I wonder if it's worthwhile to swap injector #4 with any other injector and see if the problem 'migrates' to the new cylinder. If it does, then we know for sure the injector is the problem.

I don't think this problem is related to starter replacement.

 

I don't think the starter replacement was related either. Let's hope all the problems are just coincidental due to the age and mileage of the car!

After all, the SES for misfire cylinder #4 has been going on for over six months (before the starter problem). Retrospectively, it did not affect the performance of my car engine like it has now. I thought the SES went on "at cold start only" because the three wires that connect to the plug that goes to the ignition coil harness was not 100% insulated and repaired.

Anyways, based on the warnings I have been getting during the last six months, let's hope fuel injector #4 is bad.

Maybe tomorrow, I will use a screw driver and tap on the metal part of that injector to see it that would fix the problem.

 

What was the outcome? Is your E60 running well, again?

 

Hi Latitude39,

Hope all is well with you!

Yes, the car is running well again. :-)

I ended up replacing the following parts:

1. New MAF sensor
2. New BMW OEM fuel injector for #4
3. Another new set of intake manifold and throttle body gaskets.
4. Two helicoil inserts!!! I stripped the threads for two of the bolts because I opened the intake manifold at least four times. lol

At the end, the problem went away because I used a better digital torque wrench to tighten the screws and bolts for the intake manifold and throttle body.

Thanks for your help! :-)

 

E60I,
I'm happy for your success. Thanks for the update.

I'm going to remove my intake manifold, patching up oil leaks, replace starter, etc. Reading your posts have been very useful to me.

I've started a thread to track my progress. I've got the parts and I'm reading procedures, trying to reconcile conflicting torque specifications at the Valvetronic motor (10Nm or 4Nm)--Bentley provides both those numbers on different pages (113-14 and 131-15). As you have proven yourself, a good torque wrench and correct torque specs. are important!

 

Hi Latitude39,

Good luck and wish you better journeys ahead.

For the sake of precautionary, before you unscrew those screws , why don't you tighten one with a torque wrench at 10 Nm or bit less in variance? If it does not click right away, then stick with 4Nm. I 'd hate to see you strip those threads before me. ;-)

As for the three related hoses to the oil separator, the hose that goes to oil pain goes in first! When you put it on , go s..l..o..w..l..y with both ears open. It will feel better than sex if you can hear it CLICK!!! You really don't want to worry about whether it will leak, because it will be a pain in the @33 if you have to take the intake manifold apart again and get another set of new intake manifold gaskets!!!

When you put the screws and bolts on for the intake manifold, start from the center and going outward. Do it s...l..o..w...l..y and start with 1 less Nm from what the specified torque spec is and work your way up.

There are two DISAs connected to the intake manifold, don't forget to open and clean DISA #3 (inner and under the intake manifold, facing the outer DISA) while you are at it!!!

 

I've already replaced the outer DISA because its shaft had become disconnected from the flap. That's good advice to open the inner DISA. You call it #3 but there are only 2. I'll inspect it before putting the the manifold back on. I have a dealer close by just in case the inner DISA ist kaput!

Thanks for your advice. Nice to hear from someone who's been in there.