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swirl flap removal

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Old 01-25-2011, 10:37 AM
  #11  
AJH
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Originally Posted by 530dE60
DPF block was around 55k miles. Considering mine was relatively low mileage, perhaps I too should have just invested in a new manifold.

Flaps on a brand new manifold are much less likely to fail though not totally fail safe.

By getting a new manifold, I guess you'll significantly reduce swirl flap failure risk and also keep your car in an original state.
You dont need to buy a new manifold, just buy the swirl flaps.
Old 01-25-2011, 11:25 AM
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I understand the F10 doesn't have swirl flaps. If they are such a great thing I wonder why BMW have stopped using them. You can't assume the designers got everything right. Look at the Nikasil block issue where BMW made 100,000's of cars with duff engines and the recent fragile wheel issues. Car are designed by people and what seems like a good idea at design time doesn't always pan out.

Deep in the menus is DIS you can request a forced regen and check when one was last done - I can't remember the exact path sorry.

If your thermostats were bad your car probably couldn't reach the criteria for a regen so you had some soot to burn off.

The DPF is a service item and is expected to be replaced, depending on the use the car gets this can happen early. Especially as the "standard" BMW driving profile is high mileage long journeys and under 7k miles a year is considered "extreme use".

I think swirl flap failure is rare, but if it happens to you you'll know about it! I'd rather not have the risk and if the DPF soots up earlier then I'll service it earlier - but I doubt it will.
Old 01-25-2011, 07:34 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by JasonH
I understand the F10 doesn't have swirl flaps. If they are such a great thing I wonder why BMW have stopped using them. You can't assume the designers got everything right. Look at the Nikasil block issue where BMW made 100,000's of cars with duff engines and the recent fragile wheel issues. Car are designed by people and what seems like a good idea at design time doesn't always pan out.
I think you will find the above problem with the coating was from a supplier, and not caused by BMW directly, however as far as I was aware all engines got covered for bore wear via BMW foc at the time, the f10 engine like everything else things move on, emissions change, the internal design has changed on the f10, does not mean the swirl flaps where a failure, as they done their job at the time, causing the air to swirl and tumble, just means they have found a better way of doing it starting from scratch, this happens in all manufacturing, does not mean it was wrong, was correct for that time and engine design.

BMW noticed a design fault and the original design was changed in late 2004 I think, since then failures have sprung up but when you put it into perspective vs amount of cars produced then it's a very small % persons have a choice 1)have a warranty 2)change the manifold at the dealer 3) bodge it by fitting blanking plates, with no R&D and performed outside the dealer network, may not only have long term concerns but may also invalidate your insurance, it's down to the owner but no amount of scaremongering on forums or websites will sway my judgment.
Old 01-26-2011, 08:48 AM
  #14  
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well ive just returned from the dealers with my new manifold,,and the swirl flaps are attached with two small screws!
i got the impression that there wouldnt be any ,just a solid plastic one piece swirl flap
anyhow fitting it on saturday with any luck
Old 01-26-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by honblade884
well ive just returned from the dealers with my new manifold,,and the swirl flaps are attached with two small screws!
i got the impression that there wouldnt be any ,just a solid plastic one piece swirl flap
anyhow fitting it on saturday with any luck
And it's not even plastic, but covered in rubber.
Good luck with the new manifold.

- Antti -
Old 01-26-2011, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Anzafin
And it's not even plastic, but covered in rubber.
Good luck with the new manifold.

- Antti -
thanks Antti,,,been following your excellent manifold removal thread,,its all clear in my head now thanks to your photos
i dont know any torque values for tightening the manifold bolts,,,but ill work out how tight they are on when i remove them with my torque wrench
thanks again,cheers
Old 01-26-2011, 10:54 AM
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If I remember it right, they are 10Nm and 15Nm, but I don't remember which were which...
Just tighten them evenly.
Old 01-26-2011, 11:26 AM
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I used to be a volvo truck mechanic back in the day. The only time we used a torque wrench was for the cylinder head and inner engine components. You can tell how tight things need to be by feel most of the time. Cmon guys
Old 01-26-2011, 11:27 AM
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I used to be a volvo truck mechanic back in the day. The only time we used a torque wrench was for the cylinder head and inner engine components. You can tell how tight things need to be by feel most of the time. Cmon guys
Old 01-26-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AJH
I used to be a volvo truck mechanic back in the day. The only time we used a torque wrench was for the cylinder head and inner engine components. You can tell how tight things need to be by feel most of the time. Cmon guys
So you're saying you used to be a mechanic...


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