Installed Subwoofer?
#111
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I went for it and installed on sunday! sounds good. got a 15" Kicker solo baric L7 with an alpine mrd1001 amp.
Thanks guys,,, with all the knowledge posted on here - made it simple.
one quick issue. - when the car is started there is interference. low sub burble. not too sure of the cause.
the rca's arent that close to the power lead etc.
advice to others - everything u need is in the trunk. this thread helped alot! - thanks to old posting by lenk and accrib.
battery, remote turn on, and the rca's are very easily tapped into - i shaved of the wire then made connections - no need to cut. didnt like the idea or crimp conectors.
Thanks guys,,, with all the knowledge posted on here - made it simple.
one quick issue. - when the car is started there is interference. low sub burble. not too sure of the cause.
the rca's arent that close to the power lead etc.
advice to others - everything u need is in the trunk. this thread helped alot! - thanks to old posting by lenk and accrib.
battery, remote turn on, and the rca's are very easily tapped into - i shaved of the wire then made connections - no need to cut. didnt like the idea or crimp conectors.
#112
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when the car is started there is interference. low sub burble. not too sure of the cause
The best way is grabbing sub output signals from amp in the trunk and feed it to LOC and to your amp. Don't grab sub line-out level signals which has not been ironed out by the BMW amp.
#113
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I got the Sub speaker signal from the sub amp in the boot- as reccomended on here. - fed into a rca converter(autoleads) and the rca's to the amp. I would have thought that the noise is in relation to some of the wires being too close together, not the speaker signal. only when the car is started and at low speeds - up to 10mph can the burble be heard. I'm not too sure. - any other thoughts??
havent perfected this install as yet - but wanted to check if alls working first.
Edit: I blew the Sub lastnight- 1 hour of hard use! (burning smell in the car.!!!)
Think i'll look at a 12"Type X Alpine now.
havent perfected this install as yet - but wanted to check if alls working first.
Edit: I blew the Sub lastnight- 1 hour of hard use! (burning smell in the car.!!!)
Think i'll look at a 12"Type X Alpine now.
#114
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Sub blown?
You need to check what your sub impedance value is? If you sub wire configuration match with sub impedance.
If you configure your amp driving 2-ohm and your sub is wired as 4-ohm, chances are your sub is over power.
Another one is where did you grab the signal? From rear speaker or from sub output?
You need to check what your sub impedance value is? If you sub wire configuration match with sub impedance.
If you configure your amp driving 2-ohm and your sub is wired as 4-ohm, chances are your sub is over power.
Another one is where did you grab the signal? From rear speaker or from sub output?
#115
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Originally Posted by Guest_Rob' post='17405' date='Jul 16 2004, 04:51 AM
the best subs can move in and out up to two inches.
- for a sub to reproduce powerful bass, it needs to be sealed -
- for a sub to reproduce powerful bass, it needs to be sealed -
you forgot to mention seald and badpass designed boxes.
sealed rely on the air suspension isside the box to control cone motion,
by adding a port (bass reflex, ported) you can open up the low end response, use less power, have less distortion, and increase the output by 3-4db...the rolloff of these can be tuned to -3db @ 30hz, respectively given your box size
what i am saying is that the sealed are FANTASTIC for soundquality, egg rock, and jazz,
while the ported are good for rap and whatnot.....only prob is for the sealed boxes....you need to drive more power to have the same amount of sound output as the ported which yeilds a greater distortion compared to the ported design
bandpass suck, well for spl, go ahead, they are hard to build, and just plain suck. theirtransient esponse (how fast ti can change a beat/hz) is horrible yeilding sloppy bass
i hardly doubt that the "subs" under the forn seats are 10"-unless their depth is really shallow.....
none the less, i suggest tuning a ported box to aroudn 20 hz so you can use the front subs for every thing to around 50 or what ever it is, and then let the 20hz tuned sub come in at 50 (use a pass filter) and let it play to as low as it goes
al you reallly need is a 200watt sub and amp combo, anything more, and its just rap....
-jason
#116
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i hardly doubt that the "subs" under the forn seats are 10"-unless their depth is really shallow.
