What are the signs that its time for NEW BATTERY?
01-18-2011, 05:46 PM
#42
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Location: Saint Louis, Missouri, USA
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My Ride: 2010 535i M Sport 6MT
Model Year: 2010
Our E60 and E60N (LCI) are equipped with an IBS. My battery was replaced under warranty with a 110AH 850A Exide battery (non-AGM). It is no longer available through BMW. If this was a paid service, battery price was $185 and requires one hour of installation and programming, with a two-year warranty, unlimited miles.
From RealOEM:
"The original battery (battery size and type) as indicated in the vehicle's order specifications must always be installed to ensure correct operation of the on-board electrical system!
If the vehicle is equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor), the battery must be registered via the diagnostic system (ISTA); this process also registers the battery with the vehicle's on-board electrical system.
A more powerful battery may be installed during retrofitting operations. Standard batteries can always be replaced by AGM batteries with the same specifications. Following either type of replacement, the vehicle registration process in ISTA/P must be supplemented by a vehicle coding procedure, which is carried out as follows:
Read out battery size and registration from onboard electrical system: ISTA->Service functions->Body->Voltage supply->Register_battery replacement->Test plan"
2008 535i
RealOEM: E60N 535i Original BMW battery (Warranty only)
From RealOEM:
"The original battery (battery size and type) as indicated in the vehicle's order specifications must always be installed to ensure correct operation of the on-board electrical system!
If the vehicle is equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor), the battery must be registered via the diagnostic system (ISTA); this process also registers the battery with the vehicle's on-board electrical system.
A more powerful battery may be installed during retrofitting operations. Standard batteries can always be replaced by AGM batteries with the same specifications. Following either type of replacement, the vehicle registration process in ISTA/P must be supplemented by a vehicle coding procedure, which is carried out as follows:
Read out battery size and registration from onboard electrical system: ISTA->Service functions->Body->Voltage supply->Register_battery replacement->Test plan"
2008 535i
RealOEM: E60N 535i Original BMW battery (Warranty only)
02-11-2011, 07:30 AM
#43
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Guys,
Keeping a 2008 70k$+ car on an auxillary power source just not to lose the clock settings, but risking a short circuit?!? Because all other things (car memory, radio settings and so on) are not lost during power losses of a couple of hours. You get the wildest ideas and DIYs how to overcome this really minor effort of setting the clock again, but forget the most important thing?
What is extremely important is to REGISTER the battery change with the car using appropriate software. As someone already said the E60s are equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which monitors the voltage and current in the life of a battery. Even the environment temperature in which the car was operated is used in calculating the battery status and how it will be charged, that is why the car needs to know what type of battery is installed (70, 80, 90 or 110 Ah, standard or AGM type).
Our cars are a sophisticad piece of engineering, not 1950's John Deeres. It stores a lot of parameters (i.e. how many times each turning indicator was engaged, when the last battery change has occured, how many times the brake pedal has been pressed and dozens of other parameters you would wonder why they are important). When you register a battery change it resets relevant values and adjusts them for a new battery. Ommiting to do so will lead you to buying a new battery earlier than necessary as the car will keep charging the new battery with cycles and at current rates appropriate for your old fainted battery which will most likely downgrade capacity.
So remember: changing batteries in an E60 is not just plug & play. The battery will work, but it will surely last shorter. Go to the dealer to let it registered or find someone with the right SW (INPA, ISTA, however it is called) to do it properly.
Cheers,
Straba
Keeping a 2008 70k$+ car on an auxillary power source just not to lose the clock settings, but risking a short circuit?!? Because all other things (car memory, radio settings and so on) are not lost during power losses of a couple of hours. You get the wildest ideas and DIYs how to overcome this really minor effort of setting the clock again, but forget the most important thing?
What is extremely important is to REGISTER the battery change with the car using appropriate software. As someone already said the E60s are equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which monitors the voltage and current in the life of a battery. Even the environment temperature in which the car was operated is used in calculating the battery status and how it will be charged, that is why the car needs to know what type of battery is installed (70, 80, 90 or 110 Ah, standard or AGM type).
Our cars are a sophisticad piece of engineering, not 1950's John Deeres. It stores a lot of parameters (i.e. how many times each turning indicator was engaged, when the last battery change has occured, how many times the brake pedal has been pressed and dozens of other parameters you would wonder why they are important). When you register a battery change it resets relevant values and adjusts them for a new battery. Ommiting to do so will lead you to buying a new battery earlier than necessary as the car will keep charging the new battery with cycles and at current rates appropriate for your old fainted battery which will most likely downgrade capacity.
So remember: changing batteries in an E60 is not just plug & play. The battery will work, but it will surely last shorter. Go to the dealer to let it registered or find someone with the right SW (INPA, ISTA, however it is called) to do it properly.
Cheers,
Straba
02-11-2011, 07:34 PM
#44
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate NY
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My Ride: 2012 528xi
Model Year: 2012
Guys,
Keeping a 2008 70k$+ car on an auxillary power source just not to lose the clock settings, but risking a short circuit?!? Because all other things (car memory, radio settings and so on) are not lost during power losses of a couple of hours. You get the wildest ideas and DIYs how to overcome this really minor effort of setting the clock again, but forget the most important thing?
