Just replaced the amp in the trunk ...
04-13-2007, 11:25 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by westal' post='413260' date='Apr 13 2007, 02:39 PM
I actually bought this amp like 12 years ago, and only used for about 2 so it's just been sittin' around. Really though, if I wouldn't have had that amp, I would've just looked for one that's around 200W or so, has a gain control (important), and has line-level ins and a remote turn on lead (I think you'd be hard pressed to find an amp that didn't have those things).
What's funny is about 2 months ago I tried for a month to sell that MTX for $49 on eBay. Nobody would buy it. And now I'm glad they didn't!
My name is Wes and I am located in Dallas/FW.
What's funny is about 2 months ago I tried for a month to sell that MTX for $49 on eBay. Nobody would buy it. And now I'm glad they didn't!
My name is Wes and I am located in Dallas/FW.
04-13-2007, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JPJ' post='413296' date='Apr 13 2007, 02:25 PM
The thing for me was that I wasn't necessarily looking for the same one you had, but noticed it was the same, then saw it was only a couple miles from my work -- figured it was fate. Also was able to avoid shipping charges and pay cash (so my wife didn't even know I bought it! -- she doesn't really care, but I've spent a lot on the car over the past 2 weeks). Got it for $41, so seems like a pretty good deal.
04-13-2007, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by westal' post='413305' date='Apr 13 2007, 03:38 PM
Once you hear it I bet you'll see it as $41 very well spent.
How many channels is the amp? 4 or 6
would it be possible to have a 4 channel power the door speakers and a 2 channel for the two subs under the seat.
04-13-2007, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 530inNYC' post='413341' date='Apr 13 2007, 04:37 PM
How many channels is the amp? 4 or 6
would it be possible to have a 4 channel power the door speakers and a 2 channel for the two subs under the seat.
would it be possible to have a 4 channel power the door speakers and a 2 channel for the two subs under the seat.
04-23-2007, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by westal' post='412151' date='Apr 10 2007, 02:56 PM
......
^^tinpins - this is just what I call them because I don't know what they're
really called. At radio shack you can buy the molex-looking connectors.
They have a housing and pins, and you will need only the pins to interface
with the original amp harness.
^^tinpins - this is just what I call them because I don't know what they're
really called. At radio shack you can buy the molex-looking connectors.
They have a housing and pins, and you will need only the pins to interface
with the original amp harness.
All I could find are these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family
Are these long enough to poke into the harness? I'm also thinking that the caps on the ends will be too big to put a few of these close to each other.
04-24-2007, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by acribb' post='416886' date='Apr 23 2007, 02:21 PM
Wes, can you elaborate on what these 'tinpins' are? I just got back from RatShack, and couldn't find what you describe, even after looking through all the drawers for 15 min.
All I could find are these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family
Are these long enough to poke into the harness? I'm also thinking that the caps on the ends will be too big to put a few of these close to each other.
All I could find are these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family
Are these long enough to poke into the harness? I'm also thinking that the caps on the ends will be too big to put a few of these close to each other.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family
04-24-2007, 02:47 PM
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When you cut the plugs off a rca cable, there are really 2 wires in each individual channel. 1 wire, the negative, is wrapped around the inner wire, positive.
The negative wire terminates on the outer ring, while the positive wire terminates on the center prong.
I didn't know this, so hopefully it is useful information for somone.
I'm going to make my own rca cables with bare plugs from ratshack.
And for all who have been wondering over the years, here is the real wiring diagram for the sub amp harness for the US hi-fi system (non Logic 7):
remote turn on: white/violet stripe
left line level from head unit: negative(-) black/violet stripe postive(+) black/red stripe
right line level from head unit: negative(-) black/brown stripe postive(+) black/white stripe
left speaker level output from amp: negative(-) red/white stripe postive(+) brown/yellow stripe
right speaker level output from amp: negative(-) red/blue stripe postive(+) brown/white stripe
power: big red wire
ground: big brown wire
The negative wire terminates on the outer ring, while the positive wire terminates on the center prong.
I didn't know this, so hopefully it is useful information for somone.
I'm going to make my own rca cables with bare plugs from ratshack.
And for all who have been wondering over the years, here is the real wiring diagram for the sub amp harness for the US hi-fi system (non Logic 7):
remote turn on: white/violet stripe
left line level from head unit: negative(-) black/violet stripe postive(+) black/red stripe
right line level from head unit: negative(-) black/brown stripe postive(+) black/white stripe
left speaker level output from amp: negative(-) red/white stripe postive(+) brown/yellow stripe
right speaker level output from amp: negative(-) red/blue stripe postive(+) brown/white stripe
power: big red wire
ground: big brown wire
05-30-2007, 04:29 AM
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Thanks to Westal and others for their contributions.
I do have one question regarding the input lines from the head unit into the subwoofer amp. Are these inputs 'line-level' or 'speaker-level'?
It would seem they are 'line-level', since the technique discussed in the this thread involves installing RCA plugs directly onto the end of the stock input wires coming from the head unit. However, since the lines coming from the head unit to the subwoofer amp are +/- pairs, it is possible that these input lines carry an amplified signal.
Has anyone placed a voltage meter on the line to discern whether its level is line or amplified?
I do have one question regarding the input lines from the head unit into the subwoofer amp. Are these inputs 'line-level' or 'speaker-level'?
It would seem they are 'line-level', since the technique discussed in the this thread involves installing RCA plugs directly onto the end of the stock input wires coming from the head unit. However, since the lines coming from the head unit to the subwoofer amp are +/- pairs, it is possible that these input lines carry an amplified signal.
Has anyone placed a voltage meter on the line to discern whether its level is line or amplified?
06-11-2007, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by png1966' post='429836' date='May 30 2007, 08:29 PM
Thanks to Westal and others for their contributions.
I do have one question regarding the input lines from the head unit into the subwoofer amp. Are these inputs 'line-level' or 'speaker-level'?
It would seem they are 'line-level', since the technique discussed in the this thread involves installing RCA plugs directly onto the end of the stock input wires coming from the head unit. However, since the lines coming from the head unit to the subwoofer amp are +/- pairs, it is possible that these input lines carry an amplified signal.
Has anyone placed a voltage meter on the line to discern whether its level is line or amplified?
I do have one question regarding the input lines from the head unit into the subwoofer amp. Are these inputs 'line-level' or 'speaker-level'?
It would seem they are 'line-level', since the technique discussed in the this thread involves installing RCA plugs directly onto the end of the stock input wires coming from the head unit. However, since the lines coming from the head unit to the subwoofer amp are +/- pairs, it is possible that these input lines carry an amplified signal.
Has anyone placed a voltage meter on the line to discern whether its level is line or amplified?
06-11-2007, 06:46 PM
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I tried to bring it in as line-level (through the RCA inputs), but had a bad hum. Then switched to the speaker level inputs and it worked great. I didn't put a meter on it to check the voltage though.
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