it topped up (hoping it won't fail in the meantime). As with dealers, they said the pump is a $1600 CDN part, and I see it's listed at ECS for $750 US... And they wonder why people call them "stealers"...
However, I have a small leak in the pump apparently, so they said I might need to go back once every year or two to get it topped up (hoping it won't fail in the meantime). As with dealers, they said the pump is a $1600 CDN part, and I see it's listed at ECS for $750 US... And they wonder why people call them "stealers"...
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I'm finally getting around to installing this and I've got everything taken apart, but can't figure out where the one plug goes from the cylinder??? Small electrical plug with black, white and red wires. I don't see where it goes anywhere! I'm really trying NOT to take down the whole headliner to do this. Any help??
#7
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Looks like I found the task itself here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-locks/E2znLKs
Doesn't seem too harsh but from what I've read, it's a huge hassle and requires a lot of work. Do you guys agree? My shop guy said it would take no more than an hour or two. I'm just worried with all the hydraulic wires and such, messing up the entire door. Anyone do this recently?
Doesn't seem too harsh but from what I've read, it's a huge hassle and requires a lot of work. Do you guys agree? My shop guy said it would take no more than an hour or two. I'm just worried with all the hydraulic wires and such, messing up the entire door. Anyone do this recently?
Last edited by jadedj; 02-12-2018 at 11:47 AM.
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My Ride: '07 530xiT, '06 M3 Cabrio 6-sp., '09 X5 3.0 (wife's car), '88 535is
Model Year: 2007
So I've been searching the internet and forums for a couple of days now and can't seem to find any "how to" info out there. My problem seem unique. The ball pin joint where the cylinder attaches to the ball pin on the chassis has worn out so every time I go to open the tail gate it pops off. I've replaced the ball pin hoping for an easy $5 solution, but that didn't help at all. Now it looks like I have to replace the cylinder itself. Sadly this is a $660 part! It seems pretty straight forward but I would really appreciate it if someone had the service manual for this bit that might show bleeding procedures, etc.
https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...ounted-142904/
If your hydraulic cylinder is not leaking, then there's a fix for this without replacing the cylinder. It takes a new ball stud and installation of set screws into the bottom of the cylinder. Others have had success with various lock rings that get inserted inside the ball mount. You'll probably have to go back and replace the ball mount and/or set screws at some point, but it's a cheap and relatively easy fix compared to a new cylinder. Good luck!
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