Adding an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofers - plug and play
#91
the information on this topic is very usefoul for me, but I have one big problem.
i can't find the amp from my car. here is a picture.
i have the woofers instaled under the seats and i want to change them and adding a new amp.
please help me with this.
i can't find the amp from my car. here is a picture.
i have the woofers instaled under the seats and i want to change them and adding a new amp.
please help me with this.
#92
Thread Starter
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
You have the std EU set-up so this article is not for you.
#94
hi guys
i have read this through and through, its a brillant thread.
how can i check WHITH OUT RIPPING OF THE TRIM/CARPET FROM THE BOOT if i have the standard system or the one with the amp in the back.
i will be doing the thing with earthquake speakers under the seats. does the stock amp only drive the stock 8" subs or does it drive the the mid and tweeters too.
the piont being is if say i replace the stock subs with aftermarket ones and then change the amp to a after market one will the mids and tweeters still work, i take it they get their source from the head unit.
i have read this through and through, its a brillant thread.
how can i check WHITH OUT RIPPING OF THE TRIM/CARPET FROM THE BOOT if i have the standard system or the one with the amp in the back.
i will be doing the thing with earthquake speakers under the seats. does the stock amp only drive the stock 8" subs or does it drive the the mid and tweeters too.
the piont being is if say i replace the stock subs with aftermarket ones and then change the amp to a after market one will the mids and tweeters still work, i take it they get their source from the head unit.
#95
Originally Posted by parmblagan' post='666915' date='Sep 11 2008, 02:46 PM
hi guys
i have read this through and through, its a brillant thread.
how can i check WHITH OUT RIPPING OF THE TRIM/CARPET FROM THE BOOT if i have the standard system or the one with the amp in the back.
i will be doing the thing with earthquake speakers under the seats. does the stock amp only drive the stock 8" subs or does it drive the the mid and tweeters too.
the piont being is if say i replace the stock subs with aftermarket ones and then change the amp to a after market one will the mids and tweeters still work, i take it they get their source from the head unit.
i have read this through and through, its a brillant thread.
how can i check WHITH OUT RIPPING OF THE TRIM/CARPET FROM THE BOOT if i have the standard system or the one with the amp in the back.
i will be doing the thing with earthquake speakers under the seats. does the stock amp only drive the stock 8" subs or does it drive the the mid and tweeters too.
the piont being is if say i replace the stock subs with aftermarket ones and then change the amp to a after market one will the mids and tweeters still work, i take it they get their source from the head unit.
also guys i take if my system is a logic 7 then i will have the amp in the boot,
but if my system is not a logic 7 then why do i have the speakers under the seats?
very confused
#97
Originally Posted by nola530' post='691239' date='Oct 12 2008, 07:00 PM
bruce, thanks for the info very helpfull.
Does any one in the US know where to get
the Tyco 2.5mm pins (RS Stock no. 395-7381)?
Don?t say at RS!
I?ve added the SWS-8?s, a Fosgate Punch P300-1,
and Polyester Fiber Stuffing (makes your sub think
it?s in a larger box). Set the Gain and Output, but
left the X-over off. The headunit controls the
X-over points. Man, I?m impressed (keep in mind that 8?? is
not a 12?), but I bet it?s just as good as trying to hear a bigger
sub through the backseat.
I used some temp connector pins while my BMW connector
is on back order, and it gives me a chance to hunt down
some pins. Anyone?
#98
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Originally Posted by jrandol1' post='716020' date='Nov 9 2008, 12:59 AM
Yes, thanks Bruce!!
Does any one in the US know where to get
the Tyco 2.5mm pins (RS Stock no. 395-7381)?
Don?t say at RS!
Does any one in the US know where to get
the Tyco 2.5mm pins (RS Stock no. 395-7381)?
Don?t say at RS!
Depending on the wire thickness you need the following
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=61&fg=15
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 0,5-1,5MM - 61131376191
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 1,0-2,5MM - 61131376193
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 2,5-4,0MM - 61131376195
#99
Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='716316' date='Nov 9 2008, 07:31 AM
You can use the BMW OEM parts for this too.
Depending on the wire thickness you need the following
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=61&fg=15
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 0,5-1,5MM - 61131376191
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 1,0-2,5MM - 61131376193
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 2,5-4,0MM - 61131376195
Depending on the wire thickness you need the following
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=61&fg=15
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 0,5-1,5MM - 61131376191
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 1,0-2,5MM - 61131376193
11 CIRCULAR CONTACT 2.5 2,5-4,0MM - 61131376195
Bruce,
Can't thank you enough for your post here. Fantastic info.
I'm going to move forward on adding the SWS-8's to my US 2008 535i with non-L7 audio but needed a few clarifications. I found the package including amp on E-Bay and will be using this setup. First of all, your description is very clear on how to build the 20-pin connector. My first question is that you said there are now available connectors for the subs and you listed 61136901731 x2 connectors and 61138364835 x4 contacts. These are to connect the speaker wire to the subs correct? If so, why only 2 connectors versus 4 contacts and are these pretty easy to install?
Which gauge of speaker wire, power supply, ground and fuse do you recommend?
Regarding the circular contacts listed above, do you have a recommendation on where to purchase the various diameters of wire and how long? Not sure if realoem.com has this wire for sale or if it's a dealer only proposition.
Just trying to build a complete parts list I guess.
I also wanted your thoughts on upgrading the tweeters to L7 tweeters. I read a thread on Tyresmoke where they thought that was a good upgrade as well.
Once again, many thanks for the info.
#100
Thread Starter
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
You have to remember that I did not rewire my car for the amp or the speakers and so used all the original wires. Check my first thread for the gauges of all the wires. I did buy BMW wires from the dealers and you can find that on realoem.com too. See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=61&fg=10
The 2 plugs and 4 contacts are used to connect the Earthquake speakers to the wiring harness that is already present underneath the seats. With the OEM speakers the plugs go straight into the speakers but with the Earthquakes you need a mate for that to make the solution plug and play. You still need the spade connectors on the speaker side.
I've not upgraded the tweater themselves because I felt that was fine. But if you say you've heard good things about the L7 tweaters then go for it and update this thread for all the know.
The 2 plugs and 4 contacts are used to connect the Earthquake speakers to the wiring harness that is already present underneath the seats. With the OEM speakers the plugs go straight into the speakers but with the Earthquakes you need a mate for that to make the solution plug and play. You still need the spade connectors on the speaker side.
I've not upgraded the tweater themselves because I felt that was fine. But if you say you've heard good things about the L7 tweaters then go for it and update this thread for all the know.