zgilbert

I had mine replaced by an indy.... But had to take it back. They did not replace the manifold gaskets, and the car had a surge and stall issue because of that.... (un-metered air)

I had the same symptoms as you, but mine died in Target parking lot.. No click, no nothing.
But if I opened the hood, and had someone press start, I could hear the relay click(not solenoid). It's a very faint sound, but at least it told me that the starter had power being sent to it.

Anyway, here is some advice. Clean your throttle body while everything is apart. You're already there, and it will have some gunk in it. Your car will smile.

E60I

Thank you for the advice, sir.

Mine died 13 miles from home. After AAA's coverage, I had to pay $54 ($9 per mile) out of pocket from one of those big tow trucks with the bed(?).

What do you use to clean the throttle body?

E60I

Yeah, I did another search from this forum and another member had the same symptom.

Thanks for the good luck, I will need it.

Ordered $130 worth of tools from Harbor Freight last night and waiting for FedEx.

zgilbert

I used brakleen. Brake/Parts cleaner. Clean everything as good as you can. You might want to clean the drivers side of the motor before you start the job(if possible). Just makes the job easier.
It's imperative to make sure that all parts are seated properly. If they aren't, your car will stutter when you start it up, and you'll get a check engine light.

As for my tow, it was $60 to the indy. I had gone to target to get some double sided tape, and was promptly leaving to go to the Bahamas on my boat. Or so I thought. I came out with the tape, and the car wouldn't start.
It took 2hrs to get the car towed. An hour wait for the truck. The tow guy couldn't figure out how to get my car out of park(nor could I, the trans is electronic). So we couldn't put it on the flatbed. We had to wait for someone to come out of target, and move thier car in order to get my car hooked up to the tow trucks wheel lift.

To top it off, Target is 8 blocks from my house!

E60I

Guys,

Thanks for all your advice! I don't think I can deal with the new challenge alone.

Can someone please confirm which torx bit I need to unfasten the tension strut. T40 is a bit small and T50 is a bit big. Is the correct size T45 or is there another size? Are the tension strut fasteners reusable?

Do I need to remove the fuel rail in order remove the intake manifold? I understand I will need to get new sealing O-rings for the six fuel injectors if I have to remove the fuel rail.

Thanks!

pcy

There is a T45 size torx bit. Try that.

You don't need to remove the fuel rail to remove the intake manifold, you can work around it.

zgilbert

You won't need to remove the fuel rail. Below is a pic of my motor while doing the valve cover gasket replacement. If it shows up well enough, you'll notice that the fuel rail is completely separate of the intake manifold.

E60I

Thanks, Pcy!

It looks like the struts need to be removed in order to lift up the intake manifold to disconnect all the other wires underneath it. Are you re-using your old strut fasteners or did you buy new ones?

I am getting everything ready before all parts are delivered to my house.

pcy

Are you referring to the two rods/braces from the top of each strut to the center of firewall? Yes, I removed the those braces and I reused those bolts.

E60I

Yes, those are the ones. I read somewhere that they are supposed to be discarded and replaced.

Where did you buy your parts? I have to call Bavarian Autosport to cancel my order today. They sent me an email last night, stating that all the parts I needed are out of stock and can be shipped in one to two weeks. That's too long for me.

Regarding to the oil separator, did you replace the vent hose or did you just replaced the other two hoses?

From my research, https://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/sho...ngMethodid_0=0
seems to have the best prices.

Thanks!