kd7iwp

The only diagram I could find with 3 pins is this one, not sure if it's what you currently have or not, perhaps look at wire colors.

sannouni

Wow. Thank you so much!!

sannouni

wired it, the HUD starting dimming according to lighting conditions, which is awesome!!!

I added 2 CAN bus wires (yellow, black, for the K_CAN_SL and K_CAN_SH respectively), and now there is an extra wire from the old 3 pin connector: (namely: BL/GE , which goes to the light module if the circular RLS is installed).

Now I have 2 IHKA faults (Solar sensor, right) 009C65 , and (Solar Sensor, Left) 009C63

do i need to recode the IHKA ? or is the problem with the RLS ?

ISTA + says no faults found for the RLS.

ISTA P says (Replace RLS), but i havent coded the system yet, so it probably thinks that there is no signal (from the BL/GE wire, which is left unused from the old connector)

I will have to wait until i get a hold of an ICOM to code (i only updated the FA using NCSExpert)

any advice is appreciated (is it normal to have IHKA faults after replacing the RLS to a HUD specific?, and how to diagnose the problem correctly)

kd7iwp

I haven't done this retrofit yet (looking for a dashboard, did you get a new dash or cut yours?) so I might not be the best answer. I don't see any reason for ICOM here. If you added HUD to your VO/FA then I would try to code a blank file to your IHKA and potentially light control module (though it doesn't sound like you have codes there). I haven't looked it up, but does the RLS need to be in your VO since it's a new type of module on the CAN bus?

sannouni

Thanks for the reply. I cut my own dash, but I'm not happy with the finished product (the trim piece keeps coming out, it makes it look like a botched job. So ill look for a used HUD dash.
I dont know of there is a specific option number/code that i can add to the FA/VO for the HUD RLS
is ther?

I have tried an (SG_CODIEREN) blank file into the IHKA and LM. Problem is still there...

And you're right, there are no faults on the light module LM

kd7iwp

Just to confirm, those errors were not present in the IHKA previously?

Your solar sensor is in the dashboard under the center speaker, are you sure it's connected? It's B66 in this diagram.


The large gray module along the bottom is your IHKA unit.

kd7iwp

Was it difficult to cut your dash, or to figure out where to cut? Did you get parts from a donor car or buy them all separately?

sannouni

Thank you again, this is very helpful information. I'll double check to see if i connected the solar sensor.. the ISTA+ plan to diagnose the IHKA faults asked me to cover part of the RLS and notice changes in the readings (ISTA+ readings didnt change when i followed the instructions, which then suggested for me to change the RLS)

i bought the kit from a donor car and cut my own dash (i didn't have the reinforcement plates that attach to the dash, which i found out later that if not installed, the trim piece (the one visible on the dash) will not stay seated and will keep popping off... which is an eyesore ....
I needed a Blind Rivet Nut Kit to introduce threads into the car for the HUD to sit. and a few M6x15mm Half Hex Body Flat Head Blind Rivet Nuts (you only need 2, but they sell them in packs of 20)

cutting the dash wasn't too bad, i used a Dremel and a sharp knife/blade, make sure you are in a well ventilated area... warning, there will be a lot of dust... you want to start extra small, and use iterations and fitting over an over until you get it right... but honestly, even though i was extremely careful (maybe not careful enough), and took my time (it took about 3 hours of work just to cut the dash), i still dont like the finished product. the trim piece popping out keeps reminding me that i will have to get a dash.... loool

other than that, all worked out fine... the MOST signal can be tapped from the CIC ... just keep in mind that the source of the MOST signal is the CIC itself, i didnt know that, and i had to revisit the MOST network and correct the fiber optic cables pins to make the system work.

kd7iwp

So do you think the trim keeps popping out because the reinforcement plates aren't there? Any reason why you didn't grab those from the donor vehicle? So you actually had to tap some threads in, or is that what the Blind Rivets provide? Whenever I do this I don't want the car out of commission for too long so anything I can learn beforehand is good. If you have any pictures of your process I would be delighted to see those as well. I haven't heard of anyone doing this retrofit for a while and so much of the data is very old, I really appreciate all you've posted here.

How exactly did you do it for MOST? I recognize that one optic line comes to the CIC and then goes off to the next device. Do either of the lines coming to the CIC reach to the HUD? It seems to me that one of them would have to continue to come in to the CIC, then the CIC output would go to the input on the HUD, then output from HUD would have to connect to the previous output of the CIC. I'm guessing that if one of those pre-existing lines is long enough it can be moved from the CIC to the HUD and then one new line is introduced between CIC and HUD.

Whenever I do this I may reach out for some of your extra rivets

sannouni

i bought the kit without the reinforcement plates, thinking that the plates would be cheap. and one of them was very cheap, the second one was outrageously overprices (more than $200 for a small piece of metal that looks very very similar to it's $10 brother)
if you can get an entire used dash, you will save yourself at least 3 hours of work.
the blind rivets provide the thread (if you copy and paste the following text, you will get the items that i purchased from amazon, "Blind Rivet Nut Kit" , and, "M6x15mm Half Hex Body Flat Head Blind Rivet Nuts" )
i did the work a few weeks ago, i have a video or two, I'll upload to YouTube and paste the links.

for the CIC MOST signal. here's what worked. i first checked where the signal is originated from, so i unplugged the most from the CIC and i turned on the ignition, to see where the light was originating from (in the Back of the CIC), i noted the originating port. Using an extra MOST cable that i bought from amazon (i actually bought 2 extra cables just in case, and i'm happy i did, because one cable got kinked), i connected the CIC originating light to the input of the HUD (arrows can be seen on the side of the hood MOST connector), then the output of the HUD went to the car MOST (the MOST cable that was originally connected to the CIC, namely, the port that was connected to the CIC originating light).
then connected the car output MOST to the CIC Input (if you followed the above paragraph, then there should be only one remaining port in the back of the CIC)