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#117
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My Ride: Nov 2003 530D SE Auto in Mystic Blue with Grey Dakota Leather, Business Nav. Star Spoke 124 18"s, Blootooth Preperation.
Modifications so far: M5 spoiler, M5 trunk finisher, hometronic rear view mirror, Maple Wood interior trim.
Mods to come: M5 style quad exhaust and M5 rear bumper, Dechroming, black ebay grilles, tints, upgrade to factory amp, by the time I've done these, I'm sure I'll have thought of some more....
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Originally Posted by acribb' post='111525' date='Apr 5 2005, 09:18 PM
Do you know how many Amps are in the standard sound system and were they are located? Is it two? One for the front and rear speakers and one for the Sub? If so, do you know if the pre-amp signal running into the Amps are already crossed over (limited freq) or full range? Thanks.
As for the stock sound system: The MASK (head unit basically) feeds crossed over power to the mids and highs and the cars. The bass frequencies are fed to that little silver box in the trunk on the left hand side and then that amplifies a whopping 40w x 2 to the pathetic subs under the front seats. I was right on about the polarity of the stock wires which I made an educated guess on earlier in this post.
BTW, the post earlier in this thread with pictures showing an ?amp? is really the TCU, not the amp. The only amp back there is the silver box shaped thing. The head unit feeds the mids and highs, the little amp in the back feeds the central bass.
I'm not sure if the head unit outputs only sub frequencies to the amp in the back or if the amp crosses them over before going to the central bass. You'd have to test that yourself. The little black wires in my picture of the wiring harness are the ones coming from the head unit, a left and right pair of black wires.
I?ll try and post pictures of the finished product, once done.
[snapback]111266[/snapback]
I am almost finished installing a JL 250/1 and 12 w3 (sealed box) setup in my lightly optioned 530. I gave it a quick test run and everything sounds GREAT. It?s just the bass punch the car needed. The stock stereo is not bad ? it just needs some low end, which this setup provides without overpowering the stock system. Now I need some input on where to mount the small amp. I?m thinking on the left side somehow, but I don?t want to drill holes in the car. Any ideas?As for the stock sound system: The MASK (head unit basically) feeds crossed over power to the mids and highs and the cars. The bass frequencies are fed to that little silver box in the trunk on the left hand side and then that amplifies a whopping 40w x 2 to the pathetic subs under the front seats. I was right on about the polarity of the stock wires which I made an educated guess on earlier in this post.
BTW, the post earlier in this thread with pictures showing an ?amp? is really the TCU, not the amp. The only amp back there is the silver box shaped thing. The head unit feeds the mids and highs, the little amp in the back feeds the central bass.
I'm not sure if the head unit outputs only sub frequencies to the amp in the back or if the amp crosses them over before going to the central bass. You'd have to test that yourself. The little black wires in my picture of the wiring harness are the ones coming from the head unit, a left and right pair of black wires.
I?ll try and post pictures of the finished product, once done.
#118
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Originally Posted by martymoose' post='42999' date='Oct 9 2004, 01:31 PM
ok, here are some pics of my bass tube and installation
bass tube
Attachment 2512
connection to bass
Attachment 2513
power from battery
Attachment 2514
amp location
Attachment 2515
bass tube
Attachment 2512
connection to bass
Attachment 2513
power from battery
Attachment 2514
amp location
Attachment 2515
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#119
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i dont think the bazooka is strong enough to feel the bass. i have a 300rms subwoofer and it hits sort of hard. with the seats down, it will bump harder, but i dont have the ski opt. depends the music you listen to also. i listen to hip hop so i love the extra bass.
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#120
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Originally Posted by alpinewhite' post='346833' date='Oct 19 2006, 07:19 PM
i dont think the bazooka is strong enough to feel the bass. i have a 300rms subwoofer and it hits sort of hard. with the seats down, it will bump harder, but i dont have the ski opt. depends the music you listen to also. i listen to hip hop so i love the extra bass. ![Smile](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/smile.gif)
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Did you intall the subboofer by yourslef? Do you have some photos to share?
BTW, nice choice of body color
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