I wasn't aware that there are 2 amps...although I don't disagree, I find it hard to believe that the subs have their own amp b/c they are so weak. If I had know this then I would have tried to just replace the amp instead of adding a bass tube. Adding a 2 channel amp shouldn't be too difficult unless the input is fiber optic. Anyone know is the input going to the amp is standard?

 

the input is not fiber optic standard low level input. Also dont try putting a bigger amp the the subs under the seats they sound worse. the small amp they have is a perfect match up. i would keep the subs playing and ad a seperate amp to run a 10 inch sub. If you just want to get a little more kick in the system a ten will do the job just fine. I will post some pics later.

 

The pics would be great. I think Lenk mentioned above that you could tap into the sub wires WITHOUT cutting them by using crimp connectors. I just don't see how you can tap into them without actually cutting them? I think you would just have to splice into them, am I correct? He also didn't mention that the sub wires were on a SEPARATE amp.

 

tap-in connectors work great...and yes, not cutting involved. You can find them at any car stereo shop or on-line

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=531

 

Those look nice and clean. However, you're still physically splicing into the wire, so if you took these off later, there would be bare wire showing, right? At some point you have to make a connection with the wire, and I thought maybe Lenk was talking about somehow stuffing the wire into the harness itself.... I guess you could custom make your own wiring harness if you wanted to, but that would be a LOT of work I suppose.

Oh well - I didn't even know these connectors existed, so good info. Thanks!

 

Splicing means cutting. Crimp-on connectors do puncture the wire(they have to) but it's not like removinb part of the wire cover to make a connection.

Either way, a bit of electrical tape or liquid plastic can cover it w/o a problem.

 

I am getting my car next week wednesday. I already have this lying in my garage for it:

Rockford Fosgate Power 1051S Amp (1119Wx1@4Ohm)
Boston Acoustics Pro 12.5LF 12 inch competition Sub

I am going to fiberglass a sub enclosure to fit on the side of the trunk (1cu ft), and build an amp rack. The amp rack will have a Stinger crossflow fan and an engraved plexi cover with a logo I designed. The plexi will be neon lighted from the side, causing the engraving to glow.

All wiring will be Stinger 4 AWG wiring with a 100A fuse.

I think installation will take around 2 or 3 weeks of my evenings... But I think this thing will POUND !

Here's the logo design that will be engraved in the plexi:

 

I'm a noob in sound system so i hope you guys can help me out here. I had harman kardon subwoofer that was taken from my bro's m3. Do you guys think it can be installed onto my car ? I don't have a LOGIC7 for my car. Pls give me some suggestions. Thanks.

 

For those of you that really like your bass to have a true presence, I have found that the following combination works incredible in my 545i - a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd amp pushing 750 watts into a kicker 12" solobaric L7...It feels tremendously hard hitting and with the remote bass control knob for the amp, you can adjust the degree of bass you want at that moment(from a nice low-key tight bass to a teeth rattling boom). I don't have the split rear seat, yet this sub hits extremely hard. I had the same setup installed in my 540, yet in the 545 it sounds tremendously better.

It was installed thanks to the all the info provided on this board(Lenk )...Here are some pics before the amp was mounted and wires tucked away: