I've purchased Gorilla locks in the past. I also have them on my e46 but have yet to get a set for my e60.

 

Where can buy this spacers. I'm interested. I have looked through the net and I have no luck...Please help...

 

BMW#5,

Some of the images I've seen with larger spacers seem to add a lot of negative camber. Can you please say whether or not this mod has increased the negative camber on the rears?

 

[quote name='UUronL' date='Jul 13 2005, 04:29 PM']
BMW#5,

Some of the images I've seen with larger spacers seem to add a lot of negative camber. Can you please say whether or not this mod has increased the negative camber on the rears?


I was under the impression that adding 15mm spacers should not impact alignment, or that re-alignment would not be required

You've definitely got my attention.
But could you explain "negative camber" in basic terms?
I've never paid much attention to alignement terminology.

 

It's a metalurgic fact that when you clamp different metals together, rust will begin to form. I heard it from the factory tour guide at Dingolfing, where our cars were born. That's why BMW uses a special glue to bond the aluminum sub-frame to steel main frame rather than welding. The 2 metals cannot touch each other or rust will occur.

Perhaps painting the spacer with brake-caliber paint (just the contact side) would be a better maintenance free solution to this rusting problem.

Good luck.

 

The best way to assess camber is by standing at the back of the vehicle. In other words, you need to be standing behind the tire so that you are perpendicular with the tread of the tire.

If you see the top part of the tire/wheel leaning inward, that is referred to as 'negative' camber. If you see the top part of the tire/wheel leaning outward, that is referred to as positive camber.

Think of a sinker on a line (much like what fishermen use) and hold that line at the top allowing the sinker to freely hang at the bottom. Gravity would naturally pull that sinker down and the fishing line would create a straight line up and down.

If you held this fishing line with sinker next to your wheel, you would be able to tell if you had any camber. This is called a plumb line.

Negative camber, if adjusted correctly, is actually a good thing for track racing. It improves the percent of tire patch (area making contact with the asphalt) during cornering. However, it increases wear on the inner part of the tire and what you will have is a tire that is bald on the inside before the outside wears down.

 

The best way to assess camber is by standing at the back of the vehicle. In other words, you need to be standing behind the tire so that you are perpendicular with the tread of the tire.

If you see the top part of the tire/wheel leaning inward, that is referred to as 'negative' camber. If you see the top part of the tire/wheel leaning outward, that is referred to as positive camber.

Think of a sinker on a line (much like what fishermen use) and hold that line at the top allowing the sinker to freely hang at the bottom. Gravity would naturally pull that sinker down and the fishing line would create a straight line up and down.

If you held this fishing line with sinker next to your wheel, you would be able to tell if you had any camber. This is called a plumb line.

Negative camber, if adjusted correctly, is actually a good thing for track racing. It improves the percent of tire patch (area making contact with the asphalt) during cornering. However, it increases wear on the inner part of the tire and what you will have is a tire that is bald on the inside before the outside wears down.
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Ok I know exactly what you are referring to ~ just never knew the difference between +'ve vs. -'ve camber. So thanks for the good explanation.

I made a quick plumb line & this is what I found:

with the car on a level surface:

Front wheels ~
When I rest the plumb line on the top outer edge of the tyre(180 degrees opposite the road contact patch), the base of the plumb line touches the inside of the rim on the opposite side at point x (ie there is some -'ve camber)

Rear wheels:
When I perform the same procedure, the point at which the plumb line makes contact with the rim is approx. 10mm further inside the rim than point x on the front.
ie there is definitely more -'ve camber @ the rear.

However not having done this before adding the spacers I do not know if this is a direct result or not.

Can anyone perform the same test on a car without spacers please??

 

There was negative camber before I'm sure. This is normal and I know I see some on my car. I really hope there isn't an increase though because I love the look with the spacers.

 

If there is, would I be correct in assuming wheel alignment would rectify the problem?

 

If there is, would I be correct in assuming wheel alignment would rectify the problem?
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Unknown. It might require a shim. Again, this isn't necessarily a bad thing. I just don't personally like the look of a lot of negative camber.