What is extremely important is to REGISTER the battery change with the car using appropriate software. As someone already said the E60s are equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which monitors the voltage and current in the life of a battery. Even the environment temperature in which the car was operated is used in calculating the battery status and how it will be charged, that is why the car needs to know what type of battery is installed (70, 80, 90 or 110 Ah, standard or AGM type).
Our cars are a sophisticad piece of engineering, not 1950's John Deeres. It stores a lot of parameters (i.e. how many times each turning indicator was engaged, when the last battery change has occured, how many times the brake pedal has been pressed and dozens of other parameters you would wonder why they are important). When you register a battery change it resets relevant values and adjusts them for a new battery. Ommiting to do so will lead you to buying a new battery earlier than necessary as the car will keep charging the new battery with cycles and at current rates appropriate for your old fainted battery which will most likely downgrade capacity.
So remember: changing batteries in an E60 is not just plug & play. The battery will work, but it will surely last shorter. Go to the dealer to let it registered or find someone with the right SW (INPA, ISTA, however it is called) to do it properly.
Cheers,
Straba
Keeping a 2008 70k$+ car on an auxillary power source just not to lose the clock settings, but risking a short circuit?!? Because all other things (car memory, radio settings and so on) are not lost during power losses of a couple of hours. You get the wildest ideas and DIYs how to overcome this really minor effort of setting the clock again, but forget the most important thing?
What is extremely important is to REGISTER the battery change with the car using appropriate software. As someone already said the E60s are equipped with an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which monitors the voltage and current in the life of a battery. Even the environment temperature in which the car was operated is used in calculating the battery status and how it will be charged, that is why the car needs to know what type of battery is installed (70, 80, 90 or 110 Ah, standard or AGM type).
Our cars are a sophisticad piece of engineering, not 1950's John Deeres. It stores a lot of parameters (i.e. how many times each turning indicator was engaged, when the last battery change has occured, how many times the brake pedal has been pressed and dozens of other parameters you would wonder why they are important). When you register a battery change it resets relevant values and adjusts them for a new battery. Ommiting to do so will lead you to buying a new battery earlier than necessary as the car will keep charging the new battery with cycles and at current rates appropriate for your old fainted battery which will most likely downgrade capacity.
So remember: changing batteries in an E60 is not just plug & play. The battery will work, but it will surely last shorter. Go to the dealer to let it registered or find someone with the right SW (INPA, ISTA, however it is called) to do it properly.
Cheers,
Straba
02-12-2011, 07:01 AM
#45
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Well Crud! All this talk about batteries has come back to visit me again. I have noticed that my wife's 2008 E60 335i has been cranking kind of sluggish in the mornings. I was kind of suspecting the battery but it was very cold and after starting it on the cold mornings it started fine the rest of the day. Went out is afternoon and hit the starter. It cranked slowly a few times and then stopped turning and all the dash lights went out. I put my jumper box on it and it still didn't do anything but click. I left the jumper box on it for a few minutes and tried starting it again and it fired right up.
I have been noticing that the clock would not keep it's setting for a couple of weeks. I bought a battery from Advance Auto Parts. My cost on it was about $112 and some change, but it is their top of the line battery. It is about 1/2" wider and about an inch shorter than the old one but the counter guy confirmed it three times that this is the right battery. Somewhere around 850-900 amps.
One trick to changing the battery on these cars is to keep a 12 volt source hooked in the system to keep the car from losing its memory. If it loses its memory it will have to be reprogrammed for sure. There is a red plastic cover under the hood that covers a terminal for jumping the car if necessary. What I plan to do is take my jumper box and hook the negative to a metal ground somewhere on the engine and the positive to the terminal underneath the red cover. This will maintain 12 volts to the system to keep the vehicle from losing its memory. Memory being all your personal settings for the radio, clock, seats, vent settings, body control module and PCM. The car can also forget how to idle. These are just a few things that can happen.
Warning! By doing this you will have to be very careful to not let the positive cable terminal touch anything when changing out the battery because it will still be hot. You can take and wrap it with a non conductor type of material until ready to hook it back up. This will save you from having to take it to a dealership to have everything reprogrammed. Be forewarned. This battery can give you a hernia. It is very heavy trying to lift it out of the battery box/trunk area.
Ed
I have been noticing that the clock would not keep it's setting for a couple of weeks. I bought a battery from Advance Auto Parts. My cost on it was about $112 and some change, but it is their top of the line battery. It is about 1/2" wider and about an inch shorter than the old one but the counter guy confirmed it three times that this is the right battery. Somewhere around 850-900 amps.
One trick to changing the battery on these cars is to keep a 12 volt source hooked in the system to keep the car from losing its memory. If it loses its memory it will have to be reprogrammed for sure. There is a red plastic cover under the hood that covers a terminal for jumping the car if necessary. What I plan to do is take my jumper box and hook the negative to a metal ground somewhere on the engine and the positive to the terminal underneath the red cover. This will maintain 12 volts to the system to keep the vehicle from losing its memory. Memory being all your personal settings for the radio, clock, seats, vent settings, body control module and PCM. The car can also forget how to idle. These are just a few things that can happen.
Warning! By doing this you will have to be very careful to not let the positive cable terminal touch anything when changing out the battery because it will still be hot. You can take and wrap it with a non conductor type of material until ready to hook it back up. This will save you from having to take it to a dealership to have everything reprogrammed. Be forewarned. This battery can give you a hernia. It is very heavy trying to lift it out of the battery box/trunk area.
Ed
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