e60rider

Hey, planing to DYI the mechatronic sleeve replacement for my 528xi. I wanted to get some tips, if any of you tried replacing the sleeve. My car currently jolts forward from a stop when i accelerate(sometimes when cold), and i heard its due to low trans oil (also heard the mechatronic unit is junk now if transmission gets problems). so my car has 102,300miles on it, and i am deciding to use old trans oil and top up with new oil as needed while replacing sleeve.

my question is will topping up and replacing sleeve fix my jolt issue or is programing needed to remove faults if any? also is using the old oil better or new bmw transmission oil, i have 102,300miles on it and never done trans service. (any tips while i am down there would be appreciated)

ETNav382

I believe there is a pretty detailed (except the missing pics) Diy in that section of the forum. Also if you want new fluid go to thectsc.com and get a kit from them. Some have claimed replacing the solenoids fixed many issues other have said if you haven't changed the oil by now to leave it. I changed mine for the first time at 100k miles and just need to do the tranny adapations reset via software and I should be good to go.

e60rider

Thanks for the quick reply. i did see many instruction, i am pretty sure i can tackle this job. sorry, but you changed the oil or solenoids? also, would anyone know how to get a e60 on 4 jackstands, so the car is fully lifted? i am not aware of the jacking points, aside from the ones provided by BMW

turboawd

the sleeve just fixes the leak. it has nothing to do with the way the trans shifts.
the sleeve is kinda a bitch. its in a tight spot. you'll need some long tools and some imagination to replace it.
i'd change the fluid. it should help.

ETNav382

I changed just the oil. I still have a jerky shift from 2nd to 3rd which could possibly just be old tranny software but I'm on a preventative maintenance spree and have planned on changing them and getting software updated.

Concerning lifting the car, I used the auto repair shop on base, they had a drive on lift and that made the job a lot easier since I had the car raised to a height that's comfortable to me. I would strongly see if there is a diy kinda auto shop where you can rent a stall and lift. The hob is much easier when you have actual clearance.

svre46

It it were me I would pony up the few hundred do new fluids, solenoids, and then the sleeve. You are already going to be in there anyways why use old stuff with 100k on it? Solenoids are not too expensive either and you would have a nice new valve body basically. Mine was just done a little over a year ago by the prior owner and drives like new. There were never any issues but done as preventative maintenance. I have put on 10k miles and now have 115k on the car.

There are fluid/seal kits as well online if you search.

Useful information below

https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yo...on-leak-96033/

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...09#post7162709

E60I

Getting stranded and have your car stuck in a shop you don't know can easily cost you a lot more than the preventive maintenance.

If you are going to buy transmission fluid, buy it from this guy: https://5series.net/forums/private-m...-fluid-129883/

I bought 13 bottles from him ( I am planning to do two flushes). His shipment and price was great!

Good luck!

BimmerFan52

Regarding getting the car on four jack stands:

To lift the front end, centered on the car just in front of the the oil sump is a plastic pad (about 5" X 2") designed to be a jack point. It is exposed through a rectangular hole in the belly pan. After lifting the car via this pad set two jack stands at the normal front positions. You will either need a low-profile jack or alternately you can first drive up onto a couple of boards to give you 1-1/2 to 3" of lift first, which will allow a large jack to get under the bottom of the front bumper cover.

To lift the rear end I use the rear differential. There are cooling fins built into the cover of the differential, and in order to protect them I first set a 6" long piece of 2 X 4 on the floor jack pad to distribute the weight across the fins and solid part of the differential cover. After raising the rear end set the jack stands at the normal rear jack points on each side.

e60rider

thanks for the help everyone, i am about to order my parts soon. If this helps the car also has a clunk when i start it up, immediately after pushing the button. but i did see alot of information about transmission software update to fix that issue. Wondering if anyone has images of how to remove the sleeve. thanks for all the help again !

noberryafterdingl

if you are getting a jolt or a shift that is not smooth check the fluid level.... if fluid is full then your solenoids that actually shift the transmission are worn and not moving correctly... the solenoids are located on the bottom of the trans in the pan... there a few thread regarding replacing mechatronic solenoids.... good luck.....o yea i have the same issue with the jolt when coming to a rolling stop and re-accelerating and then again between 5th and 6th