Oil Change Catastrophe
06-07-2009, 04:46 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by craigm1841' post='903641' date='Jun 7 2009, 08:43 PM
i um... would probably avoid welding anything on the oil pan. you could take another hex, slightly larger then strip, put a little locktite on there and hammer it in. wait a little while then unscrew it. i reccomend going to sears and getting a cheap hex bit/socket that you can attatch to a socket wrench. those L shaped Hex drivers are bad news and will get you anytime you are trying to unscrew something that it tight.
06-07-2009, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by craigm1841' post='903641' date='Jun 7 2009, 05:43 PM
i um... would probably avoid welding anything on the oil pan. you could take another hex, slightly larger then strip, put a little locktite on there and hammer it in. wait a little while then unscrew it. i reccomend going to sears and getting a cheap hex bit/socket that you can attatch to a socket wrench. those L shaped Hex drivers are bad news and will get you anytime you are trying to unscrew something that it tight.
06-07-2009, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bmdub' post='903668' date='Jun 7 2009, 09:23 PM
I'm pretty sure he suggested welding or brazing to the drain plug screw and not the oil pan itself. Loctite isn't going to help at all. If I had to go with an adhesive, a two part epoxy is going to have much higher shear strength than loctite.
06-07-2009, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by craigm1841' post='903676' date='Jun 7 2009, 08:34 PM
Motor Oil Ignites at approximately 500 degrees. A typical arc welder creates flames that are about 5600 degrees. you dont have to be a rocket scientist to figure this one out
also, the bolt should be a allen. they dont strip that easy, unless it was messed up from before.
06-07-2009, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by turboawd' post='903774' date='Jun 7 2009, 11:13 PM
you'd use a tig or mig welder, and you would just do many short bursts of weld. then the metal wont get that hot. use a wet rag to cool the bolt between welds. actually the oil will absorb the heat also.
also, the bolt should be a allen. they dont strip that easy, unless it was messed up from before.
also, the bolt should be a allen. they dont strip that easy, unless it was messed up from before.
you always want to use one of these:
the second picture is for heavier jobs.
about the welding, i was just saying it was completely over-the-top and could pose a safety issue. just get a hex socket slightly bigger then the current stripped hole and hammer it in. use locktite, dont use locktite, use glue, dont use glue. doesnt matter actually, just pound it in there.
i am telling you this because I HAVE EXPERIENCE with this. i am not making up some stupid way of doing something. i am providing a VERY SIMPLE fix. just make sure you have the replacement drain plug.
EVEN if the welding idea is a good idea, how many people have a tig welder at home. come one people, lets excersise common sense when providing someone with an answer.
06-07-2009, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by craigm1841' post='903790' date='Jun 7 2009, 11:27 PM
allen/hex will strip easy using one of these:
you always want to use one of these:
the second picture is for heavier jobs.
about the welding, i was just saying it was completely over-the-top and could pose a safety issue. just get a hex socket slightly bigger then the current stripped hole and hammer it in. use locktite, dont use locktite, use glue, dont use glue. doesnt matter actually, just pound it in there.
i am telling you this because I HAVE EXPERIENCE with this. i am not making up some stupid way of doing something. i am providing a VERY SIMPLE fix. just make sure you have the replacement drain plug.
EVEN if the welding idea is a good idea, how many people have a tig welder at home. come one people, lets excersise common sense when providing someone with an answer.
you always want to use one of these:
the second picture is for heavier jobs.
about the welding, i was just saying it was completely over-the-top and could pose a safety issue. just get a hex socket slightly bigger then the current stripped hole and hammer it in. use locktite, dont use locktite, use glue, dont use glue. doesnt matter actually, just pound it in there.
i am telling you this because I HAVE EXPERIENCE with this. i am not making up some stupid way of doing something. i am providing a VERY SIMPLE fix. just make sure you have the replacement drain plug.
EVEN if the welding idea is a good idea, how many people have a tig welder at home. come one people, lets excersise common sense when providing someone with an answer.
06-07-2009, 07:57 PM
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My Ride: 2007 530i. Purchased 6/28/07. Titanium Silver Metallic, Black Dakota Leather, Dark Poplar Trim, Steptronic, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Bluetooth, Adaptive Control Xenons. 10/30/07 Added OEM 124s with 245/40/18 & 275/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires. Installed red Cal Covers� from BavAuto. 11/21/07 Added OEM all-weather floor mats (for winter, carpet in summer) and coat rack. 6/26/08 installed M5-style rear spoiler. 6/30/08 put on red reflectors. 8/22/08 Euro turn signal stickers applied. 3/20/09 Installed Shadowline Trim. 3/27/09 Added Matte Black Kidney Grilles from Trinity. 4/03/09 Installed Bimmian Shadow Matte Black 530i Badges. 4/04/09 Installed LED license plate lights from Trinity. 5/01/09 Installed Brabus Interior LED Kit and White Angel Eyes. 5/02/09 Put in Brabus 6K Fogs. 5/14/09 Removed charcoal filter. 5/15/09 Installed light smoke LED side marker lamps from Trinity. 5/21/09 Sprint Booster. 6/12/09 Painted exhaust tips flat black. 6/13/09 Pulled red Cal Covers and painted calipers low gloss black. 6/27/09 RPI Ram Air Scoop from Trinity. 8/15/09 Installed Brabus's silver invisibulbs front and rear. 9/24/09 Installed R-Dash license plate LEDs from Brabaus (John).
Give this guy a call and for $20 he'll come and do it with his vice-like fingers.
06-07-2009, 08:27 PM
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nice. Should have called him first.