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V8 coolant pipe

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Old 02-23-2013, 07:25 AM
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Default V8 coolant pipe

This is question for those who have replaced the n62 coolant pipe? I decided to do complete coolant system refresh as well as valve and upper timing cover gaskets all the same time. I am preparing myself through reading informations and procedures involving to perform these works correctly though not always find answers to my questions, that's why I am asking you guys and hope with your help I can do it. I am wondering about that different design collapsible pipe. Most expensive I found is Allgermanauto pipe almost $700 and cheapest URO for $220 and bimmerpipe somewhere middle. Which one I have to get? And why? Also what is the procedure to replace the OEM pipe? Does the cylinder head come off or just the lower timing cover needs to be removed? If I remove the lower timing cover do I have to replace the oil pan gasket also as they are connected together. It seams that if I replace that pipe with OEM I gonna save $600 which seams worth of time and I also gonna have new lower case and oil pan gaskets.
Old 02-23-2013, 08:14 AM
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As far as I know you have to remove the engine to replace the OEM coolant pipe. It slides in through the front and there is no room to do so with the engine in the car.
Old 02-23-2013, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 545iMike
As far as I know you have to remove the engine to replace the OEM coolant pipe. It slides in through the front and there is no room to do so with the engine in the car.
This is correct if you are replacing with another OEM unit. However, the collapsable pipe solutions the OP is refering to simply requires removal of the intake and valley pan. You then carefully slice the OEM pipe in half, being extra careful to mitigate particles and such. The OEM pipe is carefully removed, the old seals are extracated, and the area prepped. The seals for the collapsable pipe are set in place, the pipe expanded and tightened to fit. Relatively straightforward and much easier than an engine pull.
Old 02-23-2013, 11:08 AM
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So even though the OEM route is cheaper, its far more labor intensive. As for pipe selection, all designs look pretty good. The all german auto looks the best. The bimmer pipe, I'm not a huge fan of the stainless sleeve you have to roll up and insert into the front of the block. As for the URO, its a simple design but so many seals. Seems like a lot of different places a leak can occur. But I guess if 1 seal goes you have to replace them all anyway.
Keep us posted on which pipe you choose and the install. I'm sure I'll have to do this to my 545 some time in the future.
Old 02-23-2013, 12:11 PM
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Margal,

There is an excellent DIY pdf over at b-fest:

DIY: Coolant Leak Repair ( Cap w Seal and Expanding Coolant Pipe) w Pics - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

It's for a 645, but the OP has done it on several 545s too and said it's an identical procedure. GL
Old 02-24-2013, 03:48 AM
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Thanks guys I see that installing the OEM pipe requires removing the engine that am not capable to perform yet. But anyway why is engine removing needed? has the OEM pipe pushed from back side of engine or from front. Does someone done it here or somewhere else to have visual information how to install the OEM pipe? if I go with the collapsible pipe route than AGA pipe will be my choice as it really seams more durable and easy to install.
Old 02-24-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Margal
Thanks guys I see that installing the OEM pipe requires removing the engine that am not capable to perform yet. But anyway why is engine removing needed? has the OEM pipe pushed from back side of engine or from front. Does someone done it here or somewhere else to have visual information how to install the OEM pipe? if I go with the collapsible pipe route than AGA pipe will be my choice as it really seams more durable and easy to install.
The OE pipe is installed and removed from the front of the engine. The problem is the pipe must be withdrawn straight and is long enough that it will not clear the front bumper. If it were as easy as removing the fan and radiator and then passing the pipe through the bumper cover it would have long ago been posted here or on other forums.

The shame is that for such a tough part to get at that they didn't design a better seal.

This problem is not isolated to BMW, but is sort of a "German" thing. BMWs, Porsches and Audis are known for bad maintenance procedure design.

Check out this Audi procedure where the front bumper must be removed to change out a timing belt. AudiWorld Tech Articles
Old 02-27-2013, 03:09 AM
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As I see from this post DIY - Coolant pipe tools & procedure - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums the pipe can be installed without removing engine and cylinder head
Just removing bumper cover and radiator as well as lower timing case cover. The only thing I am concerned now is how difficult it gonna be to remove the crankshaft hub and install the new seal without messing the timing. And when is the camshaft adjustment needed? I see there are special tools for adjusting the camshaft and some instructions but I am simply not comfortable to do it.
Old 02-27-2013, 05:04 AM
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I will need to change the pipe in my N62 very soon, it is leaking now. I have done the research and I see no reason that the URO pipe will not work as designed and is much cheaper. Will it last as long as the AGA pipe? Maybe not, but I am willing to find out how long. I simply see no reason to go to the extra trouble of installing the OE pipe. I also need to replace the valve seals on my engine.
Old 02-27-2013, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidF
I will need to change the pipe in my N62 very soon, it is leaking now. I have done the research and I see no reason that the URO pipe will not work as designed and is much cheaper. Will it last as long as the AGA pipe? Maybe not, but I am willing to find out how long. I simply see no reason to go to the extra trouble of installing the OE pipe. I also need to replace the valve seals on my engine.
URO pipe has extra sealings and there in no threads to tighten it. The design does not look quite relable to me as compared to AGA pipe. The reason I want to go with OEM pipe exept the cost is that I will have chance to replace lower timing case, crankshaft and upper oil pan gaskets. Or are these gaskets less prone to leakage than upper timing and valve cover ones?
Do you mean valve cover gaskets or valve stem seals?


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