Deano

Wow, without software programming the cost adds up to $2775.00.

I am hoping to improve the bass response and sound at slightly louder louder levels. My budget for this improvement is in the $300.00-$600 dollar range. I'm sure the L7 system sounds a lot better than mine, but I think if I wanted to spend ~3000.00, I could do much better with aftermarket components.

I do apreciate your interest in this, but we are departing from the original thread. I really want to hear from people who have completed the earthquake SWS-8 Subwoofer mod, and get their impressions.

bruce_miranda

The earthquake sub route is the cleanest of all installs and should give you plenty of bass. Actually to be honest if you buy a nice 50-70W RMS per channel amp with built in crossovers and Low Pass filters to drive you current speakers well you'll notice a world of different. I know this because I've tried it. The stock amp is not tuned well and cannot be tuned. I think that is the source of the problem.

Read http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=47747 to follow my story.

spindrome

Deano -


Change the sub amp first with an aftermarket amp. you'll notice a huge difference, even with the stock subwoofers under the seats. I don't think they stock 8's will last very long though. If you find you need more bottom end, then definitely go with the earthquake SWS-8s. They aren't the most efficient subs, BUT, they are the only drop in subs that will fit perfectly in the enclosures.

I listen to all kinds of music through my ipod. I have the ipod eq set to either "loudness" or "latin" to give me a so-called happy face eq setting. This reduce some of the mid frequencies from the front stock speakers.

To my ears, there's still something missing, especially in the say, 150-250hz range, but overall, if you are seeking some low end presence to go with the somewhat decent stock front stage, and, you want to save yourself some trunk space, then definitely go with the SWS install. You're not going to win any IASCA SPL competitions, but you will be able to rattle your license plate frame if you play some rap/hip-hop.

If you follow Bruce's sub intall thread, you'll be in good shape. If you know 12v and have all the tools (torx T50 an T10 sockets), you should be able to do the install yourself in a couple of hours. The stock wiring is all there in the left rear fender for you to tap into. You can even tap your main power for your aftermarket amp there since it's fused already with a 30amp fuse at the battery.

Good luck.

Merdashti

Deano,

The other cheaper alternative is going with Bruce's option - check out his posting.

Regards,
M.

Deano

Interesting, If I were to amplify all of the speakers, what wold the breakdown on amps be? One for the subs and a multi-channel for the rest? How many channels do I need? I know about the drivers in the rear package shelf and the front doors, but how many drivers are in the dash area? Are all of the stock speakers rated at 4 ohms like an aftermarket speaker? The way you connected your sub amp using the stock harnes was elegant! how would you suggest one would hook up to the rest of the stock speakers? Would you have to put an amp behind the glovebox?

bruce_miranda

You don't need to put an amp behind the glovebox. The HU is already sending line level outputs to the stock amp, you can use that itself. Do the upgrade in stages so you can stop when you want to.

In doing my earthquake upgrade I found out that the stock subs are 2ohm each and not 4ohm like the aftermarket speakers. You can use a single 4 or 6 channel amp to drive the subs and the parcel shelf speakers and tweaters. You wont have door speakers in the rear or the dash.

Later you can add another 2 or 4 channel amp to drive the front door speakers and mirror housing tweaters.

The only advice I can provide is that if you are hooking up all these amps then run a power line directly from the battery instead if using my OEM solution. The power consumption may be a bit too much for the 4mm gauge wires to handle.

I have a set of Earthquake focals if you want to swap them for the parcel shelf speakers. They are brand new, never opened out of the box.

Richard in NC

I would look into JL Audio subs. I did an amp/sub upgrade to a 3000GT. For a mere $1000 it was the best sounding system I've ever had in a car. I also did the same thing in an E39 but a trunk mounted sub was not ideal. I lost space and couldn't get optimal sound.

It looks like JL Audio has subs that could work in the underseat location in the E60.
I would look at upgrading the amp, or at least cascading off the factory one for the subs. With a base system, there should be room for one in the side of the trunk (or worst case under the rear shelf). Also upgrade the main drivers for a cleaner sound. If you want sharp highs, I hear MB Quartz is the best. I'd also recommend going with a professional installer. Best Buy or Circuit City may have the product and good prices but the best sound comes from a matched system and an expert that knows how to tie into a complex OEM system like the 5er and equalize the whole thing.

I may do speaker upgrades all around even with the L7 in my 550i. It has plenty of volume but is a realitively soft sound.

bruce_miranda

The JL subs are the wrong shape and size as replacements for the under seat subs.

Richard in NC

FYI, if you are willing to give up some trunk space, JL Audio has a stealth box for the E60. It is a specially shaped matched enclosure. I'd be curious how it sounds compared to upgrading the under seat subs. BTW, I just looked at the car and the underseat subs are under a grill under the outside rear of the seats. One would have to remove the seats to get to the space.

Richard in NC

What size are the under seats? The 6W0 are 6.5 diameter and only 3.5 inches deep.