Difference between the sound systems offered
#11
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Originally Posted by Dr Dave' post='796792' date='Feb 19 2009, 05:29 PM
this car has not been tinkered with bruce?
i also have those speakers near the mirrors?
so do i have logic 7? i didnt think i had
here are pics of the 2 door speakers im on about
i also have those speakers near the mirrors?
so do i have logic 7? i didnt think i had
here are pics of the 2 door speakers im on about
The best thing to do is open your Left wheel arc trim and look for the size of the amp. If its huge like my picture you have L7 but if you see a small one then its Hi-Fi, if you can't find one you have the Std EU version.
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Model Year: 2006
Picture of the Hi-Fi amp http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=...st&p=647490
Picture of L7 amp http://forums.e60.net/index.php?act=attach...st&id=61849
Picture of L7 amp http://forums.e60.net/index.php?act=attach...st&id=61849
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Originally Posted by IceyTys' post='796695' date='Feb 19 2009, 03:48 PM
That is interesting information, THANK YOU.
I would be curious to know though if the frequency ranges stated above for each type of system is the frequency that is produced coming from the head unit, or just what the total speaker range by the speakers that can be reproduced??? I.E. is it limited by the head unit or the speakers?
If that is the figure coming from the head unit, that would mean if you have the standard HiFi or lower you could never really add any low end bass to your car (below 40Hz) unless you change the head unit. And if you have the standard EU system (>50Hz) you're really screwed even if you upgrade the speakers and amp if the head unit is the deciding factor
Think about it....if you by a 10-12" subwoofer how are you gonna get a low bass response if you never had a frequency below 40hz going from your line tap??
I would be curious to know though if the frequency ranges stated above for each type of system is the frequency that is produced coming from the head unit, or just what the total speaker range by the speakers that can be reproduced??? I.E. is it limited by the head unit or the speakers?
If that is the figure coming from the head unit, that would mean if you have the standard HiFi or lower you could never really add any low end bass to your car (below 40Hz) unless you change the head unit. And if you have the standard EU system (>50Hz) you're really screwed even if you upgrade the speakers and amp if the head unit is the deciding factor
Think about it....if you by a 10-12" subwoofer how are you gonna get a low bass response if you never had a frequency below 40hz going from your line tap??
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='796790' date='Feb 19 2009, 10:28 AM
Once again you are the master... I think this 1st diagram answers my question with regards to the Ohms, as it seems the speakers (and not the HU) are the determining factor on the lower frequency response. 30Hz over 40Hz
I was hoping to expand on your "aftermarket sub woofers and amp DYI" and get your thoughts. Since I am replacing my rear deck speakers with higher power components I am a bit worried that the 25 watts from the HU will not be enough to really notice much difference or drive the new speakers, since the new components I am installing are RMS at 120w and peak at 160w.
I was thinking I can tap the rear deck speaker outputs (from the HU) into the factory HiFi amp as inputs then run new wires to the rear deck speakers from the factory HiFi. Do you think that would work? Id be a shame to let the old amp go to waste and the new deck speakers not be used more efficiently. I realize I may have more power to the rear with this idea, but I am sure during tuning I can just adjust some fader to the front to create a balance if the factory amp doesnt have any gain knob.
Your thoughts?
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Originally Posted by IceyTys' post='797532' date='Feb 20 2009, 01:30 PM
I was thinking I can tap the rear deck speaker outputs (from the HU) into the factory HiFi amp as inputs then run new wires to the rear deck speakers from the factory HiFi. Do you think that would work? Id be a shame to let the old amp go to waste and the new deck speakers not be used more efficiently. I realize I may have more power to the rear with this idea, but I am sure during tuning I can just adjust some fader to the front to create a balance if the factory amp doesnt have any gain knob.
I actually bought the L7 mids to put into my car but decided against it because I didn't want 40w speakers being driven by a 25W HU, contrary to what most people think you need to drive the speakers well for them to sound good or else you risk putting too much stress on the HU trying to drive a harder speaker.
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='797545' date='Feb 20 2009, 07:14 AM
If the Hi-Fi amp was simply an amp then I cannot see why not provided you use Speaker to Line convertors. However if its done some fancy filtering and crossovers then you'll loose some stuff because the amp was not designed to amplify a non LOW signal. Also I don't know if there is any compromise in the design of the amp because it was meant to only amplify the non directional low freqs. But its worth a try and reporting.
I actually bought the L7 mids to put into my car but decided against it because I didn't want 40w speakers being driven by a 25W HUcontrary to what most people think you need to drive the speakers well for them to sound good or else you risk putting too much stress on the HU trying to drive a harder speaker.
I actually bought the L7 mids to put into my car but decided against it because I didn't want 40w speakers being driven by a 25W HUcontrary to what most people think you need to drive the speakers well for them to sound good or else you risk putting too much stress on the HU trying to drive a harder speaker.
I will test the theory with the CD you pointed me too and let you know how it goes.
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