No i-drive, no PDC, no "car" audio
#1
No i-drive, no PDC, no "car" audio
Hi,
I have a BMW 520i 2003 reg non m sport.
I got my car back from the garage who advised my battery was flat as they had it over 3 weeks.
They jump started it with a battery pack and another car.
Since this, the following doesn't work:
i-Drive (Dynavin unit)
Parking sensors - no noise
Seat belts - no noise
Steering wheel controls
No BMW Prongs - opening door, low fuel, not wearing seat belt, etc
Heating, the PDC Button, DST Button, cruise control and also the CD Player audio does work so I get radio/CD only.The instrument cluster is fine also.
I've checked my boot which says fuse 64 is for i-drive and this fuse is fine - checking random other fuses show that their not blown either.
There's no going back with the garage as their useless and struggling as it is to get customers and it was my mistake for trying them. When I first got saw my car, was saying 9999999km but not actually starting until they jump started with a car from the front in front of me. However whilst the battery was low the idrive was flashing. Only after the car was jump started it never came back on
Had the battery disconnected for 2 hours hoping this would clear any error codes but no luck, the battery itself is fine not showing any signs of struggle or struggling to start.
I have a BMW 520i 2003 reg non m sport.
I got my car back from the garage who advised my battery was flat as they had it over 3 weeks.
They jump started it with a battery pack and another car.
Since this, the following doesn't work:
i-Drive (Dynavin unit)
Parking sensors - no noise
Seat belts - no noise
Steering wheel controls
No BMW Prongs - opening door, low fuel, not wearing seat belt, etc
Heating, the PDC Button, DST Button, cruise control and also the CD Player audio does work so I get radio/CD only.The instrument cluster is fine also.
I've checked my boot which says fuse 64 is for i-drive and this fuse is fine - checking random other fuses show that their not blown either.
There's no going back with the garage as their useless and struggling as it is to get customers and it was my mistake for trying them. When I first got saw my car, was saying 9999999km but not actually starting until they jump started with a car from the front in front of me. However whilst the battery was low the idrive was flashing. Only after the car was jump started it never came back on
Had the battery disconnected for 2 hours hoping this would clear any error codes but no luck, the battery itself is fine not showing any signs of struggle or struggling to start.
Last edited by shoryuken15; 03-30-2015 at 05:49 AM.
#6
I've checked the MPM Module - it's quite dirty and dusty but no water.
I've disconnected it and reconnected the MPM Module but still no screen/Parking Sensors.
The screen itself is a Dynavin system (DVN-E60)
I've disconnected it and reconnected the MPM Module but still no screen/Parking Sensors.
The screen itself is a Dynavin system (DVN-E60)
#7
Check my thread on this same issue, it sounds like you're having the same Catastrophic iDrive failure I have:
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...lained-141614/
It's likely time to replace the CCC unit.
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...lained-141614/
It's likely time to replace the CCC unit.
#8
Thank you for your response.
I've never had a battery drain issue ever and the battery still running strong. It was only jump started that one time and has been in continuous use.
The odd thing is that my CD/DVD still works - it will take CD and play the audio off CD or off the radio. The left / right / power+volume knob and eject work but the steering wheel doesn't.
I've never had a battery drain issue ever and the battery still running strong. It was only jump started that one time and has been in continuous use.
The odd thing is that my CD/DVD still works - it will take CD and play the audio off CD or off the radio. The left / right / power+volume knob and eject work but the steering wheel doesn't.
#9
I suppose you could be having a partial CCC failure.
If you're in the vicinity of a BMW dealer, I suggest having them diagnose it ($100 USD, typically, but I've found you can often "negotiate" things down at the dealer... if you look, act, and sound professional... sometimes).
Once you know the root cause, you can then act accordingly.
If you're in the vicinity of a BMW dealer, I suggest having them diagnose it ($100 USD, typically, but I've found you can often "negotiate" things down at the dealer... if you look, act, and sound professional... sometimes).
Once you know the root cause, you can then act accordingly.
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